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DRZ 400 Stator

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01' DRZ 400

 

12,000 miles

 

Stator took a dump

 

How common is this problem with the DRZ's?

 

Is there a reason besides maybe Old Age?

 

thanks

 

 

randy

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Common issue. I recommend Ricky stator. Great customer service. Price is right and fast shipping. I think I got around 12k out if my first stator. Almost 12k on my Ricky stator as it sits. Going strong.

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01' DRZ 400

 

12,000 miles

 

Stator took a dump

 

How common is this problem with the DRZ's?

 

Is there a reason besides maybe Old Age?

 

thanks

 

 

randy

 

 

there's a section about 'deep fried stator' in the faq. take a peek. 

 

yes, it's very common for them to fail if the oil isnt changed every 1000 miles. otherwise, no. 

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I used to track DRZ oem stators, average for street use is around 20,000 miles, offroad less, but I saw some make it to about 30,000 miles street wise, but the average is around 20,000 mile for most. After market generally lower and sometimes they end up doing the job a couple times(but they try to save some money) , the pulsar coil is on the stator and the reason its more expensive, than some other models that don't have the pulsar coil on the stator.

Unless there is some defect in the particular models stator, oem is generally the most full proof, and works the first time, and lasts the longest.

Edited by Spud786

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My friend changes his oil religiously in his 07 and it still failed last year. He takes good care of his bikes. He uses it on and off road.

Edited by Hoosier-Daddy

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My friends 07 drz had a stator fail. He said it is a common issue.

Yeah stators fail on all bikes, most models are sub 50,000 mile life(there are models that average above 50,000 mile and considered above aver life), but you can spend 15 dollar per quart on oil and change every 95 miles, they will still fail. Its just the nature of the beast.

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Yeah stators fail on all bikes, most models are sub 50,000 mile life(there are models that average above 50,000 mile and considered above aver life), but you can spend 15 dollar per quart on oil and change every 95 miles, they will still fail. Its just the nature of the beast.

 

Does it just get too hot? Why do these fail so regularly?

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Does it just get too hot? Why do these fail so regularly?

Yes, from heat and vibration. eventually the epoxy coating on the wiring wears and fatigues from vibration and heat, and then you begin to have the wiring shorting out. That's how a stator ends a normal life, outside of something else cutting the life even shorter, like imperfection from the factory and overall quality of the part.

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there's a section about 'deep fried stator' in the faq. take a peek. 

 

yes, it's very common for them to fail if the oil isnt changed every 1000 miles. otherwise, no. 

thanks for everyones input. I will consider the Ricky Stator.

 

I change my oil pretty frequently since we ride hard on dual sport events. 

 

Randy

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I checked the resistance and ac voltage as directed and came up with proper numbers for resistance and ac voltage. 

 

So what else could be the problem if it is not the stator????????

 

Also no voltage reading on the rectifier per instruction!!!!! could this be the problem? 

Edited by rabbitandy

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To help us understand - List each test, how the test was done and the test results.  Assume we are not standing next to you so tell us everything in detail.

 

Why did you originally think the stator was bad?  What does the motorcycle do or not do that is a problem?

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To help us understand - List each test, how the test was done and the test results.  Assume we are not standing next to you so tell us everything in detail.

 

Why did you originally think the stator was bad?  What does the motorcycle do or not do that is a problem?

Thank you Noble for jumping in. I am at the point where I am going to start replacing parts till it gets fixed. 

Here is how my testing has gone so far. 

 

Thank you in advance for your help. 

 

 bike died and would not start with out a push. 

Checked the battery and it was down to 9volts. 

Jump started the bike and showed no charge going to battery.

Put in a fully charged battery after unhooking head light bulb and broken front right turn signal that was dangling by the wires. This problem did not occur after a crash. Turn signal was broke during transport. 

 

After putting in fresh battery, A charge was then indicated at 14+volts.

 

Later after bringing the original battery (Shorai) back up to full charge and placing it back into the bike, there was no indication of bike charging. 

 

My test with a volt meter checking the y1, y2, and y3 wires coming from the stator, "A/C Generator No-load test, 5000 rpm"

indicates 80 to 90 volts ac on two of the lead wires but not on the third.  This is while using the red lead and black lead of the multi tester touching the leads of the wires coming from the stator. 

 

I am a little confused checking the resistance of the coil. 

 

I tried the y1 to y2  to y3 test. But showed no reading. I then went to ground and got reading of 1.5, 1.5, and .7

 

Further testing of the resistance of the b/w and r plug that hooks to the regulator/rectifier was not done because of the free power mod.

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It would be nearly impossible for all 3 resistance tests Y1 to Y2, Y2 to Y3, and Y3 to Y1, to show open circuit.  I suspect a test error.   (you were testing the stator leads not the RR leads right?  Your ohm meter should be set to a low ohms scale.  Say 200 ohm.  Or auto ranging if you have that kind of a meter.  If still no reading, go up on the ohm scale.  But frankly if you do not get a reading of around 1 to 10 ohms, there is no point to further testing.  Something is seriously wrong.

 

Your test results of Y1 ,Y2, and Y3 each to ground showing low resistance confirm a bad stator.  So further testing is not needed.  The AC voltage test also shows a problem, missing 1of the 3 phases.

 

I can not explain why it would not charge, then show charge, then not charge again.  I suppose an intermittent failure is possible.

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My brothers 400e stator failed under 10,000kms and he's very anal about keeping his bike in perfect condition. Oil changed before 2,000km and filter.

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It would be nearly impossible for all 3 resistance tests Y1 to Y2, Y2 to Y3, and Y3 to Y1, to show open circuit.  I suspect a test error.   (you were testing the stator leads not the RR leads right?  Your ohm meter should be set to a low ohms scale.  Say 200 ohm.  Or auto ranging if you have that kind of a meter.  If still no reading, go up on the ohm scale.  But frankly if you do not get a reading of around 1 to 10 ohms, there is no point to further testing.  Something is seriously wrong.

 

Your test results of Y1 ,Y2, and Y3 each to ground showing low resistance confirm a bad stator.  So further testing is not needed.  The AC voltage test also shows a problem, missing 1of the 3 phases.

 

 

 

Thanks Noble for  your patience. 

 

The stator coil resistance test I did as per instructions in repair manual. 

 

It says to "measure resistance between the three lead wires using circuit tester. Stator coil resistance is Standard:.05 - 1.25

yellow to yellow and yellow to ground."

 

my meter is digital.

 

this is where I got a reading of 1.5, 1.5 and .7

 

 

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What service maual says that?  There should be a low resistance reading yellow to yellow.  I will not argue with .05 to 1.25 ohm.  Anything close to 1 ohm is fine.  There should never be any reading Yellow to ground.  The stator coils need to be insulated from ground.  Any connection, low resistance (1 to 10 ohm) or high resistance (1000 ohm or more) is insulation failure.  You want to see infinity, no connection at all.

 

Your readings of 1.5, 1.5, and .7 ohm yellow to ground prove that the the 3 yellow wires are internally connected as they are suppose to be. So it is not possible to get no reading yellow to yellow.  You need to repeat that test although there is no point. A grounded stator is bad.

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there's a section about 'deep fried stator' in the faq. take a peek. 

 

yes, it's very common for them to fail if the oil isnt changed every 1000 miles. otherwise, no. 

That article has been pulled.

 

I now believe the issue is more like side issue and not a common one.

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What service maual says that?  There should be a low resistance reading yellow to yellow.  I will not argue with .05 to 1.25 ohm.  Anything close to 1 ohm is fine.  There should never be any reading Yellow to ground.  The stator coils need to be insulated from ground.  Any connection, low resistance (1 to 10 ohm) or high resistance (1000 ohm or more) is insulation failure.  You want to see infinity, no connection at all.

 

Your readings of 1.5, 1.5, and .7 ohm yellow to ground prove that the the 3 yellow wires are internally connected as they are suppose to be. So it is not possible to get no reading yellow to yellow.  You need to repeat that test although there is no point. A grounded stator is bad.

I'll let you know if new stator fixes the prob.  thanks again for your  help. 

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If i might add my two cents....when i got my drz with 14K miles, stator was completely dead. I got a ricky stator that has served me well, but ran into another problem. The POS stock battery. If your still running stock battery, consider cutting out the back of the battery box and fitting a YTZ10S battery, and making a bracket from a strip of steel or aluminum to hold it in there.

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