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Stator Bolts backed out, what to do?

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Hi guys, 

 

I've got a problem with my DRZ. My stator bolts backed out, and one came out completely and did damage to my flywheel and ate my stator ofcourse.

I'm pretty surprised because I've had the flywheel bolts shear and destroy my previous stator about 1000miles ago, so everything is pretty new.

When I installed the new flywheel I applied loctite, and torqued the bolts correctly.

 

For some reason now all of the bolts are still tight, except for the 3 bolts that hold the stator in place. 2 where loose and almost came out, and 1 came out partially, broke off and did damage.

 

Why did this happen? Where the bolts worn out? The stator was a cheap chinese one, which worked fine and I don't think it has anything to do with the stator. Am I just a terrible mechanic  :cry:

 

Now I'm going to order a new cheapo stator, and replace the bolts. 

 

I have 4 more questions:

1 Can i still use the flywheel, its scratched up pretty bad, is it still balanced? I have another flywheel with a little less damage that I could also install...but prefer not to unless necessary.

2 Should I use stronger loctite?

3 Can I still use the crankcase cover? The threads are still good, but where the bolt backed out there is slight damage as can be seen in the picture.

4 How can I flush my engine good so no crap is left? I just had head work done, and installed a bb kit and really don't want to damage these...

 

 

Would really appreciate some answers!

 

Thanks alot in advance!

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2014-04-23 15.29.08.jpg

Edited by Tappie

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I may be new to the DRz, but I am not new to motorcycling.  Seeing how you have done extensive mods to the engine already, I would lean towards replacing anything that looks damaged.  I would probably take the right side cover off, and try to flush a safe solvent through the engine to take out any filings, but a more knowledgable DRz mechanic would be better to advise you.  I know I would want to flush it out somehow. 

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1 Can i still use the flywheel, its scratched up pretty bad, is it still balanced?--------Looks OK in the picture


2 Should I use stronger loctite?------Yes


3 Can I still use the crankcase cover?------Looks OK in the picture.  Remove any raised metal where the stator seats on the cover.


4 How can I flush my engine good so no crap is left?-----Most of the debris will be around the flywheel.  Solvent clean that, change the oil and filter a few times.


 


 


Use a bottom tap to chase the threads in the cover.  Custom fit bolts to use all of the available threads.  Use 12.9 grade bolds.  Tighten and loosen the bolts several times to compress and seat the laminations.  Then add Loctite and tighten as firmly as you can with a 4mm Allen wrench.

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For some reason now all of the bolts are still tight, except for the 3 bolts that hold the flywheel in place. 2 where loose and almost came out, and 1 came out partially, broke off and did damage.

 

Flywheel bolts or stator?? pretty sure you mean stator screws.. 3 M5 socket head cap screws.. Yes?

 

Why did this happen? Where the bolts worn out? The stator was a cheap chinese one, which worked fine and I don't think it has anything to do with the stator. Am I just a terrible mechanic

  Notice how the stator body is made of layers? I believe many of the stators we use from off brands are not fully compressed as they are delivered.. So when installed they give the fasteners a false sense of being tightened... few miles of vibrations, heat cycles... and they loosen up, then you get what you found.

 

Now I'm going to order a new cheapo stator, and replace the bolts. 

 

 Ok, though I would suggest a Stator from Ricky stator.. whatever you use... consider doing this...

Get your self 3 M5 fasteners, 6 M5 washers and 3 M5 nuts.  Use them to "pre compress" the stator (squish the thing together).. then reverse them and install the cover using NEW 12.9 M5  x 26mm or so long socket cap screws of the correct length (long as will fit) make sure the threads in the cover and the screws are clean, oil free.. use a drop of high strength thread lock on each screw. Tighten to 120 inlb or so. Let thread lock cure 8 hours before putting bike into service. If there is any damage to the cover threads for the stator screws, consider installing Stainless Steel thread repair coils.

 

 

I have 4 more questions:

1 Can i still use the flywheel, its scratched up pretty bad, is it still balanced? I have another flywheel with a little less damage that I could also install...but prefer not to unless necessary.

 

Flywheel looks ok in the pic, just clean well. And if it were me, id replace the flywheel / starter gear fasteners with NEW 12.9 socket head cap screws... and use a drop of high strength on each.

 

2 Should I use stronger loctite?

See above

3 Can I still use the crankcase cover? The threads are still good, but where the bolt backed out there is slight damage as can be seen in the picture.

Looks ok, chase the threads, clean out crud,, degrease well.

4 How can I flush my engine good so no crap is left? I just had head work done, and installed a bb kit and really don't want to damage these...

You can back flush the case screen with solvent at good pressure..... Other than that, flush the case with diesel ,,and do a quick start up using cheap oil, and once warm fully, no leaks.. stop and drain the oil, change the filter.

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Thanks alot for the replies! Will follow your advice and precompress the new stator and install new screws of a higher grade. You're right that I meant the stator screws, not the flywheel ones, sorry about that. All of the threads seem okay and are smooth. 

Thanks!

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EM - I know for sure the stator bolts are not 6mm.  But aren't they 5mm not 4?  4mm Allen hex key to drive 5mm socket head bots, right?

 

I actually had the same comment about the lamination compression but for some reason TT kills my Safari half way thru an answer and I loose it all.

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Thanks alot for the replies! Will follow your advice and precompress the new stator and install new screws of a higher grade. You're right that I meant the stator screws, not the flywheel ones, sorry about that. All of the threads seem okay and are smooth. 

Thanks!

 

 

did you clean the tapped holes in the stator cover with brake cleaner and blow them out first ? 

i've seen similar problems when oil/debris is left in the bottom of tapped holes. it -looks- and -feels- like the bolt is torqued, but it's bottoming on end of the bolt... then boom

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EM - I know for sure the stator bolts are not 6mm.  But aren't they 5mm not 4?  4mm Allen hex key to drive 5mm socket head bots, right?

 

I actually had the same comment about the lamination compression but for some reason TT kills my Safari half way thru an answer and I loose it all.

Yes , M5 x 24.5 with a 4mm socket head cap .. Guess i was thinking M4 because that was the hex bit on my TQ Wrench while I was installing a stator as i was typ9ing the response..

 

Thanks for the catch. ...

 

Back to work on another DRZ I go...

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did you clean the tapped holes in the stator cover with brake cleaner and blow them out first ? 

i've seen similar problems when oil/debris is left in the bottom of tapped holes. it -looks- and -feels- like the bolt is torqued, but it's bottoming on end of the bolt... then boom

 Yes I did clean them out, and of course degreased them. Thanks for your reply though.

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Tappie...you get what you pay for. The only way to never go thru this again but still save $ is a ricks motorsport electrics stator. You can get it for 186.00 made in U.S.A. not Usa China (which is a real place that people get confused with on box labels). Loctite your stator bolts and you'll be good to go just make sure you fly wheel is ok.

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The Ricky Stator for the DRZ i1

 

Tappie...you get what you pay for. The only way to never go thru this again but still save $ is a ricks motorsport electrics stator. You can get it for 186.00 made in U.S.A. not Usa China (which is a real place that people get confused with on box labels). Loctite your stator bolts and you'll be good to go just make sure you fly wheel is ok.

The Ricky Stator for the DRZ is $150 retail

Or $142 through the TT store

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/Ricky-Stator-Suzuki-DRZ400-Stator-Assembly-RSDRZ400-p2006766630.html

 

The Customer service pre and post sale you get with that purchase far and away surpasses what little you might pay extra over a unknown brand, quality no customer serve ebay deal you find. 

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Ricks motorsport sport electrics is here in America and offers great customer service and quality product. I do not support anything chineese made even the food everything is cheap and low quality from chicken broccoli and rice to nuts bolts and stators. Not to mention im I'm trying to avoid my grandkids speaking chineese one day. Read testimonials on ricks motorsport and you will find the extra 36$ is well worth it.

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The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the sweet taste of a low price.

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Ricks stator cost $75 more than a known quality product from Ricky Stator....

 Ricks stator claim "This higher output stator will provide approximately 15-20% more power than the stock piece."  

 

I really want to see the O Scope read out (screen shot please) that shows the wattage output at normal operating temp when running IN A DRZ MOTOR, not on a bench, not with a test flywheel and at what RPM this wattage is produced,  as well as the voltage produced at 5k RPM.

 

 

​ I truly hope Im wrong with my assumption and Ricks stator has been able to produce a stator that produces 230 to 240 watts or more at normal operating running motor temp, as tested in a actual DRZ motor.  :thumbsup:

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Ricks stator cost $75 more than a known quality product from Ricky Stator....

 Ricks stator claim "This higher output stator will provide approximately 15-20% more power than the stock piece."  

 

I really want to see the O Scope read out (screen shot please) that shows the wattage output at normal operating temp when running IN A DRZ MOTOR, not on a bench, not with a test flywheel and at what RPM this wattage is produced,  as well as the voltage produced at 5k RPM.

 

 

​ I truly hope Im wrong with my assumption and Ricks stator has been able to produce a stator that produces 230 to 240 watts or more at normal operating running motor temp, as tested in a actual DRZ motor.  :thumbsup:

yeeeep ! 

 

everyone i've talked to has said the same thing: 

 

don't tax your electric system with heat, for the sake of higher output (wattage) numbers. 

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yeeeep !

everyone i've talked to has said the same thing:

don't tax your electric system with heat, for the sake of higher output (wattage) numbers.

ricks stators are factory output and if not they are defiantly built to handle/hold the heat. The other random brands claim high output. Ricks is very well known among other power sport riders. It seems the drz people don't know much about them but I can assure you they don't create more heat or more output unless specifically ordered that way.

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If people are having issues going thru stators the real solution to save $ and reapair is to send out your factory stator to a reputable alternator shop for a rewind.

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ricks stators are factory output and if not they are defiantly built to handle/hold the heat. The other random brands claim high output. Ricks is very well known among other power sport riders. It seems the drz people don't know much about them but I can assure you they don't create more heat or more output unless specifically ordered that way.

 

 

 Umm, NO

From the Ricks Motorsport web site....

"Hot Shot Suzuki Stator: This higher output stator will provide approximately 15-20% more power than the stock piece."

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/21-808H/MDdTdXpEUlo0MDA=

Both Ricks MotorSports and Electrosport claim to be High Wattage... and  Electrosport shop manager did not even know there are TWO different flywheels and Stators for the DRZ Models Kicker and Electric Start.

The Manager claimed I was wrong and did not know what i was talking about for more than an Hour and bunch of emails.. In the end he still did not believe me. .. He thinks ALL DRZ400 made use the exact same flywheel and stator...even after showing him there was a DRZ400 (no letter designation) kick start only version that was physically different.  uses different part numbers, Different wiring set up for the stator, physically different SIZE flywheel   :banghead:

 

So, of the three major aftermarket stator vendors.

 

Only One.. Ricky Stator,  makes no claims of being "High Output" and making XX% more wattage than a OEM stator.

 

ElectroSport claims 40% more than a OEM stator.. And sells the same stator for All DRZ,, to include the Kicker  :facepalm:

Ricks Motorsports claims 15-20% and to their credit, were willing to discuss how they came to that conclusion, and are willing to have a Tech call me on Monday to discuss further. 

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Umm, NO

Both Ricks MotorSports and Electrosport claim to be High Wattage... and Electrosport shop manager did not even know there are TWO different flywheels and Stators for the DRZ Models Kicker and Electric Start.

The Manager claimed I was wrong and did not know what i was talking about for more than an Hour and bunch of emails.. In the end he still did not believe me. .. He thinks ALL DRZ400 made use the exact same flywheel and stator...even after showing him there was a DRZ400 (no letter designation) kick start only version that was physically different. uses different part numbers, Different wiring set up for the stator, physically different SIZE flywheel :banghead:

So, of the three major aftermarket stator vendors.

Only One.. Ricky Stator, makes no claims of being "High Output" and making XX% more wattage than a OEM stator.

ElectroSport claims 40% more than a OEM stator.. And sells the same stator for All DRZ,, to include the Kicker :facepalm:

Ricks Motorsports claims 15-20% and to their credit, were willing to discuss how they came to that conclusion, and are willing to have a Tech call me on Monday to discuss further.

they must make 2 because the one I got said nothing about higher output on the site or the packaging.

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