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230 fork emulators

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Would anyone have a part number for these for a ttr230, I'd like to improve a bit upon the crappy stock units without too much expense.

Talked to Race Tech and felt like they didn't have time for me, I was told to take apart fork and send measurements with their form. Is this bike so unpopular that they don't keep measurements on Showa 36c forks? I was hoping to get them domestic, but may have to get them from AU or Brazil where they're an off the shelf item. I appreciate any help

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As a shot in the dark, FEGV 3501 is the one shown for the TTR225.

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I think thats the one, I found teknik in australia that listed their emulators for all bikes with 36c forks and came up witht the same number from race tech with a 2002 honda xr200

seems all ttr 225/230s and lots of honda xr's and crf trail bikes all use the same fork.

I was really disappointed in race techs customer support,

Thanks for the input!

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thats because race and ttr are never used in the same sentenance

 

 

its is too heavy bike, fix it up and go for a 250 if you want to jump or mod something

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thats because race and ttr are never used in the same sentenance

 

 

its is too heavy bike, fix it up and go for a 250 if you want to jump or mod something

 

If you want to "jump" get a race bike......if you want a very capable trail (tight woods singletrack)  bike not for "jumping" or racing, the TTR 230 is an excellent choice...

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Race Tech sells suspension components for all types of bike not just race bikes

I'm looking to improve upon the cheap ass forks on the bike to make them managable on the trails, too many bumps and the rebound goes to hell, I'm upping the oil wt to 15 to help the rebound issue and using emulators to fine tune compression, not looking to make a race bike just a better riding woods bike

Its my kids bike, he likes it and we're not building a jumper for the track otherwise I would of bought a yz125 for him.

The ttr is a very good bike but can be improved to make it better and done cheaply, the rest of the world is on top of improving these to make them better. check out teknik australias website for proof

Hell I even bought the Race Tech emulators and was willing to write up the install and results but piss on that now

Please don't be so quick to judge, there's a reason I don't post due to these bs replys

 

I've been a member here quite a while and ride a WR250F with a full Race Tech Suspension

 

 

 

 

If you want to "jump" get a race bike......if you want a very capable trail (tight woods singletrack)  bike not for "jumping" or racing, the TTR 230 is an excellent choice...

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Race Tech sells suspension components for all types of bike not just race bikes

I'm looking to improve upon the cheap ass forks on the bike to make them managable on the trails, too many bumps and the rebound goes to hell, I'm upping the oil wt to 15 to help the rebound issue and using emulators to fine tune compression, not looking to make a race bike just a better riding woods bike

Its my kids bike, he likes it and we're not building a jumper for the track otherwise I would of bought a yz125 for him.

The ttr is a very good bike but can be improved to make it better and done cheaply, the rest of the world is on top of improving these to make them better. check out teknik australias website for proof

Hell I even bought the Race Tech emulators and was willing to write up the install and results but piss on that now

Please don't be so quick to judge, there's a reason I don't post due to these bs replys

 

I've been a member here quite a while and ride a WR250F with a full Race Tech Suspension

 

I must have touched a nerve.....I agree the TTR has plenty of room for improvement....just like any bike, particularly ones designed primarily for casual use. I don't think I've ever owned a bike that I didn't modify in some way, even expensive European ones.

 

 My reply was to tomatolord's  :lame:  post

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Before you buy anything, if you haven't yet done so, check the basics:

 

Measure the fork oil level in the forks.

I found the oil level in my brand new 2013 TTR125LE to be way too low.

Where the oil level is supposed to be (on this model) 132mm, it was actually 150mm and 170mm.

This will effect BOTH compression and rebound, as my fork, too, felt way too light on rebound as well as being too soft, even with heavier springs.

 

Check this, as it HAS to be correct.

 

Great Brazil assembly. :thumbsup:

Edited by YZEtc

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Sorry was looking for a simple answer to start with, thanks for the info YZEtc, after the first few times observing my son riding it in the woods I noticed it acted like a pogo stick and almost loss of control, I attributed this to needing more break in but after time it did not get better, I went ahead an put 10wt fork oil in thinking it had 7wt from the factory to 135mm and hoped it would get better, next time we took it to a mx track to run over whoops to see if the pogo effect would improve which it did some. I think the emulators and 15 wt may get it really good and able to handle anything trail wise. 

Thanks for your help

sorry for the rant

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well guess what?

 

where i ride a guy showed up with YZ forks on his 230!

 

This is what he said

 

You have to get the ENTIRE front - tire, brakes and forks, he said the brakes dont swap to the forks

 

The hardest part was finding yz fronts that were not cracked or damaged, he said for the most part that is why the forks are for sale, they are replacing damaged ones.

 

one set he bought with "no damage" had 2 hairline cracks in them..

 

He said he also had to take the fork to a machine shop to press in the old bearing from the 230 for it work correctly.

 

Other than that it kind of look stupid imho made the front look like a chopper!

 

but he loved it.

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In stock form the TTR forks can't even do an adequate job of holding up the bike with a 125# rider.  They dive horribly under the bikes significant weight.  15W oil and preloading them a bit makes it ride and handle much better.  If you can do emulators cheap is seems like a worthy upgrade.

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Pretty sure i read that the YZ forks work with TTR wheel.  MAybe different axle sizes so wheel bearing swap or similar. 
LOTS of guys that "swap the whole thing" because they can't figure out anything else.  FWIW  ;)

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Curious, how do you add oil to the 230 forks, top is sealed and i'm guessing the allen head at the bottom holds the forks together? Also, what is an emulator? Sorry but suspension is my week point, motors and carbs are where I shine. Thanks in advance.

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The top of the fork is not sealed as if you can't get it off.

Remove the rubber cover, look closely, and you'll see a circlip sitting in a grove machined into the inner side of the fork tube.

You need to push on the cap and compress the fork spring, remove the clip, and the cap will be free to come out.

Edited by YZEtc

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Use 15wt motor oil? and how can u tell how much oil it has? and how do you 'preload'? If yalls can help me or link me to a tutiorial would be nice!,

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I ended up installing racetech fgev 3501 Emulators in my sons 2013 ttr230, found out pretty much all showa 36c forks take near the same unit. Installation was relative easy and instructions helpful, hardest part was taking the snap rings off to un cap the forks, Scariest part was drilling out the fork rods without a press and drilling holes in a 2month old scooter. Just got out of warranty a couple of weeks ago. I left the factory springs in since my son is about 130lbs. I also left the emulator springs that were shipped assembled, it comes with 3 sets and the installed were the correct. I haven't had to adjust the emulator, its about correct out of the package for my sons weight and the type of riding we do. I did go back with 15wt fork oil from bel ray, and set the level at 140mm in.stead of the manuals 160mm. I had messages back and forth with teknik australia since they make all the mods for the 36c forks and ttr's and they recommended 140 which is working well. after a few rides in the forest and on the mx track the bike has lost all its pogo effect and is much more corntollable, most notable is the minimized  of diving when braking all in all worth the less than 200 spent on this. I could probably tweek it a bit more on the compression dampening  but its a real pita to get to the emulators to adjust them and we're maybe a half turn off.

 


 

 

Use 15wt motor oil? and how can u tell how much oil it has? and how do you 'preload'? If yalls can help me or link me to a tutiorial would be nice!,

 

use fork oil, i use bel ray on my bikes but any mfg is good, to do oil level either get a syringe set up with the calibrated tube to measure or bigass  syringe hose and stick with the correct level marked. key is to overfill the forks

when caps are off and springs out and compressed and suck out the excess to correct measurement. Lots of YT videos how to do it

 

PRELOAD on the 36c is adding washers, they are supplied in the emulator kit, I left this alone, may get preload adjusters from teknik later on.

 

 

Also at the same time I installed a DG slip on exhaust O series,(03-4230) one of the less expensive pipes around but top quality all the way esp compared to fmf,and perfect fit.only drawback is its loud and at or more than the 96db level for the forest. Planning to get a silencer soon, but the kid likes it.

 

JT 14 tooth front sprocket, had to remove the cover brace to get the cover to fit correctly but better performance, 15t would work too but have to run without the sprocket cover and won't do that in the forest got to have the protection. Still tons of low end and better top end and no need to shorten chain either

 

DId air box mod, high flow air filter and rejet of the carb with a 130 and 38 jets we run at sea level and it starts so much better, no indication of running hot either.

Overall this bike woke up and is now almost able to keep up with my wr250f I did all this for less than 500.00 and it was relatively easy to do.

 

Sorry for the long post!

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I ended up installing racetech fgev 3501 Emulators in my sons 2013 ttr230, found out pretty much all showa 36c forks take near the same unit. Installation was relative easy and instructions helpful, hardest part was taking the snap rings off to un cap the forks, Scariest part was drilling out the fork rods without a press and drilling holes in a 2month old scooter. Just got out of warranty a couple of weeks ago. I left the factory springs in since my son is about 130lbs. I also left the emulator springs that were shipped assembled, it comes with 3 sets and the installed were the correct. I haven't had to adjust the emulator, its about correct out of the package for my sons weight and the type of riding we do. I did go back with 15wt fork oil from bel ray, and set the level at 140mm in.stead of the manuals 160mm. I had messages back and forth with teknik australia since they make all the mods for the 36c forks and ttr's and they recommended 140 which is working well. after a few rides in the forest and on the mx track the bike has lost all its pogo effect and is much more corntollable, most notable is the minimized of diving when braking all in all worth the less than 200 spent on this. I could probably tweek it a bit more on the compression dampening but its a real pita to get to the emulators to adjust them and we're maybe a half turn off.

use fork oil, i use bel ray on my bikes but any mfg is good, to do oil level either get a syringe set up with the calibrated tube to measure or bigass syringe hose and stick with the correct level marked. key is to overfill the forks

when caps are off and springs out and compressed and suck out the excess to correct measurement. Lots of YT videos how to do it

PRELOAD on the 36c is adding washers, they are supplied in the emulator kit, I left this alone, may get preload adjusters from teknik later on.

Also at the same time I installed a DG slip on exhaust O series,(03-4230) one of the less expensive pipes around but top quality all the way esp compared to fmf,and perfect fit.only drawback is its loud and at or more than the 96db level for the forest. Planning to get a silencer soon, but the kid likes it.

JT 14 tooth front sprocket, had to remove the cover brace to get the cover to fit correctly but better performance, 15t would work too but have to run without the sprocket cover and won't do that in the forest got to have the protection. Still tons of low end and better top end and no need to shorten chain either

DId air box mod, high flow air filter and rejet of the carb with a 130 and 38 jets we run at sea level and it starts so much better, no indication of running hot either.

Overall this bike woke up and is now almost able to keep up with my wr250f I did all this for less than 500.00 and it was relatively easy to do.

Sorry for the long post!

Thanks i will check YT. seems its incredible hard to find a guide on how to do this. I want a 15t sprocket.. would it be easier to just go smaller on the back one? say a 47 ?

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You say 'overfill' the fork oil? Do you have a link to the one you used? Did you get new forks or a rebuild kit?

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I have a cyclegear relatively close to home so I go there buy my oils there, anyone sells the stuff on line too like amazon has about everything

heres a link to what the tool looks like http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-HD-590000-B-B-590000-B/dp/B004N1KHMS

I did not get new forks, bike is 3 mos old right now I modified the factory units and with everything being new I was careful disassembling so I didnt damage the seals

The thicker oil will only affect the rebound dampening since the compression is set by the calibrated holes in the fork rods, the emulators are valving to control the

compression and make it adjustable, the calibrated holes in the fork rods are drilled out to enlarge and holes are added to increase flow so the emulators do the dampening and not the holes in the rods,

 

going smaller by 3 teeth on the rear will probably require shortening your chain a few links, changing the front is a lot cheaper, I got my gear for 15.00 new and didnt have to mess with the chain. Its a really easy change just remove cover. lock and bolt, loosen rear axle and adjusters and slide wheel forward, put new sprocket on and adjust chain and wheel.

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