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Husky TXC310 Woods stack suggestions

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Taking on my first revalve from scratch, have done Gold Valves, and even better I get to experiment on a friends bike - 2013 Husky TXC310, KYB twin chambers, pretty similar to the later YZ stuff.  The bike feels plush enough to me overall, but felt like I couldn't get the thing into the midstroke very easily.  We run tight MN woods - avg speed 10-15 mph, 2-3rd gear all day. 195 pound rider.  The bike feels like it would be great for high speed offroad, desert and whatnot.  He's been running with comp and reb adjusters just about all the way out. 

 

So, first things first, the bike was pretty undersprung in the rear, so dragging butt didn't help with fork action either.  Correct shock spring is on.  And then we tore into the forks, this is what we found:

 

Outer chamber - 300ml

 

Comp stack:

 

32.12 (x18)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.12

15.12

14.25

18.30 (x3)

20mm washer

11.25 (x2)

22.12(x3)

 

Midvalve:

 

.3 mm float

20.12 (x4)

17.12 (x3)

11.25 (x2)

17.30 (x3)

collar

8.12 (as spacer between collar and top plate)

 

Rebound::

 

20.12 (x4)

13.12

18.12

16.12

14.12

12.12

10.25

 

I'd like to start with some shim shuffle to see if it helps.  The comp stack looks pretty stiff for what we do - seems like a pretty stout taper!   My first thought would be to remove some face shims off the comp, then maybe try to add a crossover?  Could I grab one of the 22.12 after the washer to use as crossover?  And last, could I move an 11 up after the 14 to use as a clamp?  It would look like this:

 

32.12 (x3)

22.12

32.12 (X12)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.12

15.12

14.25

11.25

18.30 (x3)

20mm washer

11.25 (x1)

22.12(x2)

 

I expected the mid to be stiff, based on how the bike felt.  Now I'm thinking the base valve is way stiff, too.  But the float seems tight, so I'm wondering if I should pull one 20.12 off the face and one of the 17's after, to get closer to .55 mm float.   So, like this:

 

.54 mm float

20.12 (x3)

17.12 (x2)

11.25 (x2)

17.30 (x3)

collar

8.12 (as spacer between collar and top plate)

 

 

Any advice would be awesome, I know there's some great minds out there.  I've read up for about a year and half to get to this point.  Thanks in advance! 

Edited by C-P

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Is a TXC310 a woods bike or MX bike?  That stock stack looks about like what came stock in my 2009 YZ450, which is just what you said.  Way too stiff for through the trees tight woods riding.  I think your plan sounds good.  On my YZ, I think I ended up really close to that.

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Is a TXC310 a woods bike or MX bike? That stock stack looks about like what came stock in my 2009 YZ450, which is just what you said. Way too stiff for through the trees tight woods riding. I think your plan sounds good. On my YZ, I think I ended up really close to that.

That's the funny thing - I guess it's technically an 'off-road' bike. I followed the development of the TXC's the past few years, I think the suspension settings were developed on the West Coast. And then who knows what the Italians would try either...thx for the input!

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TXCs are pretty stiff, I think it is more of a fast guy GNCC setup than a "woods" setup as I would consider it.

 

Your plan is pretty good.  I'd run the crossover further down, I would NOT change the clamp to an 11 (that is going to make it really soft), and it start I would just pull 1 face shim from the mid.  Try the base like this:

 

32.12 (x8-14)

22.12

32.12 (x1-6)

30.12

28.12

26.12

24.12

22.12

20.12

18.12

16.12

15.12

14.25

18.30 (x3)

20mm washer

11.25 (x2)

22.12(x1)

 

Is he running fully out on rebound because the reb is too slow, or to try to soften the compression via rebound bleed?  After you make those changes, I'd put the reb back towards the middle and see how it feels.

 

FYI, the shock on those bikes is also very stiff, so improvements can be made there too.

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Thanks Kyle!  Yes, I think he was running rebound out to try to soften up the whole fork.  And I have a feeling we will want to look at the shock once the forks are dialed in.  Another question - would the stack after the washer be considered a bleed stack on this fork?  I know there's some theory out there about flipping it over to disable it.  My understanding is it will be softer on the small stuff, but may dive more under braking?  Thanks again. 

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Yup, that is a bleed stack.  I have experimented with changing the bleed stack on my WR (KYB OC forks) and I honestly am not sure it made a big difference.  I am running without a bleed stack right now and I couldn't discern that change from other changes I made to the stack while I was in there.  I'd love to hear some of the more experienced guy's thoughts on them.

 

Let us know how it works out.

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One other thing I'm contemplating -

Also have softer IC springs going in. That should also help soften up the small stuff. I think.

Maybe skip the x-over, remove about 4-5 face shims from the comp and the 1 from the mid?

A while back Dave J said x-overs were for slow woods guys and beginners, haha.

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Thought I'd follow this up with the final mod and ride report. Because I'm about ready to dive into another set of SSS for my YZ 295 steelie...

We ended up running 14 face shims on the comp, and removed one .22 at the bleed. No X-over.

On the mid, pulled one 20 to open the float up to about .5

Left rebound as is.

Also installed softer IC spring, think a 1.8.

Probably too many changes at once, but it needed a couple for sure!

Forks are plush, still very controlled with linear progression to bottoming resistance. Couldn't get it to do anything I didn't like. My buddy loves it.

Gonna post up my next project tomorrow - trying to revalve a Factory Connection revalve!

Edited by C-P

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