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My 2013 YZ250 build


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So I thought I would start a build for my new 2013 YZ250. I had originally only planned to do the bare minimum when it came to mods, but I can never leave well enough alone.

 

So here is what I started out with, a brand new 2013 YZ250 that I picked up from Cycle Center in Culpeper, VA.

 

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I took it home and stripped off the stickers I didn't want.

 

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That night I ordered some parts for it. An hour meter, Renthal tall bars, grips, and a 51T sprocket, a blue Acerbis rear fender, Twin Air filters, and a Works Connection glide plate. This is how it currently sits.

 

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Happy owner!

 

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Edited by MXRider72
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Just today I ordered a GYTR off road flywheel. It was a bit more than the others on the market, but I feel it's worth it compared to adding a weight to the existing part. I also ordered some Lightspeed pegs as the stockers are very tiny and not that confidence inspiring.

 

I also want to order the GYTR exhaust kit. It's only about ten dollars more than the regular FMF stuff, and I like the look of this stuff a bit better.

 

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I also need to address the front brakes. Looking at Ride Engineering stainless brake line kit, and their 270mm rotor.

 

sm_KX-00270-KT.jpg

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Also thinking of doing the 3 YZ450 clutch spring mod. Anyone done it? Yeah or nay? MXA magazine seemed to like it. Also maybe looking at having the head shaved, some say it's necessary, others not. Not sure what to believe, I haven't noticed any issues in the short time I've had it tho.

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Just today I ordered a GYTR off road flywheel. It was a bit more than the others on the market, but I feel it's worth it compared to adding a weight to the existing part. I also ordered some Lightspeed pegs as the stockers are very tiny and not that confidence inspiring.

I also want to order the GYTR exhaust kit. It's only about ten dollars more than the regular FMF stuff, and I like the look of this stuff a bit better.

aTDo_IMO2FqvKCRrNXQk34bSZUYg9KBMvkxZ-y8V

b6av6GAj-wwTxd-mBSnbLELvg00AIKeErEofoiyx

I also need to address the front brakes. Looking at Ride Engineering stainless brake line kit, and their 270mm rotor.

sm_KX-00270-KT.jpg

The RE front brake is a Galfer unit. Ive been running and testing the 270mm unit, the same one you pictured. I highly recommend it... Better then any KTM unit!....

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Also thinking of doing the 3 YZ450 clutch spring mod. Anyone done it? Yeah or nay? MXA magazine seemed to like it. Also maybe looking at having the head shaved, some say it's necessary, others not. Not sure what to believe, I haven't noticed any issues in the short time I've had it tho.

Shave the head and retard the ignition...

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I say leave the engine alone as I have the same bike with almost the same additions except no pipe. I have won championships with the stock engine. Yamaha hasn't changed much for a reason. ITS BULIT PROOF. When you start messing with things inside the engine in my experience with Yamaha bikes things go wrong and go wrong fast and hard.

I say run it and only make changes that are necessary to your ridding style or terrain.

GoYamaha

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I didn't realize that RE rotor was a Galfer. That's great.

Regarding the head and timing, mind explaining what the reasoning is for me? Is there an issue with the stock setup? Or is it merely to get some more power out of the bike?

Shaving the head and retarding the timing both increase mid/bottom and help to eliminate pinging. The bike in general will run better and be easier to jet...1 is free, the other is under $100....

Nothing wrong with stock but that doesn't mean it can't be improved upon....

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Check your squish clearance and compression.  If it's wrong then modify the head or shave the cylinder to get it to what it's designed to be, and don't put up with the manufacturing error that usually comes from the factory.

 

Some owners might get lucky. Most just don't know what they are missing and assume "it's just a 2 stroke".
 

Make it right and expect any combination of broader power, more power, less sensitive to jetting or fuel choice, cooler engine temps, less engine wear, less throttle hesitation, or smoother idling.

 

I love my YZ but I get tired of people placing Yamaha (or any brand) up on some glorified pedestal.  Yes Yamaha make some great stuff, but they get a lot wrong. Bikes are made to a price so the manufacturer can make a profit.  The YZ 2 strokes are a special case. The factory tooling for the YZ motor is getting very old and worn. Errors become more common. Stock aint perfect. They depend on YZ 2 stroke buyers to be a little ignorant.

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Get a CRF caliper and MC from ebay and get a braided line first before you try the rotor. I have $70 in my setup. Got lucky with a $40 complete brake setup with ASV lever and sold the mount bracket for $15, HEL line for $45. It's awesome.

I dig the looks of the gytr stuff ?

I'm not sure that would please me. I haven't ridden a single Japanese bike that has stock brakes anywhere near what my KTM had. I know the larger rotor and stainless line will get me where I want it to be. Even if it's not the cheapest solution, that's ok.

And yeah, the GYTR stuff is very nice.

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I'm not sure that would please me. I haven't ridden a single Japanese bike that has stock brakes anywhere near what my KTM had. I know the larger rotor and stainless line will get me where I want it to be. Even if it's not the cheapest solution, that's ok.

And yeah, the GYTR stuff is very nice.

 

All I know is when I hit the brakes it stops! Worlds better than stock yamaha. It's cheaper than a rotor kit and easier to modulate.

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How does it run on pump premium?  If it's borderline, THEN the head work WITH correct squish band setting IS THE SOLUTION.   (Of course, check your timing.)   Even if it seems OK now or IF you use race fuel, you just might be able to run pump premium after the head work.  It's really a win-win.  Someone told me it also cures dandruff, athletes foot, impetigo, constipation, pimples, and squeaky shoes.  I'm not sure about those, though.

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How does it run on pump premium? If it's borderline, THEN the head work WITH correct squish band setting IS THE SOLUTION. (Of course, check your timing.) Even if it seems OK now or IF you use race fuel, you just might be able to run pump premium after the head work. It's really a win-win. Someone told me it also cures dandruff, athletes foot, impetigo, constipation, pimples, and squeaky shoes. I'm not sure about those, though.

I only plan on running the bike on VP C9 which has a pump octane number of 96. No pump gas with ethanol for me.

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I only plan on running the bike on VP C9 which has a pump octane number of 96. No pump gas with ethanol for me.

I agree with NO ethanol.  I'm lucky in that MInnesota has a LOT of stations that have non-ethanol at the pump.  Some states have a lot of locations, some have hardly any.  If one of those stations wasn't so close to me, I'd be using race fuel too.  I'm lucky in that my YZ runs great on pump NON-ethanol premium.  I've even tried to lug it and make it ping.  It wont!

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Nothing major came in yet. I've been spending money on new safety gear instead. I got a Leatt GPX 5.5, new Fly pants and jersey and a new pair of Alpinestars Tech 7 boots. That was a big chunk of change.

I need to pick up the GYTR flywheel tomorrow. These did come today though. Light speed pegs. Big difference over stock. Next up is the Galfer 270 rotor and stainless lines.

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