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I'm going to be doing the TNT/ TNT clone headlight swap with some of the ADVmonster LEDs.

I've replaced the ultra ugly tail with the DRC Edge light and I'll be getting rid of the current UFO Oregon headlight. 

How many amps have I saved going from the old tail to the LED and how much will I be gaining on the front? I want to know how much power I can afford to be pushing through the front lights without taxing the already-weak electrical system.

Thanks!

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The lights themselves run no more then 40 watts (which is like 3.3 amps roughly) plus the edge is alot less watts then the stocker, your electrical will be fine! My setup has over 600 miles already and about 3 months most of it sitting in a un heated garage in cold weather and it has no trouble powering it and no parasitic drain. Im not running turn signals though but even with turn signals I couldn't see it being a drain as your freeing up 15+ watts (1.25+ amps) just by switching to led headlight and tail light, it will be even more if you delete or switch to leds on the turn sigs! either way your lessening the load on the stator (200 watts) and battery! Amps can be figured by dividing watts saved by 12! Atleast that's rough/quick way of figuring it out

Edited by Decil Moto

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That's kinda what I'm thinking. My rear turns are LEDs and the fronts will be LEDs also (I'll be fab'ing that into my numberplate). 

I'm thinking about using the big lights as far as the Model 60 and Model 50 for extra power. That adds 6,300 lumens for 4.6A draw. That'll be a lot of light!

But I'm just nervous to see what I've gained from deleting tail and front. If it's a 35W headlight, that's 2.9A for the headlight alone. Then there's the taillight, so if I gained another amp from that, I'm nearly breaking even with 3x the light.


Also, check this out! 
http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter

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You will be ahead quite a bit because of the signals which stock are 21 watts each so 84 watts! You'll be lessening the load on the system! The stator is rated for 200 watts and you'll be well under that with your setup!

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Yeah, that's about 16.6 amps. I'll be drawing 4.6 for the front (the turns will be nearly negligible) and I just looked up the draw for the Edge2? 4.5 watts (that's only .375 amps, and yes, there's a point in front of that!)

So total draw between the headlight and taillight should be at around 5A which is 60 watts. I need to do the free power mod here soon. Just gotta find spare time!

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The stock front halogen H4 headlight is 55W.

 

Turn signals only matter if they are turned on, and only one side at a time.  Unless you plan to ride for hours with turns signals on, ignore them as far as draw.

 

The 200W is total.  The CDI uses some of that.  You should not figure the battery as additional power because its job is to fill in the low points when the rpm's are low and the stator is not producing enough to cover the load.  If the battery gets run down then it won't start the bike.  You wan't some reserve stator wattage available so the battery will recharge quickly after cranking.

 

The "Free Power Mod" involves heavier wire from the regulator to the battery to reduce any resistance.  This provides a potentially higher voltage at the battery terminal to ensure it fully charges.  It will not produce more power unless there were bad connections creating resistance and losing the power to heat.  It is a good idea to do but it doesn't mean you can run much more than without the mod.

 

I seem to remember during a discussion about adding heated grips or vest that on a stock bike there is about 10A extra available. 

 

You should be just fine with the proposed changes.  Halogen lights waste a lot of power to heat.  HID are a lot brighter as they convert more to light and less to heat but the ballast and bulb do produce some heat.  LED's even less to heat and therefore more efficient production of light with less draw.

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Thank you for the confirmation SlowRiding! 

I am working on the "Free Power Mod" as I write this, to make sure I'm getting maximum charge from the stator (I feel like I'm not, as sometimes my bike "thinks" about starting before it does, even considering it's my daily driver and gets about 8 miles to work and about 25 miles on my way home.) 

I felt like I'm cutting out enough halogens with inefficiencies that my high-draw LEDs will not overtax my system.

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