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Wanting xr650r

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I plan on buying an xr650r this summer and wandering if there are any good years or bad years or all the same? Are there any differences through 2000 to 2007? Most of the prices around me are 4-6k. They are all street legal and for 5500 I can get one with 17"s and the stock dirt setup.

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I bought my 2001 Honda XR650R plated in July 2012 in the Kansas City area, paid $2,000.00 but it was in need of a lot of things, new side covers, from XR's only, chain, sprockets, had seat redone with Guts racing soft foam and cover, new tires, Shinko 705.  I later put a FMF with power bomb headers, it was already uncorked and had a street title. XR Only side cover opened the air intake a lot, added Clark 4.3 gave me the range I needed. I am not aware of any changes with the later models.

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2000 to mid 2001 had a clutch bushing update that had to be done,,my 01 was bought in 05 and still had not had the new style bushing in it yet, and had started to show a slight seize on that bushing.Other than that they all were the same.

That being said,my favorite mod on mine is the larger front disc,,lots of stop power now! The other mods were good too.

Stage one or two cam. (have both)

rejet with also lowering the slide cut-away,, richer,trust me IT works!..(never noted anywhere on the net,,except by me)

Larger tank,suspesion revalved,200 watt stator.

And other stuff.....

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rejet with also lowering the slide cut-away,, richer,trust me IT works!..(never noted anywhere on the net,,except by me)

 

What is the slide cut-away?  :)

Also I think the old style clutch bushing was on 2002 models too

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What is the slide cut-away?  :)

 

X 2 on slide cut away?

The carburetor slide is what opens to let more air in.  On FCR carburetors that's what you lift to make the bike go.  On CV carburetors, like comes stock on the XR650L, it is raised by vacuum after you open the throttle plate on the engine side of the carburetor.

 

The slide cutaway is any angle that the slide has on the back side that regulates the amount of vacuum that sucks fuel out of the float bowl.  Having more or less cut away makes the mixture richer or leaner from 1/4 throttle to about 1/2 throttle.  It's one of the four things you can change to affect mixture and the one that almost never gets touched, because you can usually get close enough by adjusting something else.

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Going to go look at that bike in the link posted above Saturday...what to look out for? I know the obvious bearings and filter but model specific?

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The engine sound, but I couldn't hear it until after about a year of riding, so I'm not sure if it's possible without some experience. There are those two major problems to watch out for, seeing which someone might want to sell the pig except for the obvious of course (like in need of money to fix something orange): The rod is starting to sound bad and you see a bronze colored metal flakes in the oil filter (rod+piston replacement), you hear a ticking noise from the head and adjusting valves doesn't help it (rockers+camshaft, if lucky valve lapping if not (3000miles with that noise) then also valves and valve guides replacement). The problem is that the Pig allows you to ride quite a bit even with those kind of problems and people might even not know there is a problem so of course the longer they ride the harder it gets to fix it whithout spending too much money. I think 1000-1200$ is about maximum you can spend on the engine with both those problems (rod, piston, valves, valve guides, rockers, camshaft, oil pump, bearings) if you're doing most of it yourself, also I've seen whole engines for about 1800$ somewhere, so wheel bearings are not that important here  :)

Edited by MCVL

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I'll try to listen to engine...I've ridden quite a bit of off-road bikes and kinda know what to listen for

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Oh, ok, then the opposite, the engine is quite loud and it is normal especially with the skid plate, I'm not sure it is possible to define the rod by the sound alone, but you can cirtainly tell if rockers are done for:

 

This is if it only needs valve adjustments

 

This is worn out rockers 

 

This is how it should be (although idles higher than usual, the engine is less noisy that way)

Edited by MCVL

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What is the slide cut-away?  :)

Also I think the old style clutch bushing was on 2002 models too

Take the slide out put it in a lathe and cut .035 +\- .005. off the bottom. It helps even after ALL the other jetting is done. It richens up the "just off idle" response. (Between the pilot and needle settings)

This is only for the stock carb for the 650R!

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Went and looked at it today. Runs good no weird noises at all. Has tons of power and feels real good. Only thing is rear shock leaks a little. I really like how it fits me as I'm 6 3". Does 3200 sound like a good price? ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399073494.169319.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399073509.889438.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399073526.954778.jpg

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Went and looked at it today. Runs good no weird noises at all. Has tons of power and feels real good. Only thing is rear shock leaks a little. I really like how it fits me as I'm 6 3". Does 3200 sound like a good price? 

At 6'3" there are few better bikes to dual sport  :thumbsup:

People used to disassemble the shock just to make some changes to the valve there, the seal is not that expensive, you just need the rod to be good.

Can't say about the price as it can be very different in different regions but if the other bikes for that price and condition aren't as good then I would definitely buy it  :)

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Ok most at around 4000 and a really nice ones is 5500 and 5700. What other bikes would youy reccomend? This is my favorite model that ive found. I still want something light enough to ride in the woods.

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For woods it is popular right now to ride something lightweight, mostly 350-450 4stroke or 200-300 2stroke, most reliable of those 4strokes if you're buying used is WR450F, it always stalls when you're trying to use low end torque though, it has none compared to 600-650s, you should ride it more aggressively, but it has magic button, it can withstand pavement more or less, you can gear it for highway, but you won't be able to use it on more tight stuff with the same gearing. You should be ready to rebuild the engine every year.

Out of 2strokes there are kdx220, ktm 200 and 300 exc, kdx is more reliable than a 450 4stroke, but has a little outdated suspension if you want to ride faster. 

You can ride anywhere on XR650R, it will be a workout on the tight stuff, but you might even like it for a year or so and it will be a good experience IMHO  :)

Edited by MCVL

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I already have a husky 250 2t for the tight stuff...just looking for something more road friendly and kinda want to get supermoto rims for it in the future. I've thought about a wr450 but I like the durability if the xr better. Don't really want to be rebuilding a bike all the time.

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Then there is really not much choice for the price! XR650R all the way

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Picked her up. Runs really good!! did the 2002 have the clutch bushing problem or not. Ive heard both.

IMG_03981.JPG

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