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05 450R blown motor

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I have a 05 450R, that well had sized the piston. Yep locked it down, and the kick start won’t move either. Just for those who will ask.

I know of know what happened. You see the damn water pump on this thing has always had an issue, of water coming out the weep hole. We all know this model was notorious for doing this. Let me tell you I done everything that you could possibly do to fix this issue. If it’s on the parts fiche, it got it new. Did the seal both ways just for shits and giggles. Replaced the counter shaft bearing. You name it- I did it. Finally I took it to a guy that I thought could solve my issue for good.. Wrong!! He had it for 3 weeks, charged me $185, and all he did was find a bearing in the casing that seemed to be loose in the housing it was in. Guess what he did to fix it. GREEN Lock tight.. it did work for the first few rides, until the last ride, when she locked down. When I checked the coolant level it was almost bone dry, then when I went to drain the oil, I got about 10 oz of coolant before the oil started to come out. “No Brass” was in the oil so I think my crank is ok.. no matter I a have a spare in that dept.

 

What would cause the coolant to be in the oil?

 

My questions are?

1.What in the world can I do to fix this water pump?  I guess find the bearing with green lock tight, and replace that whole case with a another one is all I can think of.

2. Should I rebuild this motor, or just buy another one off of Ebay, I figure the price will be about the same. Only thing is you never know what you are getting that way. At least if I Rebuild it, I’ll know what iam getting.. that would be the plan right?

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Ok. First off you said you replaced the cb bearing. The cb has two bearings(wp also has one) and the one that furthest(left side of the motor) is the one that goes out the most and causes the MOST vibration. If you didn't replace this one then that more than likely your problem. Bearings are only 3-5 bucks each, the most expensive part of all of this is the case cover gaskets SO if I was you I'd go back through and replace every damn seal and bearing down the line. The left side bearing is a pain to locate on the parts diagram but it's there and if you can't locate it then let us know and somebody bored on here will locate it for you..

Second part the motor locking up- if you don't have a service Manual then I'd get one and start reading it(hard back). Tear her apart and see what you have. If your lucky the piston just got caught up(swelled up) in the cylinder and that's it. Me- there's no way I'd either get the crank checked to make sure it's perfect or buy a hot rods crank to replace it before taking all that time and money in gaskets to put it all back together and have to go back through it a month later.

No way in hell I'd just order a random motor and hope all will be good. There's no telling what that motors been through. Some teenage kid prob out it through the ringer, never changed the filters of oil and sold it cheap before Christmas one year..

Good news is- and there's no telling yet but it sounds like your cylinder head with be fine and that's actually the most expensive single part of all of this... SO if I was you I'd find a manual and take my time to make sure it all gets done right this time.. Running a motor while it's leaking coolant.. Like they hold that much coolant to begin with and knowing they get stupid hot, your lucky a bomb didn't go off between your legs and really &%$#@! you up. That wasn't too smart sir.

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the cranks are known to seize up on the big end.. i had both of my 08 450's seize within a month of each other, there are rod kits available from pro x for about 120 on ebay you will have to send the crank out to have it pressed apart and back together, it is not much more for a new crankshaft. i like the OEM cranks over the hot rod cranks. the water pump seals seem to go because of the shaft, some people have made their own recovery bottles that can help as far as losing water and overheating the bike. just make sure to change balancer seals and bearings as well as crank main bearings and seals,i would look at the valves stock intake valves are known to wear fast. there is a steel intake conversion kit that is about 100 with springs. also buy the honda OEM service manual much better than the aftermarket repair manual.

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going bananas on the wp shaft and seal and bearing isnt the answer. The shaft runs separately from the balancer drive. There's enough slop in the flats that run the WP shaft that the bearings on the counter balancer shouldnt impact the water pump. Ive found that there is enough run out in the shaft for the seal to run off the sealing area on the shaft though if the seal isnt driven into the case with careful verve. It should also get a dab of water proof grease when its assembled. Another issue is guys lay the bikes down, and blast the shit out of the bottom with the pressure washer. The issue is, you blow a piece of dirt up into the weep hole and foul the water pump seal. The trans isnt under pressure so its generaly unaffected. Honda solved the issue by going to an even more (IMO) finicky mechanical seal in the later bikes (similar to the ATV's and the XR650s)

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