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KTM 250sx

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Hi all

I am a impulsive person I recently bought a ktm 250 SX 2006 when i saw it in the bike shop! It is spotless and never been raced. There is not a scratch on it. I contacted the pervious owner and he said he almost never rode it because the power scared the living shit out of him!

Now my issue: I am new to dirt biking and went riding with guys that do enduros! Im still not even close to there riding experience and i were all over the place! Now i want to know must i sell it and buy a exc or a xcw or keep the sx and convert it for bush riding? Really don't know what to do! Is the conversion worth it or is it just beter to sell it! I really like the bike but don't know if it is any good for bush rides seeing that there is not any mx tracks near me and all that i can do here is bush rides!?! Hand guards, flywheel, bigger tank is so expensive in South Africa! Please any advise will help! ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399071661.516084.jpg

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For now I think you should just keep riding it. Maybe add a part at a time, but if you are that new just give it some time. Start with a flywheel weight and see what that does for it.

That is a VERY nice bike, congrats....

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Keep it.  Add a part here and there and you will be fine.  You will also get used to the power.  As for parts needed:

1. hand guards if you have single track with trees

2. skid plate only if you need rock protection

3. I have found that a G2 throttle cam better tames my SX than a flywheel weight (I have both).

4. as your skills build, you will benefit from a revalve, but I would not bother with that now.

5. If you can pick up a deal on a used 18" rear wheel, that bike works very well with a trials tire, and you will save a ton of money too, as trials tires last way longer than knobby tires.  At least one manufacturer (Vee rubber)  now makes a 19" trials tire.  I have seen them, but never rode one.  Every 18" trials tire I have tried has worked very well.  

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Thanks so much for your reply and the advice!!! I will keep it then! Tell me is it worth changing the power valve springs! I turned in the power valve 2 rotations in today and made a huge difference with the hit only kicked in later! Should i consider the green spring or should i keep riding the original spring?

Is there any cheap long range gas tanks that looks good on this ktm!?

Thanks again for all your help!!!!!!!

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I have a 2006 250sx. I have had it since 2005. It has been a great bike. The power is pretty easily manipulated to do what ever you want. It is an awesome MX bike. I now have a 2011 250sx that I race so I have converted my 06 to a trail bike. It doesn't take much to make it a really good trail bike. The first thing I did was to put a FMF turbine core sparky on it. Then I put the green P.V. spring in it. I put the soft (stock) springs in it so it soaks up the rocks and stuff much better. The last thing I did was to put a 120 rear tire on it. This is like having a heavier flywheel except that it is much better. You can change it out very easily if you don't like it. It also is like having an 18" rear wheel in that it is much better for defense against pinch flats. The only other thing that would be nice to have is a kick stand. They are out there but I haven't bought one yet. I just lean my bike up against a tree when we stop.

So lets do the math. FMF sparky - $140

Green P.V. spring - Came with bike, $3 if you have to buy one.

Soft springs - Came with bike. $0

120 rear tire. - $80 the next time you have to buy a new rear tire - I got mine for $0 out of the trash when the Dunlop guy was changing tires at the track. It had only been run in one direction. Perfect for riding in the rocks of the Sierra Nevada mountains!

Total investment = $140.00

 

P.S. With proper jetting I get 50 miles of trail riding with the stock MX tank. I don't want to ride more than 50 miles without going back to the truck for food and rest so it works out great. If I wanted I would get a tank from an XC off of ebay.

Edited by Larry63r
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You can always add a Rekluse.... I got to riding very late in my life the rekluse alowed me to close the gap with guys that have ridden all of their life... I also agree with what the others have said..

Edited by wwillf01

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Hi all

Thanks for all the help and advise!

I think i will first go for the green spring, hand guards and a bigger tank!

I will then do the re-valve and 18" wheel!

Is the rekluse clutch and flywheel really needed seeing that it is so expensive!?

Again thanks for all the advise!!

I appreciate it!!

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Flywheel weight is cheap. Get the heaviest that steahly offers.

Use a softer spring whichever makes it more manageable,

A g2 throttle can also work wonders as they make the throttle less touchy in the first bit of the throttle pull.

Flywheel weight is cheap. Get the heaviest that steahly offers.

Use a softer spring whichever makes it more manageable,

A g2 throttle can also work wonders as they make the throttle less touchy in the first bit of the throttle pull.

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Flywheel weights, Throttle Cams, pipes etc etc all help in making the power more manageable, BUT it all means nothing if you can't put it to the ground. You have a SX bike and specifically one of the worse stock suspended MX bikes. The suspension is going to absolutely horrible offroad. Get it sprung and revalved before you do anything else....

I personally don't own one single bike that the first mod wasn't suspension....

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I love the suspension an my 2006 250sx. It has some of the best suspension that was on any bike in 2006. Way better than that mushy crap that came on jap bikes! For off road the soft stock springs are great. For MX it needed stiffer springs. I weigh 220lbs.The stock springs are perfect for my son who only weighs 140 lbs.

That only thing it really needs for off road is a spark arrester. Throttle cams, flywheel weights and auto clutches are all just gimmicks that don't really do much except to lighten your wallet.

You can waste a lot of money on crap that it doesn't need or you can spend it on gas. Burning gas in your bike is the only thing that is guaranteed to make you faster. The more you ride, the faster you get!

The 2006 250sx has one of the mellowest, easiest to ride power bands of all the KTM 250s that I have owned over the years. It is a low to mid range motor. It is not as fast as my 2011 is or my 2001 was but it is just as fast and much easer to ride fast than my 2003 250sx was. It is truly an awesome bike and that is why I still have it and have no plans to sell it.

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Hi

Thanks for all the advice but now i really don't know what to do anymore!!

Wish one of you oaks just lived close to me so we can sit down have a few beers and help me decide what route to go!

Thanks again for the advice!

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Really it seems you do know what to do. Just ride the bike as is. Nothing is needed to make your bike a "bush" bike. Handguards are optional, if youre punching a lot of bushes and don't like that, buy them. Larger fuel tank is optional, if you find that you and your buddies are going long distances, first they will tell you, or should tell you with their alleged experience, youre not going to make the ride and to carry extra gas, in which case you buy the larger fuel tank. 18 inch wheel is optional, you want one just because go ahead and buy it, the 19 and difference of 1 inch isn't going to give you any trouble. At this point, considering parts, you practically have a 250 xc. As a beginner rider with a first bike and not doing any cross country, woods, or desert racing you don't need any of these "xc-like" parts. What you probably do need, I supposed depending on your location, is a spark arrestor if you don't have one, for legal reasons.

 

Otherwise, if you got money, and want to dump it all, go ahead and spend to your hearts desire...

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Agree with what many others have said. For now just put miles on it. As you become comfortable on it you will find out what you need. Riding off-road I would definitely go for some hand guards. Not only to protect your digits but it helps from snapping levers when you lay it down.

Properly setup suspension makes a night and day difference. But again... ride it until you are comfortable enough with the bike to tell a suspension shop how the bike feels and what it does and doesn't do well. You will be happier with the end result.

I think you can tame the bike with just power valve springs and playing around with gearing. No real need for a flywheel weight or any of that stuff unless you are doing mountain goat single track riding.

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I agree with the above, just ride it. I know some faster guys swear to revalve your susepnsion right away, but for a new rider I disagree, waste of money. Like Hezzdown said, until you can tell the tuner what you like and don't like it's useless. What works for one guy won't for another, suspension is about what the rider wants, not one size fits all.

Nothing will make you a better, or more comfortable rider faster than seat time.

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Hi all

Sorry for only replying now!

I really want to say thank you for all the advice and helping me open my mind!!

I have decided i will be keeping the bike!

Now i need some more help!

I ordered a green auxiliary spring and received it today to take the hit out until my skills improve! But nowhere on the internet i can find how exactly to install it!

Do any one know of a video or a step by step instruction!?

Thanks again !

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Slaven's racing has a video:

At its simplest, lean bike on left side, remove two bolts, replace inner spring and replace two bolts. Video link a over overs all the details on it though as well as adjusting preload on spring and ensuring powervalve is opening at proper rpm.

Edited by Bikeman2013
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Thanks for that video!

I have done it and works great.

Tell me i watched a shit load of youtube videos and read a lot about the revalveing. Is it really necessary seeing that i can adjust my suspension as it shows in the manual?

I saw a few videos on youtube where guys ride enduros on mx bikes! So that is why i want to know if it is really necessary?

Can someone tell me as well is it true that if you ride a 2 stroke flat out that you will seise the engine? A guy at a dodgy bike shop in another town told me if i go flat out for more than 10 seconds at a time the engine will seise! That the engine does not get oil, but I thought that the engine will get enough oil from the fuel mixture! He says that i should close the throttle every 10 to 15 seconds!

Thanks for everyone's response!

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