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I own a 2013 kx250f, and have chosen to buy and install Goldvalves, rebound separator nut for the shock, and changing the front spring. My weight is 75kg (165Lb), height 6 foot, and I'm a top C low B grade rider. I have a few questions:

 

1. How hard is it to install?

2. What special tools will I need?

3. I believe that Race Tech supply suggestions to valve stacks but how do I choose which one I want? and how can I fine tune it later?

 

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks, Dan. 

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It really depends on your knowledge of the inner workings of the fork.

It's pretty easy IMHO, """Properly"""grinding the peening off the nuts is probably the most difficult part, that is once your inside.

I hope you plan to adress the rebound and mid valve whle your in there.

The other issue with the RT stuff is (again IMHO) the chart can be hit or miss for some riders, you could end up with a fork that is worse than what you currently have if not done right.

Most bikes I have owned and revalved, it took several attemps to zero in on a good setting, it's rare that you get it in one crack..just fyi

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Thanks, yeah I'm going to be doing the rebound and mid-valve. 

 

So there isn't really any way to know what the best valve stack is gonna be until I test it. For your best stack was it one that race tech provided or did you make your own?

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Thanks, yeah I'm going to be doing the rebound and mid-valve. 

 

So there isn't really any way to know what the best valve stack is gonna be until I test it. For your best stack was it one that race tech provided or did you make your own?

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Thanks, yeah I'm going to be doing the rebound and mid-valve. 

 

So there isn't really any way to know what the best valve stack is gonna be until I test it. For your best stack was it one that race tech provided or did you make your own?

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I own a 2013 kx250f, and have chosen to buy and install Goldvalves, rebound separator nut for the shock, and changing the front spring. My weight is 75kg (165Lb), height 6 foot, and I'm a top C low B grade rider. I have a few questions:

 

1. How hard is it to install?

2. What special tools will I need?

3. I believe that Race Tech supply suggestions to valve stacks but how do I choose which one I want? and how can I fine tune it later?

 

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks, Dan.

I have Race Tech items in two of my bikes. Rebound Seperator Nut, Emulators and a Gold valve. Used my Dremel tool to remove peening from shock to intall Rebound Seperator Nut. Have a nitrogen tank to save money and time.

They performed very well and all the instrutions with plenty of extra shims to go where you want to go on the shock. Agree you will be doing testing at the riding area. With the chart they gave you in the kit you will understand where you want to go on the shock after you ride the bike and compare to the chart. Bring your mechanical skill and have fun with the experience.

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Thanks, yeah I'm going to be doing the rebound and mid-valve. 

 

So there isn't really any way to know what the best valve stack is gonna be until I test it. For your best stack was it one that race tech provided or did you make your own?

I used RT for years, Now I can usually get away with shuffling shims on the stock pistons.

From what I remember the RT charts are on the stiff side of the scale, Expect to be in and out a few times to see what direction is making a positive change.

The good is your saving money with a DIY kit, the bad is you don't know what your doing...and I wouldn't either without a lot of testing.

I would call RT and get with a tech and beg for a good starting point maybe send beer and pizza to the shop...but I advise to get some help.

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Thanks, yeah I'm going to be doing the rebound and mid-valve. 

 

So there isn't really any way to know what the best valve stack is gonna be until I test it. For your best stack was it one that race tech provided or did you make your own?

 

Once you buy the kit, Racetech gives you a code to access their online valving tool.  You enter a few specifics about weight and type of riding and the valving system will tell you exactly what stack to use, how much oil, comp/reb settings, etc.  Worked well for my application, think I ended up changing one clicker and that was about it. 

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We'll I installed the RT base valve, rebound valve, shock gold valve and rebound separator nut after taking out the SPI stuff I had and it was way off. I rode the VCGP last weekend and could not get the bike to work for crap. The settings were way off that RT recommended. I'll give this set up some shim shuffling and see what happens. My SPI set up worked good but I figured I'd set up my back up suspension with RT.

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We'll I installed the RT base valve, rebound valve, shock gold valve and rebound separator nut after taking out the SPI stuff I had and it was way off. I rode the VCGP last weekend and could not get the bike to work for crap. The settings were way off that RT recommended. I'll give this set up some shim shuffling and see what happens. My SPI set up worked good but I figured I'd set up my back up suspension with RT.

That's the problem with the RT stuff, it's not just bolt on and go.

Post your stacks, see if we can help and lsit what problems your having.

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I'll post my bike and stacks this evening. As for the SPI set up I have it took me almost a year of shim shuffling to get it where it's at now. My other suspension came with the RT valves on the base and shock. I bought the rebound valve set up and then went online to get a set up from RT's database.

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I'll post my bike and stacks this evening. As for the SPI set up I have it took me almost a year of shim shuffling to get it where it's at now. My other suspension came with the RT valves on the base and shock. I bought the rebound valve set up and then went online to get a set up from RT's database.

. Did you get the set up for the base and shock from Racetech, or did you go with previous owners setup?
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