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Kicking 1999 XR600, sputters for bit, quits.

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So just bought a 1999 xr600 and the guy started it right up after draining the bowl because it was overflowing. Get back home. 

Next day ride it around and after pulling into drive way realize I had choke on the whole time.

Couple days later try and get it started and all it does is tease me with a couple seconds of revs then quits, not responsive to throttle. sounds like it wants to run!

Clean carb and realize that half of the choke flap is missing... :banghead:

put it all back together and its still sputtering then dying.

No idea what the problem could be, it has gas, spark and compression. It ran great the night I bought it! 

What should I try to narrow the problem down? 

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K...Well having half the choke plate missing possibly won't help..Make a new one or buy one from XRsOnly,,think they sell a replacement..The real question is what happened to the other half??..Does the engine sound semi normal..ie not rattling too much..The carb overflowing gas is a sign of a stuffed float valve in the carb..It needs replacing to get rid of that problem. You don't really want carbs overflowing gas when you are trying to start them. I'll post a fiche at the end with the new part required to fix that at the end of this rant. Starting XR/XL is a bit fiddly depending on the bike,,First off just try turning the idle knob up one turn before you try to start it,,Use no throttle when attempting the start..You have no choke so we can't say use that,,Some bikes need choke some don't,,You'll need to replace the choke plate to know whether you need choke or not..

 

the fiche below..You want part number two..p/n 16011-KA3-741..Go to a Honda shop,,quote that number,,they will get it for you.

http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2714486&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=135311

Edited by Horri

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While you have the carb apart putting in the new valve and doing the choke plate you should pull the main jet and the pilot jet

and also the tube the main jet screws into. On the sides of both the pilot and the tube the main screws into are sets of tiny holes.

Get a strand from a wire brush and push it through all the holes on the tube and the pilot jet. All those items are in the bowl of the carb

so you can do them all at once when you get the new valve. Replacing the choke plate is tricky if you don't know what you're doing or

haven't done one before. Once or if you get a new one I'll attempt an explanation of the install of it..

 

The basic trick there is to not allow the choke actuating arm which the plates attached to unwind as you pull the old plate off and before

you screw the new one on. On one end.(the right) it goes into a small sort of recess/hole..In that hole is a tiny spring or somesuch..

If you allow the actuating arm to spin during removal or putting on of the new plate the spring will unwind or become disengaged from

the actuating arm..this leads to issues as you then have no spring loading..Don't allow the actuating arm to spin as you remove or

install the new plate is the trick..Easier said than done as it's a fiddly job..All in post 1 and 2 need doing to semi rule out some carb

problem..Half done isn't good enough..

Edited by Horri

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Thanks for the replies Horri! :cheers:  I actually tore the carb apart and the float valve had some crud on it. Put it back together and didn't leak anymore. 

So then I tried getting pulled by my friend in his truck and throwing it into 2nd to see if it would start. Wouldn't even sputter really. I'm thinking the plug might be fouled? 

Is it really possible to foul a "brand new" plug (says the guy I bought it from) in a couple short rides? also was wondering what size sprocket the plug is.

 

As far as the other end of the choke plate... should I be listening for rattles? scratches? Where do the fragments actually end up? Thanks again for the info.  

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K,,well maybe the valves ok now..You should really clean those jets and that tube as I described. It's normally something

like those being blocked or semi blocked that causes starting issues with fuel. The socket for the plug is I think 18mm.

You won't get a normal plug spanner in there,,too tight the stock car type ones. Best thing to do is go to a small engine shop..

mowers/chainsaws etc and get a cheap 18mm tube socket..Long thing which you put a bar through to undo the plug. The external

sides of it will maybe need a bit of grinding off with a grinder as just about any tube spanner or socket that isn't the original Honda

one for the job is too tight a fit in the space allowed,,Bit of grinding of the externals of the tube spanner or socket sorts that out.

I somehow doubt the plugs fouled but maybe with the lost piece of choke plate it's gone into the cylinder and minced the end of the plug

making the gap wrong..Broken off choke plates normally destroy engines..hopefully yours is still ok..

Edited by Horri

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Is there a way I can take off the head without screwing anything up? really dont want to do some serious surgery. I guess the previous owner has the spark plug tool and he is going to help me out. Guess we will find out if the motor is completely f#%ked once we get the plug out. Do you know any of the symtoms of a motor that has had some shrapnel ran through it? seems like I would hear random clinks and such the last time it sputtered...

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Hmm..Have you done much mechanical stuff on heads of bikes or cars before. Getting things apart isn't hard it's the making sure

it goes back together correctly and that oil checking procedures are followed and executed properly to make sure everythings

flowing and set right when you restart the engine. If a choke plate got into the cylinder/head area I'd expect to have heard a racket.

If the bike sounds semi normal now it may be ok..You may have got lucky and it destroyed itself and shot out the exhaust valves

without doing anything,,on the other hand..???. Two ways to get the head off..Motor in the bike or motor out..I only know motor

out so that's what I do,,Wouldn't do it the other way anyway as I like a clear area to work in..Takes about an hour to get the engine

out of the frame and on the bench,,another half to an hour to have a look at the internals..Pretty easy if you've done it a few times..

 

Really before contemplating radical surgery check those things in the carb and the plug gap..No sense going bananas and pulling

the entire thing apart if it's not required..If you've ridden enough XR/XL you should know when an engine sounds normal..If not

it's a bit of a guess as to whether the things ok as it sounds now..They are not meant to be really rattly in the engine,,best I can say.

Edited by Horri

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I've done some head work on a two stroke!  :smirk:  but I'm pretty good at using my resources ( the internet) I already downloaded a manual. always trying to learn new things also.

but... at the same time I just bought the bike and hopefully the previous owner will have some empathy and will help me out with cost or at least help with the job. 

This is also my first XR... so that doesn't help. Should be getting with the PO on sunday and pulling the plug. I'm thinking I shouldn't even start it because of the metal that could be in the valve train or top end. What a bad way to start my XR experience.

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First off, a spark plug is only new for the first few seconds of run time.  If you rode around for a while with the choke on, or half way functional, you may easily have carbon fouled the spark plug.  You ought to own a spark plug wrench for this bike to keep in the tool pouch because most standard sockets won't fit.

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Snap On has a thin walled 18mm sparkplug wrench that works perfectly. I have one and really like it.

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So just tried kicking it and it seems to be seized up. Didn't want to push too hard though, who knows what could be blocked. Any suggestions on where I should go from here?

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We can only trust your knowledge of engines. If as you say it won't kick over the engine is jammed up by something.

It needs to be removed from the bike and pulled down to the Piston area for a look at what's going on in there..

If the history of the bike is correct and the choke plates broken off and been ingested that's the normal thing to do.

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Hello Gents,

 

Just got the bike in running condition! Tore it all apart and there it was, little chunk of metal sitting on the piston!  :foul: but got it all put together and she's back to thumpin. Guess I got lucky. The head was a little pinged up but all the valves sealed well and it still has a ton of compression. Thanks for the replies, just glad I walked away without losing more than 60 dollars in repairs!

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