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Rear brake pedal - I want to lower it ('14 450 FE)

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I like to ride way up front in the seat which causes me to ride the rear brake a lot and in some cases stalls.  I have the adjuster nut all the way down allowing the pedal to be as far down as possible.  Does anyone know of a way to get it a little lower?  I looked to see if maybe Hammerhead had a different bend or something but did not see anything.

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I am wanting to do the same thing, i run fastways and have boiled my brake a few times... lemme know if anything comes up!

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You can cut some thread off the heim, so the whole rod assembly would be shorter, bring the pedal down more.

Thanks Byron.  I will check into it and get back.  However, it seems to me the threaded part needs to be longer, not shorter but maybe I am not fully understanding until I take the pedal off and check It all out.

Edited by Zip-tyDuctTape

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If the threaded part is longer the brake will rest higher and/or engage prematurely. Isn't that right.

 

It's a lever with a pivot in the middle.

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If the threaded part is longer the brake will rest higher and/or engage prematurely. Isn't that right.

 

It's a lever with a pivot in the middle.

That is true.  I was thinking in terms of the original length and being able to move the nuts down lower but in this case, if we can shorten the top of the rod (threaded area) then yes it should lower it.  I will check to see if this can be done shortly (today).

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That is true.  I was thinking in terms of the original length and being able to move the nuts down lower but in this case, if we can shorten the top of the rod (threaded area) then yes it should lower it.  I will check to see if this can be done shortly (today).

I've adjusted mine down as far as it will go and its still in line with the top of the foot peg. Too high for me as well. How is cutting the threaded hiem going to change anything? Its not a plunger is it? Now I gotta know too! :) 

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Okay, here is how I lowered mine about a centimeter, which is pretty far and I think will be perfect for me.  On the threaded assembly, there are three parts when removed.  I'm not sure of the proper terms so I will do my best to name them to prevent too much confusion.  When I say the threaded assy, I mean the whole thing that consists of three parts; the threaded portion, the locking nut (backer nut) and the push rod.  I have included pictures to better describe and show these parts.

  1. Remove the assy
  2. Remove push rod and backer nut from threaded portion
  3. Cut off about 2 threads off the threaded portion (WARNING! you may want to grind one thread off at a time to make sure you don't go too far for what you want).  I used a cut off wheel on a dremel and removed 3 threads instead of grinding.  If you use the dremel, make sure to include the thickness of the cut off wheel which was about a thread thickness for me.  Keep in mind that you will no longer be using the backer nut because it prevents the push rod from going far enough on the threaded section.  Because the push rod will no longer be using the lock nut for adjustability, the push rod will rely on bottoming out on the threaded section to lock it in place.  I ended up cutting off about 2-3 threads giving me about 1 cm lower on the pedal overall.
  4. As you remove some of the threads, keep screwing just the push rod onto the threaded portion (without the backer nut) and put it on the bike to see if that is what you want before going too far.
  5. If the pedal is where you want it, I suggest just a small amount of light to medium thread lock on the threads to keep the rod in place and then bottom out (tighten) the rod onto the threaded portion.  This should absolutely hold it in place as there is no torque on the rod once installed.

Hopefully this makes sense guys.  I am not a technical writer by any means :facepalm:

 

I think the pictures will tell all.

450FE Brake rod with backer nut std config.JPG

450FE Push rod and backer nut removed.JPG

450FE Push rod removed.JPG

450FE Removed 2 threads and backer nut.JPG

IMG_11721.JPG

Edited by Zip-tyDuctTape

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Could you not cut off the point and make a new one ?

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Could you not cut off the point and make a new one ?

I thought about that but if you notice it is beveled (gets wider as you go down) along with it is polished.

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Yes but only the tip goes into the piston recess ?

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Good write up bud!

 

I think i'd steer clear of modifying the pushrod tip. Much easier to take some thread accurately and also I bet that part is cheaper to replace if you eff it up or the tip damages the master cylinder

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