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too much kick from shock after re-valve

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2007 kx250f. i recently revalved my first shock. i am getting way too much kick using RT's settings. at the moment i have the rebound turned all the way in and still kicking up bad. compression feels pretty good though. any ideas would be greatly appreciated. here is the way its valved per RT's suggestions.

 

using RT Gold Valve G3-LD (low deflection)

rider-215 lbs. (nekkid). front of pack C-rider. Woods/trail (east ky.)

SMGV 5003 type 3 selected

 

piston bleed hole--1.6mm. rebound seperator valve not used.

rear sag-103mm.

using 3wt. shock fluid.

 

cl-2010---(10) .20x44.....-----------------....... rl --(4) .20x40

 

clx-1528--.15x28.....-----------------------........rlx -- .10x26

 

ch143   ...-------------------------------------........rh -- .25x40

.20x44  ...-------------------------------------------...     .25x38

.20x42  ...-------------------------------------------...     .25x36

.20x40  ...-------------------------------------------...     .25x34

.25x38  ...------------------------------------------- ...    .30x32

.25x36  ...-------------------------------------------...     .30x30

.25x34  ...-------------------------------------------...     .30x28

.25x32  ...-------------------------------------------...     .30x26

.25x30

.25x28

.25x26

.25x24

.30x22

Edited by ridinredneck

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It will always kick with the rebound fully in , re valve it to get the adjuster at 12 and it won't kick, you have to be careful to adjust rebound if the comp is too soft however

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sounds like compression is too stiff to me. You mentioned it kicking when you hit a log or rock. It's kicking because your shock isn't compressing quick enough to soak up the bump. I like to run my stuff on the soft side so it doesn't kick on that sort of stuff and I'm lighter than you, but I would recommend 2 or 3 or the 10 .2x44 low speed shims. I run my crf450 with 5 .2's for the low speed.

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I'm surprised it's even rideable with the rebound cranked in.

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i started with the rebound at 14 out. tried it at 16 and 18 out and it was even worse. i have the compression at full soft at the moment. and yes im sure that is the stack. called RT and they confirmed that is what should work.

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Try going softer on compression and see how it feels.

It's really hard to make recommendations because I have no idea what the port geometry on the racetech valves looks like, so it's not comparable to any stock stuff. However, 10X 44x0.2 face shims seems like a lot for a 250 woods bike. I think I have 4X or 5X 44.2 face shims and a 20mm clamp on my 300, it's plush but never bottoms. Even on bigger 4-strokes I don't think I would want that many face shims.

I'd take out 4 face shims, set the rebound back to 12-16 clicks out, and see how it feels.

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It took a while to decipher your stacks. Not sure what it looks like on a computer, on a mobile it's kinda confusing, lol.

That setup looks familiar. Compression overall too stiff and low speed rebound too soft. Race Tech really needs a little more r&d on their woods setups. (sorry Paul, but it's true)

That valve has huge ports and the stacks are probably gonna look a little stiffer than they actually are.

Here's what I would do...

compression

go from cL2010 to 2007

keep the crossover cLx 1528

and go from cH143 to 136

rebound

go from rL2004 to 2007

rLx1026 to 1028

and keep the present rH

rebound 13

compression 12

high speed 2 turns out

I think that would get you really close. Within a few clicks one way or the other.

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It took a while to decipher your stacks. Not sure what it looks like on a computer, on a mobile it's kinda confusing, lol.

That setup looks familiar. Compression overall too stiff and low speed rebound too soft. Race Tech really needs a little more r&d on their woods setups. (sorry Paul, but it's true)

That valve has huge ports and the stacks are probably gonna look a little stiffer than they actually are.

Here's what I would do...

compression

go from cL2010 to 2007

keep the crossover cLx 1528

and go from cH143 to 136

rebound

go from rL2004 to 2007

rLx1026 to 1028

and keep the present rH

rebound 13

compression 12

high speed 2 turns out

I think that would get you really close. Within a few clicks one way or the other.

i will give that a try. i know the settings you recommended on the forks worked better. hopefully this will solve the issue and get me flying through the woods again lol. i had another 2007 kx250f and traded it to a 2009 kx450f 2 days ago. i really like that fuel injection. a bit heavier than my 250 but it makes up for it in other ways. it already had suspension work done and sprung for my weight. it feels real good. i think a little tweaking on the clickers will get it about perfect for me. but i still need to get the 250 done. its gonna be my go to when we hit the tighter trails.

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well about your problem with kicking rear end ,to much rebound ,almost in every case thats what seems to be the problem ,i done it myself 100 of times and thought it were a comp problem ,but maybe im sloww but finally got it solved out :-) hope you like your 450 awesome machines

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It took a while to decipher your stacks. Not sure what it looks like on a computer, on a mobile it's kinda confusing, lol.

That setup looks familiar. Compression overall too stiff and low speed rebound too soft. Race Tech really needs a little more r&d on their woods setups. (sorry Paul, but it's true)

That valve has huge ports and the stacks are probably gonna look a little stiffer than they actually are.

Here's what I would do...

compression

go from cL2010 to 2007

keep the crossover cLx 1528

and go from cH143 to 136

rebound

go from rL2004 to 2007

rLx1026 to 1028

and keep the present rH

rebound 13

compression 12

high speed 2 turns out

I think that would get you really close. Within a few clicks one way or the other.

i tried those stacks today. i wasnt able to take a good ride but i did set up two obstacles, a log about 9 inches in diameter and a stack of boards about 6 inches high. it felt a whole lot better. i hit them in 2nd and 3rd gear and was happy with the results. i will take it for a good trail ride as soon as i can and get a better idea of how its working. thanks for the help.

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Can you post what the actual new stacks are? I don't have my RaceTech magic decoder ring.  :thumbsup:

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Can you post what the actual new stacks are? I don't have my RaceTech magic decoder ring.  :thumbsup:

:lol:

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Can you post what the actual new stacks are? I don't have my RaceTech magic decoder ring.  :thumbsup:

lmao  :lol:   yea man, no problem. i will dig the papers back out later tonight or in the morning and post it up.

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Does it kick to the left/right or straight up? Does it kick on low speed obstacles such as a small jump or a high speed obstacle such as a log?

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Does it kick to the left/right or straight up? Does it kick on low speed obstacles such as a small jump or a high speed obstacle such as a log?

it was kicking straight up. and it would kick on small jumps and logs at anything above a slow second gear. the faster i would go, the more it would kick up

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Can you post what the actual new stacks are? I don't have my RaceTech magic decoder ring.  :thumbsup:

here are the new stacks. but i went with the ch139 instead of 136. i didnt want it too soft.

cl--(10) .20x44

 

clx--. (1) .15x28

 

ch--

.20x44

.20x42

.20x40

.20x38

.20x36

.20x34

.20x32

.25x30

.25x28

.25x26

.25x24

.30x22

 

rl--(7) .20x40

 

rlx--(1).10x28

 

rh--

.25x40

.25x38

.25x36

.25x34

.30x32

.30x30

.30x28

.30x26

Edited by ridinredneck

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it was kicking straight up. and it would kick on small jumps and logs at anything above a slow second gear. the faster i would go, the more it would kick up

I wasn't concerned about your speed, I was more asking about your high and low speed damping. Where is your highspeed clicker set at?

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Oh no, I hope I don't need a new Race Tech magic decoder ring. The cH 139 stack should work for you; but, that's 3 more face shims on both the compression and rebound side of the valve than I was trying to recommend. Just making sure you know that. If something got "lost in translation" I'm sorry, I'll be sure to post the actual stacks instead of cH and rH, blah blah blah next time.

That's still got to be better than what you had though. Just not what it could be ( in my opinion anyway). That low speed rebound stack is probably gonna be a little stiff. The rear may "pack up" on a succession of bumps making the rear harsh. Just be sure to watch for it and remember that turning the rebound adjuster out also makes the compression a little softer.

Hope it works good for you and keep us posted.

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