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Just Picked Up a 2007 CRF230 with A Couple Issues...

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Just picked up a 2007 CRF230F this Saturday.  The bike is in great condition for its age.  The seller said it has been moved around more than it has been ridden and has been sitting for a couple years.  Since it has been sitting for a couple years there are some minor issues.  The first issue I noticed is that it does not idle without the choke engaged and makes a popping sound when letting go of the throttle.  From what I've read, this is due to running lean and the jets need to be cleaned or replaced.  He said he drained the tank though so I'm not sure why the jets would be clogged after such little use.  I read over the sticky regarding the power-up kit and it sounds pretty straightforward, but I don't have the confidence at this point to do it myself.  Therefore, I was thinking I would just buy the kit online and have a local shop install it.  On average, how much should I expect to pay for labor?  Another issue is that the tires don't hold pressure.  What is the most likely cause of this?  Dry rotted valve stems?  What else should I have looked at while it is in for service?  Should I have the brake fluid changed?  I'll definitely be getting an oil change and will replace the spark plug and air filter myself assuming those are relatively simple things to do.  I"ll be ordering the service manual so I can familiarize myself more with the bike so I can work on it myself in the future, but at this point I just want to get it running properly and have the important things checked over by a professional to ensure it is safe.

Edited by mossman77

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Take your carb off and send it to me.  I'm in Charlotte. NC and have all the parts.  if you're interested PM me and I'll give you a complete estimate as I have done it before.  If my price is right I would love to help you out.

 

get a tire valve stem tool and snug up the schrader valves as they are probably just loose.

 

I also have one BBR fork spring I can sell you.

Edited by VortecCPI
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I appreciate the offer and I'm sure you are more than capable, but I feel more comfortable getting it serviced locally. I need to get it fixed and running within the next week and also wanted to get the bike looked at as a whole.

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Take your carb off and send it to me. I'm in Charlotte. NC and have all the parts. if you're interested PM me and I'll give you a complete estimate as I have done it before. If my price is right I would love to help you out.

get a tire valve stem tool and snug up the schrader valves as they are probably just loose.

I also have one BBR fork spring I can sell you.

If you still have an extra BBR fork spring, I'm interested!

Please PM me, I send you some $$$

For the spring and for shipping.

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In general, what services should I have done to ensure the bike idles/rides smoothly?  Should I have the fuel tank, fuel lines, and carburetor cleaned?  Do you think the jets can be cleaned easily or should I just get them replaced? 

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You should upgrade to Mike Coe jetting specs after every thing in the fuel system has been cleaned.

You will be good to go then.

IMO:

After that you will need to work on the suspension.

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What are the chances that the air/fuel screw just needs to be adjusted?  Or is it more likely that the pilot jet needs cleaning?  Again, the bike has been sitting for quite some time in either a garage or a bike trailer, but is in like new condition and wasn't ridden very much.  The seller said it has been moved around more than it has been ridden.  He also said he drained the tank but who knows when he did that.  There is an oily substance coming from the drain tube on the bottom of the carb/float bowl.

Edited by mossman77

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You should upgrade to Mike Coe jetting specs after every thing in the fuel system has been cleaned.

You will be good to go then.

IMO:

After that you will need to work on the suspension.

.

Search: "Mike Coe jetting" on TT in the 230 forum and then order and install those parts after cleaning your entire fuel system.

IMO:

As stated earlier, you will be good to go as far as your fuel system is concerned.

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after cleaning your entire fuel system.

 

 

So have the fuel tank cleaned as well?  Like I said earlier, I just want to get the bike running like it's supposed and can do upgrades later.  I'll be taking it out the weekend after next so I need it fixed quickly so I'll be taking it to a local shop.  I don't want to tell them to clean the tank if it isn't necessary.  I suppose it's hard to say without seeing the tank.  I suppose I could drain it and shine a flashlight inside huh?  The CRF230F fuel tank is plastic correct?  If so, cleaning it shouldn't be a big deal right.  Just slosh some cleaner around inside and drain it out?

Edited by mossman77

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Ok.  I've made an appointment to have the fuel system (tank, lines, and carb) cleaned out and am having them replace the stock needle, jets, and idle screw with the 2003-2005 part numbers.  Regarding the tires, hopefully all I need to do is tighten or replace the valve cores.

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Sounds good, good luck and enjoy your new bike !

 

 

Thanks.

 

I replaced both valve cores this evening.  The rear tire was at zero PSI but the front tire actually held its pressure for two and a half days now so hopefully it's ok.  We'll see in a couple more days.

 

Another potential issue I failed to mention:

It's difficult to get the bike in neutral.  The pedal is so sensitive that if you give it more than a gentle tap it will skip over neutral and go into 2nd.  Is this characteristic of the Honda CRFs or is something else going on that needs looking at?

Edited by mossman77

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Not sure about the neutral issue but it sounds like your pilot jet is plugged, also I wouldn't take it to the shop. Take your tank off, put a pint of fuel in it, swish it around and drain it, do that a couple times to be sure it is clean. Also, there is a million YouTube vids that will walk you through cleaning the carb, it is not hard at all, you'll be surprised how easy it is...the shop near my place charges 100 dollars an hour so be aware of that. Good luck

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I wouldn't take it to the shop

 

 

If I had the service manual (it's in the mail) and didn't need it fixed by next weekend, I would definitely tackle the job myself.  I already got an estimate of $170 plus parts so not a big deal. 

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It suck that you need the bike running right away and don't have the service manual yet.  Labor rate at the dealers around here is $100-$120 per hour!! Everything you mentioned is easy to do once you've looked at the manual and done it once.  

A manual is about $40, but will same you hundred$$$ in labor costs any time you need to do something to your bike.

In the meantime, Rick Ramsey's site has TONS of great info on the 230 - especially his Carb Notes.

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230F.htm 

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It suck that you need the bike running right away and don't have the service manual yet.  Labor rate at the dealers around here is $100-$120 per hour!! Everything you mentioned is easy to do once you've looked at the manual and done it once.

 

 

I've decided to postpone my trip and will be fixing the bike myself--at least that's the plan.  Will likely take me all weekend (if I'm lucky).  I don't have a garage and my 3-year-old daughter takes a lot of my time so we'll see.  Labor rate at the place I was going to take it to is only $85/hr, so no big deal if I end up getting stumped and take it to them.  They said it's a 2-hour job. 

 

Regarding my rim bands, they should be in pretty good shape right?  The bike has barely been ridden but has been sitting with 0 psi in the tires for who knows how long.  Just didn't know if the bands deteriorate over prolonged periods of non-use.

Edited by mossman77

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Just got the carb out a few minutes ago.  It's definitely gummed up, as expected.  Gonna give it a good cleaning tonight.

 

A few things thus far:

 

1) The hose connecting the fuel tank petcock to the carb was stuck on the petcock fitting so I cut it off.  Hopefully the hose is a standard size available at my local auto parts store.

2) Fuel was leaking from where the petcock attaches to the bottom of the fuel tank.  The bolts are tight, but the petcock is not.  What's the deal?

3) The air filter isn't very dirty but when I dragged my finger across it, it started to flake off a little bit and it has long cracks in it.  I'm thinking it's about had it.

4) What should I used to clean/flush out the gas tank?  Is there any trick to getting the cleaner in/out of the reserve compartment or will the cleaner (whatever it may be) make it's way in there no problem?

5) There's no "snorkel" on the intake as originally anticipated.  Just a flat plastic piece with a recessed scoop on one end.  Regardless, I'll be removing it.

 

Thanks in advance for helpful replies :thumbsup:

Edited by mossman77

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1) I'm sure they do?

2) replace the O'ring

3) flush with fresh fuel a couple of times with the pet calk out to drain it.

When finished run a few oz of "Seafoam" (WallMart) in each full tank of fuel until you go through a full can. That will finish cleaning every thing out including the carbon on the piston and valves.

4) Buy and install a new "TwinAir" air filter before you start it again!!!

DO NOT USE THE AIR FILTER THATS IN YOUR BIKE NOW! Toss it out!

Edited by adnohguy

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1) I'm sure they do?

2) replace the O'ring

3) flush with fresh fuel a couple of times with the pet calk out to drain it.

When finished run a few oz of "Seafoam" (WallMart) in each full tank of fuel until you go through a full can. That will finish cleaning every thing out including the carbon on the piston and valves.

4) Buy and install a new "TwinAir" air filter before you start it again!!!

DO NOT USE THE AIR FILTER THATS IN YOUR BIKE NOW! Toss it out!

 

Thanks...I added a fifth item to my list while you were responding (see above).

 

New petcock o-ring and Twin Air filter ordered this evening.

Edited by mossman77

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Now that I've had an opportunity to start working on my bike, I noticed that the idle screw is not the d-shaped screw common on the older models. It's a flat head screw. Maybe 2007 was the transition year?  And the piloticon1.png needle DOES have 5 grooves, not two like the newer models. Guess my '07 is special.  Also no baffle plate around the main jet inside the float bowl. What the heck is going on?  The previous owner said he bought the bike new but it appears as if someone has already replaced (needle) or removed (baffle) some of the stock parts.  The main jet and pilot/idle jet are stock sizes (102 and 42), so it hasn't been re-jetted.  Very odd.  I'm reading through my service manual and there are several discrepancies between what I am seeing in the manual and what I actually have in front of me.  Should I order a baffle to go around the main jet or is it not needed?

Edited by mossman77

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