Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

2000 rm 250

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i just got a 2000 rm 250, when i ride the power band never kicks in so i went to my local bike shop and he said to get a new cdi box. i put the new cdi box in and when i start it sounds like the throttle is pined the hole time and then i shut it off. what would be causing the throttle to be pined. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you done anything with the powervalve? Usually a CID will either work or it won't from my experience. I have been messing with my powervalve settings and at one point it was acting the same way you described your bike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

snagged the throttle cable when re fitting tank at some stage? or an air leak between carb and barrel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to check the throttle cable, and yes I had the the top end token off to look at the power values. What can I do to check the values to make sure they r working good and back were they should be?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For a start the cdi does not control your Powervalve. The Power valve( PV) is mechanically driven. There is a few things you can check here and are mostly to do with its smooth operation. In essence as the revs increase a actuator moves the arm opening the PV. The rate it opens depends on the spring adjuster which is located on the right hand side. For the 2000 it should be set at 1 full turn clockwise. 

 

But since you have indicated that it seems to be at full throttle  you are more than likely to have a carb or cable problem,.I'd start there first. Just make sure your throttle moves smoothly and work from there.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

badly adjusted powervalve. I adjusted mine as per 05 (1.5 turns) but my bike is an 01 I later found out. the correct setting is 1/4 turn from neutral. try this

Edited by mgtkr1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, Spockmoon, I don't think the powervalve articulates with rpm like that. I think somewhere around 6000 rpm the actuator arm moves to open the power valves.  They are just on or off.  The spring tension just controls weather they "flick" open quickly or "roll" open a little slower.  The tension does make a dramatic difference in power delivery as very low tension gives you the "flick" that results in a hard hit, but the system is still on or off and should be visible with the engine running and valve cover removed.  Just whick the throttle somewhere around 6000 rpm and you should see the arm move.

 

I've had a KX250 KIPS system bind up and it acted just as the OP describes.  Below 6000 rpm was great, but it never came on the bike.  I had another KIPS system on a KX125 bind up in reverse.  It blubbered and stumbled down low, but ran fine on the top end. 

 

 

 

 

 

Just trying to keep it simple dude no use explaning the exact details if the guy has no idea. Just confuses things. Have another read as to what I have said and what you have written "In essence as the revs increase a actuator moves the arm opening the PV" Haven't said at what rpm, just the basic princible of what it does. As have you, with more detail. If you wanted more confusion I could have said that it is on a Ball bearing setup which moves the PV rod when the motor reaches a certian rpm. Then we have the spring tension which determins the "rate" of which it opens. Last time I remember rate can be classed as slow or fast, quick or slow however YOU would like to say it.

To confuse things more I'll get my Tachometer out and rev it too 6000 rpm to see it it is working and when I get to 5000rpm and it works is it set up wrong ? less is sometimes just enough to figure things out and understand what it is supossed to do. I have never seen someone bring out a Taco meter on a 2st bike but if you know little about how things run there are them people whom will do exactly that and with what you have said expecting everything to happen at exactly that time, It's just best left out and explained in a different manner, unless you know that the person has a very good understanding of what you are talking about.

So here's the challenge to you .Lets see how much you understand the PV system on the RM. You have just found out that the PV didn't activate when you reved it to 6000 rpm. Where are you going to look ? What are the common problems with THIS model (96-00) on the PV that you would suggest to look at ? See how you go :)

How will I know you got it right ? I raced and fixed plently of that era back in the day. Also have a 2000 model just about finished after a full resto. Give it your best shot don't be shy.

 

Edited by spockmoon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. In basic terms, off the top of my head. This would be where I look for problems. Also remember this is a old bike. I would take front PV cover off and look at amount of sludge build up. From this I would determine if the barrel would come off and everything cleaned and assessed. No stuffing around. Before that there is some other easier things to check. Firstly the locking clips on the PV rod ,often theses are not replaced and wear causing slop. Top one easy to see bottom one not. Take full clutch cover off and look. Now this is the most neglected thing when doing a rebuild. I've seen the plastic clip gone and just the actuator pushing on the rod. Wearing out the rod. Total fail there. If any problems there replace clips/ rod if you need it. While you are looking take the rod out and see if it's straight. Often these can be bent from previous owners being aggressive with putting the barrel on or what ever trouble they get in. With the rod out you can check the movement of the PV, just move the tab the rod connects into. It should go smoothly back and snap back when let go. It should not be hard to do. I would then just check both springs, the one on the rod side to see if it is set in the correct position with the locator between the spring ends. Then the one on the left hand side which gives the tension. Dependent on the model this will determine where it is set. They are different but not all. See if It is in the correct spot 1 turn for the 2000 model. It's best here to just pull apart and make sure that the spring is not broken and is set right. Adjust and retry PV movement from the tab.

Now you haven't taken the barrel off and just looked at a few things. If you found a problem there I would replace/ reset and give it a go. If not barrel off and clean and assess. There is only one other part to check but it isn't common to fail which is the actuator but would be the last thing I touch. It can be pulled apart but you need to have a bit of mechanical knowledge. Generally if there is a problem it's with the bearings flattening out or the surface the run on having a problem.

That's enough for now. More when I have a bit more time

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×