I finally bought a DRZ! But I'm mechanically inept.

[watsyurface]

I have a 2006 DRZ400sm. almost 6k miles

The following are the mods I'm aware of:

440 Athena Big Bore Kit

k&n air filter

3x3 air box mod

stainless lines

handlebar mods that I do not understand whatsoever

Edelbrock Carb

Muzzy exhaust 

 

As I said, I am mechanically inept. I can work on things as long as I have a proper tutorial, I can change my oil just fine. However since this is a used bike, I want to make sure everything is working well, but I'm not sure what I need to check. The FAQ seems to skip the super basic things. 

 

I have heard nothing but negative things about the Carb, but it seems to work fine. I plan on keeping in it until I can afford the fcr. Also, how do I check if the rear sprocket is the stock size? Previous owner mentioned something related to it but I didn't really understand. 

 

Any help is appreciated. And please teach my like I'm 5! Pictures would help a lot(or links to existing tutorials). Thanks!

[cowpie]

go get you a garbage can and chuck the k/n filter in it, then go buy a real filter .. thats step1 .. i'll let someone else continue with the rest heheh ..

[npm]

First off welcome to TT, the DRZ is a great every-mans bike and you will enjoy it.

 

To check the sprocket size all you have to do is count the teeth.  The stock size for the SM is 41 teeth. 

 

The Edelbrock carb gets a bad rap here because the people that have tried it have had trouble getting it jetted properly over the rpm range.  It's possible the PO finally figured out the jetting for it or that you haven't ridden enough DRZs to have a good feel for how a well tuned carb responds (no offense intended with that statement).

 

Post up a picture of the handlebars and likely somebody will tell you what the mods are.

 

Edit:  Was the PO a member of TT?  Did he mention anything about the "locktite" fixes?  Do you know the maintenance history from the PO? If the history is unknown it's likely time to change the coolant, check the chain and sprockets for wear, grease the wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, and headstock bearings, pull the screen in the oil line and clean it, check to see if it still has the automatic cam chain tensioner and if so possibly replace it with a manual cam chain tensioner, and the list goes on..............

 

Coming to this forum has been known to lead to severe cases of "moditis" which is known to crush wallets. 

Edited April 23, 2014 by npm

[Noble]

Now go the the garbage can and retrieve the K & N filter.  The K & N is fine for the SM model not used extensively in the dirt.  I am not a fan of the K & N, I prefer oiled foam. But the K&N is not such a bad product you need to throw it away.  Service it as needed, replace if you like or give it to some one that wants it.  Throw it away is over reaction.  My approach to any used motorcycle especially one 8 years old is to go over everything and service everyhting.

[fuentes52]

Now go the the garbage can and retrieve the K & N filter.  The K & N is fine for the SM model not used extensively in the dirt.  I am not a fan of the K & N, I prefer oiled foam. But the K&N is not such a bad product you need to throw it away.  Service it as needed, replace if you like or give it to some one that wants it.  Throw it away is over reaction.  My approach to any used motorcycle especially one 8 years old is to go over everything and service everyhting.

ive heard a myth, this may be true, that k & n air filters do not filter out fine dust particles?

[Noble]

The general non-scietific opinion is an oiled foam filter will filter out more fine dust than an oiled fabric (K&N) filter.  But is a matter of degree.  No filter gets all the dust.  How much better is foam than fabric?  I don't have a concise answer.  The other part of the story is the K&N will flow more air giving more power.  Again it is a mater of degree.  Is it more at all? If it is more is it significant?  Again I do not have a concise answer.  Since foam seems to be manufactures preference for dirt bikes and I have not seen proven significant power benefit with K&N, I simply ignore the whole issue and use foam where foam is OEM. Dry paper where dry paper is OEM, oiled paper where oiled paper is OEM and K&N where that is the best available fit for custom applications.

[Qqqqqqqqqqqq]

I use the K&N from time to time , I can't say it gives more power . It does seem to give a better throttle response .

[ohgood]

I use the K&N from time to time , I can't say it gives more power . It does seem to give a better throttle response .

 

you should buy one of those $99 SNAP things. ;-)

 

 

 

 

OP, you need to read the FAQ sections, understand them, and then find/phone a friend that IS mechanically inclined (experience with rebuilding engines themselves, alone) to help you do it. there are a LOT of small unknown tricks/faults for beginning mechanics that will cause a LOT of expense if not addressed early. 

 

your front and rear sprocket are easy to determine: either count the number of teeth on each, or look for the stamp that says "52" or "47" or "44" or whatever the tooth count is. it's usually covered in muck/mud/rust. then look on gearingcommander.com to determine if you want to change it. 

 

and hey, post pictures of the bike 

[Qqqqqqqqqqqq]

Nah , I made one .. Saved $99

[watsyurface]

Sorry this took so long, I left my bike at home to finish up my last two weeks of the school year. I had to get my dad to take pics. Here are the handlebars.

Also, the bike takes two-three tries to start up, even after warm. And sometimes the bike randomly shuts off at stoplights right when I pull the throttle, do you think it's the carbs?

And stupid question, where is the choke? My 250 had it on the handlebars so I don't even know where to look.

Thanks!

 

Edit: I'm not sure about maintenance other than he changed the oil every 1500. I plan on checking everything myself when I get back(and learn how).  

Edited April 25, 2014 by watsyurface

[bmwpowere36m3]

Sorry this took so long, I left my bike at home to finish up my last two weeks of the school year. I had to get my dad to take pics. Here are the handlebars.

Also, the bike takes two-three tries to start up, even after warm. And sometimes the bike randomly shuts off at stoplights right when I pull the throttle, do you think it's the carbs?

And stupid question, where is the choke? My 250 had it on the handlebars so I don't even know where to look.

Thanks!

 

Probably needs a carb cleaning, first.  Choke is on the carb itself, left-side near petcock.