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Which rotella to get?

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I have an 01 Honda cr250 and I have seen several brands of rotella. Which one to get and how often do you change it?

 

shell rotella triple protection 15w40

 

i buy the 5 gallon pale.

 

rotella-t-15w-40-oil.jpg

81i7ANm38qL._SL1500_.jpg

rotellattp15w40.gif

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You can use any of them in your gearcase. The standard Rotella is cheaper, so that would be the one to go for.

Myself, I use Dextron 2 ATF. Better clutch action I've ever gotten with any 4 stroke oil, including both kinds of Rotella..

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5-10 hours depending how you ride.

 

 

atf is another great choice, in cold weather its thinner so it might work a bit better.

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You can use any of them in your gearcase. The standard Rotella is cheaper, so that would be the one to go for.

Myself, I use Dextron 2 ATF. Better clutch action I've ever gotten with any 4 stroke oil, including both kinds of Rotella..

I haven't seen that stuff anywhere.

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It don't matter which one you get.  And you can't get Dexron 2 except in the vintage can off Ebay.  It probably comes with a 5-pack of Billy Beer.

Edited by 1987CR250R
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I haven't seen that stuff anywhere.

Yeah, guess it's labeled Dextron III/Mercon now, pretty much the same stuff as the 2. Type F will give a slightly more abrupt (grabby) clutch engagement.

Edit: Notice from looking through my chemical shelf that they now also have a Dextron VI that is a replacement for Dextron III and II.

Edited by OLHILLBILLY
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Yeah, guess it's labeled Dextron III/Mercon now, pretty much the same stuff as the 2. Type F will give a slightly more abrupt (grabby) clutch engagement.

Edit: Notice from looking through my chemical shelf that they now also have a Dextron VI that is a replacement for Dextron III and II.

I ended up getting rotella t 15w 40

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You can use any of them in your gearcase. The standard Rotella is cheaper, so that would be the one to go for.

Myself, I use Dextron 2 ATF. Better clutch action I've ever gotten with any 4 stroke oil, including both kinds of Rotella..

I actually mix 200 ml of Dextron Mercon with 600 of Rotella T .  Perfect amount of clutch slip and holds up very well , comes out not very broke down .  Found it out by accident , grabbed the atf and filled my cup, started to pour some in and noticed the smell and stopped. I figure it was about 200 ml . . . i just topped it off with 600 more of rotella T and to my surprise i was very happy with the result. I've been running this mix since the spring. It's still dirt cheap too .

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I actually mix 200 ml of Dextron Mercon with 600 of Rotella T .  Perfect amount of clutch slip and holds up very well , comes out not very broke down .  Found it out by accident , grabbed the atf and filled my cup, started to pour some in and noticed the smell and stopped. I figure it was about 200 ml . . . i just topped it off with 600 more of rotella T and to my surprise i was very happy with the result. I've been running this mix since the spring. It's still dirt cheap too .

:thumbsup:

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shell rotella triple protection 15w40

 

i buy the 5 gallon pale.

 

rotella-t-15w-40-oil.jpg

81i7ANm38qL._SL1500_.jpg

rotellattp15w40.gif

If you ride a 01 cr 250, you will absolutely need that 22 % reduction of engine wear!
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You run the same oil for 30 hours??!! :eek:  why so long?

or am i hallucinating? 

 

Because it's still good for that long. :prof:

 

And I've got reports with numbers to back it up.

 

KTM recommends changing the oil every 12-15 hours.

By switching to oil that's $25/gallon, and a couple of $20 analysis samples... that's saved me a *LOT* of money and oil over the past 5 years/700-something hours on the bike.

 

None of the issues i've ever had with the bike were because of the oil.

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Yeah, guess it's labeled Dextron III/Mercon now, pretty much the same stuff as the 2. Type F will give a slightly more abrupt (grabby) clutch engagement.

Edit: Notice from looking through my chemical shelf that they now also have a Dextron VI that is a replacement for Dextron III and II.

Dex or Merc or Dex III is what they call it now, something to do with licensing over the Dexron name. GM own the name 'Dexron' and no longer endorse the older formulations since Dexron IV came out. 

 

Dexron II was superceded in the mid-90s, but I'm sure there are still some cans covered in dust in people's sheds  ;) 

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Interesting info Snowmule! I would be curious to see a test myself if my bike was in the US.

 

 

As to OP, got my buddy to change to Rimula R3X (not sure exactly which Rotella that is exactly, seemingly T6) and he has been using it successfully in his 02' CR250

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Because it's still good for that long. :prof:

 

And I've got reports with numbers to back it up.

 

KTM recommends changing the oil every 12-15 hours.

By switching to oil that's $25/gallon, and a couple of $20 analysis samples... that's saved me a *LOT* of money and oil over the past 5 years/700-something hours on the bike.

 

None of the issues i've ever had with the bike were because of the oil.

 

 

The $20 oil sample test DOES NOT tell you the condition of the anti-wear package of the oil.  It's not so critical in engine service because the oil will usually show a loss of viscosity or TBN long before the anti-wear package wears out.  But in a transmission that does not see outside contamination this is not the case.  There are tests availalbe to test the condition of the anti-wear package but that test also costs about $800 and it has to be done twice because it must be compared to a reference sample.  Also, the $20 test does not show you the presence of wear particles OVER 10 microns.  You can send in a sample visibly contaminated with clutch debris but that does not show up on the test results.

 

It's moronic to send out motorcycle oil for tests and it's silly to try to stretch the change intervals.  The trouble is you guys don't know the real reason behind short change intervals in motorcycle engines.  IT'S TO REMOVE CONTAMINATION and not because the oil is worn out.  You can run your 14 quart sump in your Ford diesel longer than you can your .75 quart sump in your motorcycle engine because it has more oil to dilute contamination.  On slow speed diesel engines with a piston rod seal and seperate camshaft lubrication the crankcase oil almost never gets changed in the lifetime of the engine.  There is almost no risk of contamination.

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Also, the $20 test does not show you the presence of wear particles OVER 10 microns.  You can send in a sample visibly contaminated with clutch debris but that does not show up on the test results.

Do you know why the test wouldn't pick up anything over 10μm?

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