Best Mod (non engine power related)

[Gsxrstuntdrz]

I run MSR Soft foot pegs. Wider than stock, nice grippy pattern that won't tear up your boots. Teeth on the end to stop you from slipping off. My favorite part though is the fact that they are contoured and not flat. Helps when leaning forward and backward, you still have your feet completely on the peg instead of just on the edge. Great for standups. I think somebody makes pegs that swivel now but I've never tried them.

Edited April 29, 2014 by Gsxrstuntdrz

[Marzzz]

Hand guards, case savers, skid plate and decent tires are basically manditory.

 

Springs for my weight, time spent adjusting suspension, higher bars and correct jetting all made it easier to ride. 

 

The IMS 2.6 tank made a subtle but noticeable difference in where the weight sits on the bike and my ability to get forward on the seat, having a visual reference for fuel was also excellent. Going to a 3AH LiFePO battery which dropped 8lbs off the top of the bike was likewise a good move.

 

Although it DID directly impact power, getting a lighter exhaust helped the top-heaviness of the bike as well.

 

-Grant

I have never been too concerned with weight and the DRZ.  Next time I replace the battery though I will be getting a smaller lithium battery.  How is the cranking power with your battery?  I went from stock battery to SSW super starter or whatever its called.  Now that I think of it, replacing the stock battery was one of the best mods I ever did.

 

I would like a bigger tank being that I usaully do 100miles then a fill up.  I know I could go quite a big longer but I prefer not to use reserve.

[barker14]

If the bike doesn't need the choke cold you're probably a little rich on the pilot.

Im thinking the same. I have to use the choke to start mine cold. Only needs it for about 30 seconds but it does usually need it.

[jreed1337]

Good tires makes a world of difference!   ?

 

First upgrade on any vehicle I have.  

[Grantmac]

I have never been too concerned with weight and the DRZ.  Next time I replace the battery though I will be getting a smaller lithium battery.  How is the cranking power with your battery?  I went from stock battery to SSW super starter or whatever its called.  Now that I think of it, replacing the stock battery was one of the best mods I ever did.

 

I would like a bigger tank being that I usaully do 100miles then a fill up.  I know I could go quite a big longer but I prefer not to use reserve.

 

I built the pack myself and I didn't use any sort of balancing circuit, as a result I haven't had the lifespan which other people have. The ones which are specifically made for motorsport should be much more reliable.

 

Starting power is fantastic though, especially in the winter and the battery doesn't fade AT ALL until it hits the low power cut-off. That is the real problem with them, you have no idea they are dying until you are stuck.

 

 

The IMS is the exact same size as stock, but a different shape. They aren't very common and I'm not sure they are available at all anymore.

 

-Grant

[Gsxrstuntdrz]

To be completely honest I'm not that impressed with the LiPo batteries. I have the big 14ah Shorai in my bike. Definitely smaller and lighter which is a big plus, but I have never once got a consistent crank. Every single time the cams hit the buckets it freezes up, I have to release the button so it springs backwards just a bit and press it again so it'll turn over. Granted, it's a high compression big bore with no decompression and upgraded heavy duty valve springs so it's far from a stock motor but I was expecting it to at least be able to spin freely. If my battery dies I'm SOL, forget trying to kick start this beast.

[npm]

What about the suspension made the drz better?

 

I weigh ~195 with gear so I changed the springs to better handle the weight and had the valve stacks in the forks worked on.  I had a competent suspension guy do the work.  I told him the kind of terrain I ride most often, how aggressive a rider I am, and etc. and he did is magic. It truly was a night and day difference on the tight single track I usually ride.   I know you aren't asking about motor mods but I'll have to recommend the FCR-MX, makes the throttle response much better and is easier to ride in the woods as you don't have the delay in the power hit as you would with a vacuum carb.

[npm]

 

 

The IMS is the exact same size as stock, but a different shape. They aren't very common and I'm not sure they are available at all anymore.

 

-Grant

 

I think the tank you are thinking of is the replacement tank for the E from IMS.  It is the same size as the stock tank but holds the fuel lower and makes the bike feel a bit lighter on the trails.  I put one on my S and really like it though it was a bit of fiddling to get it to fit.  IMS and Clarke are two after market tanks that come to mind.  There are several sizes.

[DrzDick]

If the bike doesn't need the choke cold you're probably a little rich on the pilot.

True, but if you're in a warm environment the choke is only really needed to make her catch and she'll idle without the choke.

 

Using the FCR you can twist the throttle a couple of times to actuate the pumper before hitting the button. The fuel squirt will richen the mixture for long enough for her to catch and settle without the choke.

I don't use this as I like to ride slowly straight away and not to annoy my neighbours, so I start on the choke and ride on the choke for a minute or so.... but then I mainly ride in the colder weather.

[lodom89]

Large capacity fuel tank (mine is a Clarke 3.9). Good for a 200 mile day of fun! Fat bars and the adapters raises the grips to my perfect height for sitting or standing.

[Grantmac]

I think the tank you are thinking of is the replacement tank for the E from IMS.  It is the same size as the stock tank but holds the fuel lower and makes the bike feel a bit lighter on the trails.  I put one on my S and really like it though it was a bit of fiddling to get it to fit.  IMS and Clarke are two after market tanks that come to mind.  There are several sizes.

 

You are correct! My bike is an E (well KLX400R technically) and that tank mostly goes straight on. My only complaint is that the choke won't pull out very easily. I'm going to be making a shorter one soon.

I much prefer it to the stock tank, I'd rather carry any extra fuel on my back then in one of the large tanks. Then again I think I've carried extra exactly twice.

 

 

-Grant

[npm]

My only complaint is that the choke won't pull out very easily. I'm going to be making a shorter one soon.

 

-Grant

 

I'm in agreement about the choke knob.  Mine has a shortened shaft so it's better, I really only need it on cold days, most of the time it turn the throttle a few times and the accelerator pump puts enough gas in the carb to start.

[DrD]

Rekluse Clutch, Scotts damper... Nuff said ?

Edited April 30, 2014 by Dr. D

[Marzzz]

Recluse Clutch, Scotts damper... Nuff said ?

I have always wanted to ride with a rekluse clutch, but I guess my supermoto would not really benefit from it.  No desire to get a dirtbike again...I hit too many trees.

[topaz250]

lost passenger pegs, no passengers ......

 

Seat concepts seat, knobbies, offroad protection, 14/47 gearing, Clarke tank  and wider foot pegs

[DrD]

I have always wanted to ride with a rekluse clutch, but I guess my supermoto would not really benefit from it.  No desire to get a dirtbike again...I hit too many trees.

Safer at a stop light or in traffic... Leave it in gear and scan the rear mirror easy out if little Suzy is texting and tries to plow through you at a light

[BurnCycle]

+1 to many of the suggestions above. ?

 

I would add to the mod list for E and S conventional fork models... a Fork Brace.

That coupled with my www.Pro-Action.com suspension and Scotts Steering Damper made a vast improvement in the handling of my ride.

 

A good rear rack is an asset. I want to change mine to a Tonns.

[Knobbyaddiction]

1st mod, case covers. Break that case open and nothing else happens for a while

 

2nd mod, front fork revalve and resprung. Some do this first.

 

3rd mod, Seat concepts.

 

4th mod, rear light housing/tail tidy. Get that queer looking monstrosity off of there.

 

5th mod, Drop front sprocket down a tooth and then change the rear out for your style of riding. If hilly dirt, put a 50 tooth on the rear.

 

Rest varies too much to get into. But the airbox and stock carb mod doesnt do as much as everyone says, and some get dirt in their carbs/engines. No matter what some say.

 

Oh, and tires are gigh on the list. I swear by the Pirelli MT-43 in the rear. Air it down to 7 lbs off road and thank me later. Avoid mud though.

Edited April 30, 2014 by Knobbyaddiction

[Qqqqqqqqqqqq]

Ohlins Modded Front forks , Scotts Damper , Pivot PEGZ .

Edited April 30, 2014 by ITS CHOOKEN

[Craigo]

Decent tyres