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first timer shock service, how bad did i eff this up?

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Bought a used 2010 crf250r that had been re-sprung to 4.5, I am working on an OEM Showa shock. I figured while I was in there changing the spring I would freshen up the oil too.

 

First eff up: To get the spring off, the lower shock perch was removed by un screwing the clevis (bottom mount part #10) I did release all the nitrogen prior but I forgot to set the clicker to full soft. No visual damage at this point. In hind sight I now know the proper disassembly should have been to separate the outer ring (#34) pressed up from (#4) to expose the clip. This would have left the bottom mount threaded to the shaft and I could have avoided this fiasco entirely. 100% my fault here

 

Second eff up: At this point I assumed I would need to have the bottom mount loose to get the spring and lower perch back on. I decided I wasn't comfortable going any further so I took the semi disassembled shock to a local shop for the remainder of the service. I can't say for certain everything they did but I requested disassembly, cleaning and inspection for damage then fill and charge the nitrogen res. When I got it back I noticed that the bottom was not fully threaded (this is how I dropped it off) and the clicker was set to full hard.  I suspect it was not wise to fully pressurize in this state?  50/50 here? the shop should have known to fully seat the mount prior to charging but I also should have dropped it off that way.

 

Third eff up: Installing the spring I unscrewed the bottom and got sprayed! My bench, wall and entire garage received a coating of oil and gas. 100% my fault

 

Frustrated beyond words and am envisioning having to pony up another $150 for the service again but the shop won't be open until noon on Tuesday to discuss my options. Not to mention I no telling what else got buggered in the process.

 

At this point I decided to inspect for damage where I could. Deflated the bladder, set comp and rebound to full soft and cycled the shaft a few times. I noticed that the rebound clicker will only turn 4 from full soft yet has full range when it is unthreaded from the shock shaft. Does the shock need to be full of oil and nitrogen to have full range on the bottom clicker? I am worried that there is damage further up the line that I cannot see.

 

I have since found several youtube videos for filing and bleeding the oil which seems easy enough at this point. I'm still going to have to take it in to fill the bladder. 

 

Thanks for listening.

 

J

Edited by uuc328

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Yes the shock needs to be pressurised to feel the range of the clicker , has the inner rod come out of outer main rod when you lost the oil ? That could have speared you ! The shop may have never replaced a clevis and didn't know what to do , I would not go back to let them work on iy but would expect a refund

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You missed a great opportunity to make a very funny vid.

To get the reb needle back as it should be it's going to take some know how...

Box it up....send it out....should not be more than $75.00

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Mog: yes the inner rod came completely out.

E-TECH: from this point is setting the inner rod beyond the standard oil and bleed?

YHGEORGE: future spring changes should be easy now that i see the error of my way

Now that its done and ive cooled I agree, it would have been one helluva funny video

Edited by uuc328

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You have to set the clevis correct on the rod to get the correct number of clicks , it's a bit of a pain and trial and error

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I would disassemble the shock ...use small T handle to push needle down...you then screw Clevis on so that your clicker has 22 clicks and tighten jam nut at that point.

When the nut is tight you should be able to run clicker in 22 or so clicks...and then lightly push needle down with T handle while you loosen clicker....be sure needle is down before you begin the bleed process.

Fwiw never remove a Clevis off a pressurized shock

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No worries, after this I dont ever plan on unscrewing the clevis again.

Seems simple enough but I have another question. Using the t handle to move the needle further up and in what controls getting it seated at the clevis clicker? Does this happen as part of the bleed and nitrogen charge? Just to confirm the clicker should be at full hard once the needle is in and im ready to tighten the clevis? Or is this the trial and error part?

Edited by uuc328

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Can't explain with text....sorry...

Gas pressure is what keeps the needle down once it's together.

Ok trying....it has to do with how far the Clevis is screwed onto the shaft......to far and you will not have enough clicks.....make since?

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I would disassemble the shock ...use small T handle to push needle down...you then screw Clevis on so that your clicker has 22 clicks and tighten jam nut at that point.

When the nut is tight you should be able to run clicker in 22 or so clicks...and then lightly push needle down with T handle while you loosen clicker....be sure needle is down before you begin the bleed process.

Fwiw never remove a Clevis off a pressurized shock

Ah I see, read you loud and clear now. This requires disassembly beyond what I have tools for. I dont have anything to remove the bottom plate end, part #12

As much as I want to tackle this on my own I fear I am at the mercy of the suspension shop. Stay tuned...

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Backup shop quoted me $110 from where it is now, still unable to reach the tech where the work was originally performed. 

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$110 not terrible.....I could have it together in 20 min....75 bucks

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and I'd gladly pay you that if you were local. Once I get it back together my regular service should be much easier. Next time I hope to get out for the cost of oil and whatever ~145psi of nitrogen runs me. 

Thanks again everyone!

Edited by uuc328

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Very lucky you didn't take something out with the rebound rod. Did it contact the wall? Any damage to it? As stated you simply need to position the clevis where you have your range of 22 clicks and then back the lock nut up. You can keep the rod seated by applying pressure to it from the piston end of the rod. The oil under pressure does this once assembled and charged.

 

I don't think you'll have much luck putting a case to the first shop unless if you specifically advised them the clevis had been removed. Yeah they should have checked it, but then again not everyone goes over the whole shock top to bottom.

 

Good luck.

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Got it back from shop #1. Went over all the details including the clevis and rod removal and loss of clicker range. I saw him separate the shaft assembly from the body and remove the bladder but I must have stepped out when he set the rod and clickers. Its all back together including the spring but the rebound clicker still only turns 3 clicks max. I made sure to point it out before leaving and even had him put a tool on it to feel it for himself. I was told to ride it for a few hours and continue to lightly work the rebound adjuster. Does that sound legit?

Edited by uuc328

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