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XL600R - Handlebar specs

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hello everyone : )

 

My original 1984 handlebar is ready to retire and I was wondering what the specs were because I am trying to find a similar one so I can use all the original grips and instruments and stuff.

Can I just go ahead and purchase something like this?

 

- http://www.bikebandit.com/fly-1010-carbon-steel-handlebars?m=11998

- http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4945/i/fly-racing-1010-carbon-steel-7-8-standard-handlebars?WT.ac=SLIsearch

 

 

aaand I dont want to spend more than 20 bucks if possible... :ph34r:

 

so come forward guys, I need your expertise!

 

 

hope youre all enjoying this amazing weather somewhere out and about on your XR's!

 

all the best,

constantin

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Get a set of calipers and measure the thickness of your current bars..Go into a shop and buy some that size or buy online

if you have no shops around the area. How wide they are doesn't matter you can chop the ends off if needed. I'd doubt many

people are certain whether the bars they have on their XL600 are original..They're an easily bent item..If you want some with the

crossbar get them..More modern bling bars without the crossbar come in weird sizes,,avoid them if you want surety on size.

Edited by Horri

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Years ago i bought a set of cheap aluminum bars for $25 or so. They felt good, everything fit and i was happy until i dropped the bike they bent like a spaghetti noodle! Dont buy cheap bars! I bet you can search the classifieds and find a set of take offs from a brand new bike in that price range that will work great and feel better than your originals.

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I'm using some Moose branded steel bars like those on a couple ATCs'. I've got a stock DR650 handlebar on my XL600R because the DR owner bought a new bar and didn't want the stock one.

 

I had the Moose brand steel bar before the DR bar, but they got bent too bad when the bike was totaled. I put the DR bars on after I rebuilt it because they were laying around and that has been a couple years ago.

 

Those steel bars will work just fine.

 

If your bike still has the stock bars, there may be a tab on the inside of the switch housing you'll have to grind down when using aftermarket bars, or you could drill the hole for it in the new bar.

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These things took a pretty good hit. The only thing that wasn't bent or broke in some way was the headlight. I found out even the triple clamps were bent when I tried to replace the forks; had to buy replacement clamps too.

 

DSCF4118-1.jpgDSCF4115-1.jpg

Edited by Onederer

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wow thank you for all the helpful answers guys!

so the 1010 carbon steel 7/8" standard handlebars should fit just fine correct?

just wanna double check before I place my order : )

 

heres the link: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4945/i/fly-racing-1010-carbon-steel-7-8-standard-handlebars?WT.ac=SLIsearch&SiteId=10557879-3329601-yivdhpeu67gf&WT.MC_ID=54006

 

 

@onederer, that looks like quite a fall, hope you came out of that one without major injuries!

 

 

all the best,

Constantin

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Not a fall but an impediment to my motorcycles forward travel by the four wheeled type. I on the other hand kept moving. I won a titanium medal for my acrobatic performance.

 

Just saying the inexpensive steel bars are pretty tough. It takes a good whack to bend them and even then they don't cost much to replace.

 

The ones on my ATC have held up well to several crashes. I don't intend or need to put anything expensive on them.

Edited by Onederer

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These things took a pretty good hit. The only thing that wasn't bent or broke in some way was the headlight. I found out even the triple clamps were bent when I tried to replace the forks; had to buy replacement clamps too.

 

DSCF4118-1.jpgDSCF4115-1.jpg

 

If the engine still ran, couldn't you have balanced out the damage by looping back, getting a long running start, and then crashing on the other side?  Just be careful about front wheel placement at the moment of contact.  These sorts of precise fixes require a degree of delicacy and precision.

 

But leave the turn signals.  I like the way they gentle cradle the gauge cluster.

Edited by heart_of_darkness

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The bike still ran but wouldn't roll with half the spokes busted out of the front wheel and a bent brake rotor. I couldn't exactly work the throttle anyway.

 

DSCF4085.jpg

 

Just for handlebar reference, I have a set of fat aluminum bars on my other bike using adapters to mount it to the original top tree. They open up the cockpit area a little more, but if trying to mount, bar mounted accessories, the old style cross-brace bars have more mounting area because they are 7/8 all the way across.

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