Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

gonna re-valve again. need some help please.

Recommended Posts

recently re-valved my 07 kx250f using race tech G2-R. also sprung for my weight. i ride woods only. took it for a ride today and after over 3 hours of trying to tune it, its just not working. its harsh everywhere and at all speeds. my knees and back are killing me lol. also doesn't turn very well. front wants to wash out. this is the first time i have tried the 2 stage set up. i am gonna pull them and start over. while i am in there, should i do anything to the mid valve to make it better for woods? i am a front of the pack C rider. terrain is east ky roots, rocks and hills

 

more info on current set up: (feel free to make suggestions)

 

standard stiffness selected

 

restrictor stack--(6) .15x26  and (1) .10x17

 

low speed crossover--.10x22

 

cl--(4) .15x30

 

ch--

(1) .10x30  

(2) .10x28

(2) .10x26

(2) .10x24

(2) .10x22

(2) .10x20

Edited by ridinredneck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have considered changing the crossover to (2) .10x20. that would help soften the low speed up some. the current high speed is ch49. thinking about changing to a ch47 to soften the high speed. i may also change the restrictor shims to .15x22's instead of the 26's. the forks are no where near bottoming out and i dont do large jumps so i was thinking these settings would help. when i looked at the fork travel today, the clean area was about 3 1/2 inches from the bottom of the forks. hopefully softening it up some will help with using more of the forks travel and make for a better ride. my old bones cant take anymore of the beating i took yesterday. lol. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know nothing of gv stacks but I would reduce the restrict or stack as you said then remove half the low speed 0.15s then also soften the hs stack and use less oil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm familiar with those stacks.

I would go with (3) .15x30's , keep the .10x22 crossover, and go to a cH46 in addition to softening the mid valve by removing a face shim. Those specs are for ME @ 190 lbs if I was riding in eastern KY (ridden there before).

Also, as mog said, soften your restrictor stack and use less oil. I would start at the minimum and add it as needed with a syringe through the air bleed screws. Fast, accurate, and a lot easier than removing oil when there's too much.

Oh, I almost forgot. What size bleed hole did RT recommend for you to drill in the piston?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bleed is vital so it would be good to find out if you needed one

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bleed is vital so it would be good to find out if you needed one

i know when i did the shock i had to drill the bleed hole. but it said nothing about it on the fork set up. Compression Gold Valve Piston Bleed Hole (Metric and Number Drill - drill piston if not pre-drilled): n/a.  so i will check to see if it was pre-drilled.

 

Also mog, on another thread i ask about the shims under the base plate. if i put anything under the base plate i dont think there is room for the nut to fit right. but if it needs it i will check again.

Edited by ridinredneck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did some research into my build sheets and you are correct. RT didn't recommend a bleed hole in the base valve. They did however in the mid valve 1.3mm(#55). I think that the stock MV hole is about 1.5mm so you should be good with that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agreed. A shock thats kicking around like that can put a lot of extra weight on the front. Definitely need to take care of that first. I wouldn't rule out the possibility of that being a compression problem as much or more than a rebound issue. It's probably a little of both though. The reason I'm saying this is from past experience with race tech setups. The shock stacks they recommend for LS rebound are generally a little too soft and the HS compression a little too stiff for the terrain in places like eastern KY, WV, western MD, etc. Their setup probably works great in northern CA, lol. (but IDK, never ridden there)

For example, your out riding and come across a section of trail that makes your rear kick (rocks, roots) and you turn in your rebound clicker to get rid of the kick. When you do that you are also making the compression stiffer because both cL and rL share a "common bleed" there. That's why you always adjust the rebound first. (You probably already know this stuff, but for those who might not...) Anyway you come through the same section again and it's still kicking, turn the screw in a couple of more turns, repeat the process a few times and the rebound kick becomes a compression kick (especially if the cH is a little too stiff already). You never really do find that sweet spot where things work well. I've had this happen with a couple of bikes, both had race tech setups. I'm not saying this is your problem, just putting it out there for thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did RT recommend for the shock? And if you've changed it from that, what have you done?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did RT recommend for the shock? And if you've changed it from that, what have you done?

i am gonna start a new thread about the shock. i will give the RT settings in that thread. im gonna need some ideas in what valving would be good because this is my first time re-valving a shock. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×