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I just took this video last weekend. It was shot with a Hero3 silver mounted in just the fame so to capture more sound. I do not like the waterproof protective housing as it muffles the sound to the point you can hardly hear the bike .... anyway this should give you an idea of how quiet it is when going slow and how loud it barks when you crank on it .... I posted this in the 305 thread but just in case you have not seen it .... here it is ...   :cheers:

 

Gnath. What bar riser are you using? can you throw me a link to the product??

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Gnath. What bar riser are you using? can you throw me a link to the product??

 

Rox 2 inch risers from CRF'sOnly 

Highway Dirt Bikes ultimate hand guards with mirrors in black and I also bought my ProTaper Contour 1 & 1/8 fat bars from them pre-drilled ... standard top plate 106mm 

But you can upgrade to ones that have places for switches and/or power points etc .... 

 

http://goo.gl/20QEYR

Edited by gnath9
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I'm thinking of putting some risers on my stock bars.. I also know I will end up putting on new bars. For aftermarket bars do most go with the same thickness or fatter bars?

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I recently just put on Pro Taper Contour Windham bend fat bars and I can not tell you how much I like it better than stock. I feel like I have more control over the bike. This also comes from the fact that I am a bigger guy and those smaller bars did not go good with my hands. But overall i would definitely go with fat bars!

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Do all the controls and stock bits bolt on to fat bars or did you need some random adapters?

You need adaptor/risers to upgrade to fat bars ... and you will need to drill the new bars or remove the locating pins from your controls

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I also say fat bars, I mostly just think they look better with no crossbar haha!  The fat bars are a lot stronger than the stock bars also.  All your controls will bolt right up to the fat bars, the only part that needs adapted is how the bars mount to the bike.  With "fat bars" the part in the middle where the bars mount to the bike, are 1-1/8", but on each end where your controls and grips are, is still 7/8" like stock bars.  So all your controls still fit the same way.  Like gnath said, other than adapting the fat bar to the stock mounts, the only other modification is to either drill the new bars to fit the locator pins in the stock controls, or remove the locator pins.  I went for option B and removed the pins.  Personally I decided that trying to line the controls up where I "thought" they needed to be and then drilling holes in my nice new bars was more of a pain in the ass than just removing the pins and being able to line the controls up and then adjust them to where ever you want.  The only problem here is they dont fit tight enough and without the locator pins they can move on the bars.  I just put a wrap of electrical tape on the bars where the controls with the pins mount and then cut the tape flush with the controls on each side so it dosnt stick out and you dont even know its there once the control is mounted up.

 

I ended up going with ProTaper Contour bars in the CR Mid bend.  I also got 2" Rox Risers like Gnath and some others have done.  At first I didnt want the Rox risers, I didnt think I wanted that much rise, and part of me didnt like an additional pivot point for the bars to potentially move on.  But I eventually talked myself into the Rox for a few different reasons.  Someday down the road Id like to get a Scotts damper and mount it like Gnath and Headbanger have, they also make it easy to mount fat bars and Highway Dirt Bike handguards.  Now that its all said and done I like the rise I ended up with.  It makes stand up riding feel much better.  Im only 5'8 but stand up riding with the stock bars just didnt feel good, felt like an awkward position.  Also with the Rox you could get them now and mount your stock 7/8s bars to them, then at a later date you can upgrade to fat bars and they will also mount to the Rox.

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Do all the controls and stock bits bolt on to fat bars or did you need some random adapters?

I had no problem mounting my controls/ switches. I had to do no drilling and no adaptors 

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Makes sense. I didn't realize the fat bars went down to 7/8 on the ends. That makes it easy. I'm 6'1" so risers will be nice when standing. Is here any real purpose to the adapters that pivot or push the bars back rather than just up? I also will get getting a larger fuel tank eventually so I want to make sure they don't interfere

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I have the no namer special 1 1/8" risers for the 7/8 bars right now. I tilted the bar more forward than I normally do because the riser block comes at me at a 15 degree'ish angle. At 5'9" this is good, though I will be upgrading to the Rox Risers. I too want to eliminate the cross bar and have more open space plus the HDB guards.  What's nice though is how the Rox risers will work with both sizes of bars.

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I just did the 30mm tusk risers for now. Hard to beat for $20. Very happy with the mod so far

http://www.crfadventures.com/crf250l-modifications/tusk-30mm-handle-bar-riser-install-crf250l.html

Quick and easy to install. Comfy when sitting and much better when standing. May do rox if i do far bars later but I'm happy for now

 

I did the same thing --make a big difference standing :thumbsup::ride:

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So a week after installing my 2" risers my bike decides to wheelie up a rock face and land not quite as gracefully as one would like... so needless to say i tweaked my handlebars..  So should i get another set of cheap stock ones or upgrade to aftermarket?  Fat bars could be nice but then i need new risers and bush bar clamps.. Alternatively i do 7/8" aftermarket..but is it worth it?

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So a week after installing my 2" risers my bike decides to wheelie up a rock face and land not quite as gracefully as one would like... so needless to say i tweaked my handlebars..  So should i get another set of cheap stock ones or upgrade to aftermarket?  Fat bars could be nice but then i need new risers and bush bar clamps.. Alternatively i do 7/8" aftermarket..but is it worth it?

 

There really is a lot to bars than just looks and/or price.  The stock bars on most bikes are terrible to say the least ....  :rant: The Fat bats in theory should be stronger but who knows  ... and all crashes are different ... :facepalm:  It is up to you to decide if it is worth spend the money changing your risers and clamps for your guards.

 

here are a couple of 7/8's bars I happen to like ...  :ride:

 

Renthal bars are made from a special aluminum alloy exclusively made for Renthal to be made into motorcycle handlebars. This alloy offers incredible strength, reduces vibration and has the perfect amount of flex that cushions the rider from sharp impacts

- All Renthal bars come with a shinny crossbar pad. Special edition bars feature a unique triple anodizing finish for a distinctive appearance

 

 

http://goo.gl/UmO1R2

 

48-552.jpg

I have ProTaper 1 1/8 Contours on my bike and I like them a lot

 

http://goo.gl/BqStEk

 

Known for their oversized bars, Pro Taper also happens to make a great 7/8” bar with crossbar. Strong and with just enough flex, these bars can be seen on supercross, motocross and enduro race bikes. And like every Pro Taper bar, the SE 7/8” bars are available in bends to suit every size bike and style of riding.

  • Pro Taper's high-strength AS20™ aerospace aluminum alloy SE Series Handlebar is rated at 70, 000 psi for ultimate strength
  • Laser etched bar trimming marks if you need to make them narrower
  • Laser etched positioning guides and logos
  • Knurled clutch side for improved grip hold
  • Shot peened finish to increase fatigue life
  • Full 5mm wall thickness for maximum strength
  • Cold-forged crossbar
  • Stainless hardware
  • 1/4" cut guides to accurately reduce bar width
  • Includes high-density foam pad

 

 

0000-pro-taper-se-series-7-8-standard-ha

Edited by gnath9

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And I have a noname $30 fatbar which probably comes from the same factory line as the "big names"..... special alloy my  :p

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Alternatively. How hard is it to just bend the stock ones back?

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Alternatively. How hard is it to just bend the stock ones back?

 

Not hard at all ... I used to do it all the time back in the day .... just remove your controls and slide a pipe that can get over the grip and preferably 3 to 4 feet long. All you need is a little leverage ...  :thumbsup:  and the stock bars should be fairly easy to bend back.

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