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XR650L-Dirt conversion

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Alright.....I am probably going to get flamed for wanting to do this..

 

I am helping a friend to get into some dirt riding. He has an XR650L 2005ish i believe.... The bike has siginificant sentimental value for reasons that arent important to get into on here, but point being, he doesnt want to get rid of this bike, and a different bike is not an option.

 

Has anyone done a dirt conversion on an L model? Maybe its not realistic, but curious if anyone has done it. I dont mean turn it into a full on woods weapon, but some weight shaving tips, a good gearing combo. etc. I

 

 

 

Thanks!

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Not sure what you're after.  This is what I would look at doing:

  • Good dirt tires.  Maybe still street legal like D606, MT21, or some better dirt-only tires
  • Lower gearing, typically with a larger rear sprocket and maybe 14-tooth front to replace the stock 15
  • Engine guard to protect it from rocks and stuff
  • Cycra guards over the levers, or some other good brand
  • Rim locks so you can run lower pressures without spinning a tire on the rim

You can do more with the engine if you want, including FCR carburetor, high compression piston, cam, head work, oil cooler.

 

Look at what Brian Hare has done to his bike, or Thumper3.  Losing a bit of weight can help.

 

 

I've gone with the best compromise of dirt and street on mine because most of the miles will still be street miles and I ride to whatever dirt I want to ride on.  But I have the tires and sprockets and hand guards done, plus a bigger tank so I can go further.  That meets my needs.

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nx650 2nd gear

15/52 sprockets

xr600r chain guide

xr400 oil cooler

metzeler uni-cross tires

fcrmx carb from 2006 crf250r

highwaydirtbikes.com products

heat demon grip heaters

fmf hi-flo head pipe and q4 muffler

 

if you have any money left xr's only big fin head kit.

 

I have a 10.5:1 piston, but I would recommend stock or close to stock compression.

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Dirt only you can just gear it down to death- 13/48 sprockets.

Really, there is very little that 13/48 makes easier than 14/48, there is a little REALLY gnarly stuff in CT that 13/48 was needed for, and that only because I was running a large rear tire.

Knobbies are cheaper than DOT.

Stiffer front springs actually help a lot.

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suspension and tires i say are gonna make it plenty fine for dirt.

 

What is bike like now?? i mean it is a dirt bike really stock....

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I have a 10.5:1 piston, but I would recommend stock or close to stock compression.

I'm curious about this.  Did you have some drawbacks with the higher compression?

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USD fork from any CRF makes a big difference, especially if you want to go on mx track with it to improve or develop some skills

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Alright.....I am probably going to get flamed for wanting to do this..

 

I am helping a friend to get into some dirt riding. He has an XR650L 2005ish i believe.... The bike has siginificant sentimental value for reasons that arent important to get into on here, but point being, he doesnt want to get rid of this bike, and a different bike is not an option.

 

Has anyone done a dirt conversion on an L model? Maybe its not realistic, but curious if anyone has done it. I dont mean turn it into a full on woods weapon, but some weight shaving tips, a good gearing combo. etc. I

 

 

 

Thanks!

Put the bike on a serious pig diet. If its not needed, ditch it. Change out what is left like the tank, speedo, headlight assembly etc, etc, etc with lighter aftermarket parts from front to back. Like the saying goes " less weight = less wait".Change the gearing to 14/48. Get the carb jetted right. Get rid of the smog crap. Do the snorkel mod. Put on half decent dirt tires. All this changes the characteristics of the pig in a big way. Handles better, accelerates harder, stops sooner. Changes imo what was a boring ride in the woods stock ,to an actual blast and a pretty good overall reliable beast that can go just about anywhere with in reason. If i would have left mine basically stock like when i first bought it, i would have grown tired of it along time ago. I can honestly say i am still happy with it going into my 3rd year as a pig owner. The thing is as damm reliable as my alarm clock!

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My hands freeze in the winter.  Especially when the get wet.  I have become a firm believer in grip heaters. 

 

Both of my 650L's have 10:5 to 1 wiseco pistons, and both crank over really slow below 30 degrees.  The power increase was not worth the slow cranking.  Both bikes have same condition.  The more offroad 650L has been upgraded to a ytx14 battery.  But I would rather be able to use the stock battery instead. 

 

Smog block-off is a great idea too.  I have since had aluminum rods welded in the head and cylinder emissions ports. I smoothed the exhaust ports where the aluminum stuck inward.

Edited by HMFL

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Definitely a diet! Shave as much crap as possible. I ditched elephant ears, smog, swapped front and rear fenders with cycra crf450 fenders. Larger rear sprocket helps bridge the gap between 1st n 2nd. Bars and bar risers, daves mods, good tires, its all in what you want the bike to do. I just rode with 40 miles of trails on friday with mine son tagged along with his xr100. End of day I was beat. She is a big pig and will beat you down hard after a long day hitting the trails but hey pain is weakness leaving the body. My kid was good to go next day I felt like I went 10 rounds with mike tyson. I should have made his ass go to school instead of letting him skip to go riding with me.

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Definitely a diet! Shave as much crap as possible. I ditched elephant ears, smog, swapped front and rear fenders with cycra crf450 fenders. Larger rear sprocket helps bridge the gap between 1st n 2nd. Bars and bar risers, daves mods, good tires, its all in what you want the bike to do. I just rode with 40 miles of trails on friday with mine son tagged along with his xr100. End of day I was beat. She is a big pig and will beat you down hard after a long day hitting the trails but hey pain is weakness leaving the body. My kid was good to go next day I felt like I went 10 rounds with mike tyson. I should have made his ass go to school instead of letting him skip to go riding with me.

I totally agree! From what i have read, if you go with a bigger high compression piston, cam and porting you might pick up 3hp on the pig. On the other hand for every 10 lbs you shave off the bike it is the equivalent to picking up 1hp. I ditched 32 lbs or the equivalent of 3.2hp. It definately is more snappy. Imo its alot easier and probally cheaper to shed weight than to open up the engine, plus you get a bike thats easier to flick around, handle better ect. :thumbsup:

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Its a great trailbike, it goes over everything like a tank. I would say,

 

larger rear sprocket

skid plate

bark busters

daves mods or xr600r carb (after talking to fred hink in moab about this I think he is right in that you don't need a pumper carb)

aftermarket exhaust or pull the cleaning plate off the stock exhaust

smaller tail light

handle bar risers

new handlebars

plastic tank

add a kick start

good DOT knobbie (d606 comes to mind, remember, its a trail bike not a racer, it never will be a racer)

beefier foot pegs

Adjust the sag on your suspension, again talking to fred hink, he says the stock suspension is pretty good if you just adjust it to your weight, again, its a trail bike not a racer

save as much weight as possible, pull off the following

    turn signals

    rear brake light switch

    front reflectors

    rear fender support frame

    smog equipment

    battery box (use shorai battery mod)

    passenger pegs

    seat strap

    kick stand switch

    mirrors

Edited by officialhopsof

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"Daves mods or xr600r carb ( after talking to fred hink in moab about this i think he is right in that you dont  need a pumper carb)"

.........I guess until you try a pumper carb you really cant say for sure. However, im guessing from what most are saying once they made the swap, it was well worth it. I tried a set on a street bike and they do indeed make a difference.This will be my next mod im trying. I doubt very much that i will be dissapointed. With that said, i would like to say that i have heard a lot of bad comments on the dynojet kit. That it does not come with a pilot jet and that even if you go with a bigger pilot jet its hard to get great results out of the kit. I think the main thing about the dynojet kit is that its critical to get the needle adjusted on the right clip for optimum results. When i got my xr it had the full xr's only header and muffler on it with the dynojet kit installed with the adjustable fuel mixture( tab ground off). It seemed that i was messing with the fuel mixture screw on a weekly basis to get it to run good due to changing outside temperatures.

........Then i tried raising the needle a notch and it made all the difference in the world. That was last year. i have not had to touch the fuel mixture screw since then, and it still has the stock pilot jet in it. Does not matter if it is below freezing out side or if its 90f, the bike runs flawlessly without a hiccupp. Pulls hard and clean off idle to redline. starts easy cold or hot. That one small adjustment on the needle was all that it took. Runs so good that when i get a pumper carb i plan on holding onto the stock carb. I will not be selling it.

Edited by Thumper3

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If you use the xr600r carb, you need the intake and air box tube.  But if you are keeping a non pumper you are better off staying with cv carb with dave mods.  The electric start is reliable, period.  If you are unsure, get an anti-gravity micro start to carry as a spare battery.  But most people never would use a kick start, if they had one.

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