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Tail running light does not work, brake like does?

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My tail running lights wont turn on with the IGN or anything, but the brake light works fine.  I have an integrated tail light.

 

From what I can see with the tail light

 

RED YELLOW BLACK wires, I tested Red and Black and got a spike with the brake lever.

 

I tested Yellow and Black and got nothing.  I traced back two "connectors" back and still get the same reading as way up at the tail light.  By the 2nd connector the colors are all switched up (its lame and makes things difficult) but either way I'm testing a brown and black wire and get nothing, while the other wire gets a brake-spike again (There are only three wires I'm testing).  

 

I assume yellow (or the non reactive wire) is my running light

 

Anyways, I just recently installed a fleabay IGN switch, where TWO wires on the bike I don't know what the hell they do, they are grey and brown.  The fleabay switch has two wires extra also, green and black-white.  

 

I don't need these connected to get the bike started and running, but either variation of the two smaller wires don't seem to turn my tail running light on.

 

So any ideas?

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Gray wire needs to be connected to the brown wire to power the tail light.  Brown wire is the Suzuki tail light wire.  Gray wire gets power from the orange wire when the key switch is ON.

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How does the grey wire connect to the brown wire?  My IGN has 4 colors, green, stripped black, black and red.  My harness is grey, orange, red, and brown

 

The red is to red

The black is to the orange

 

Should I switch them around?  The green and stripped black IGN wires arent being used atm and whenever I put them with the brown or grey wire it does nothing.

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Your original key switch had 3 positions - OFF, ON and PARK (which was the tail light only).  The switch internally connects red to brown in PARK.  In the ON position gray is connected to brown internally.  Your replacement switch as only 2 positions, right? So you connect the red and orange to the switch. Forget about any extra wires on the switch.  Connect gray direct to brown, not thru the switch.  Taillight will illuminate with the key ON. You have no 3rd position for just the tail light.  Simply connect gray to brown.  Cut, strip, solder or crimp.  Or make a jumper wire with terminals that mate with the gray and brown wire terminals.

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Oh wow, thanks for the help, this worked to my surprise.  Always learning more about electrical work is valuable, thanks again.  

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Having a similar issue.  Break light works, not the plate light.  Just bought an 06 with an aftermarket edge 2 light on it.  The tail light doesn't stay lit in the "on" position.  So I'm riding without lights in the rear.  It has the original switch with three positions and it only has 4500 miles on it.   It's clean and doesn't appear to be hacked up at all. Tail light has a red, yellow, and black connection to the tail light.  and the original harness connection has a white with black stripe , black with white stripe, and brown.  whats the correct connection here?  

 

Should I be driving in the third position?  "Park"?  what is "park" for?  

 

Anyone have experience with the 12 o'clock labs running lights add on ( http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=70) ?  I'm very interested in blinding the cagers with light before they get to my location!

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!  

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PARK is a key position in which the ignition is locked off, the key can be removed and the tail light remains lit.  Not sure why, might be a requirement in a different country.  Pretty common with Suzuki motorcycles and some others.

 

Suzuki wire colors to the rear are:  brown - tail light.  Black with white stripe - ground.  White with black stripe - stop light.

 

You will have to work out the replacement light wire colors.  I assume black is ground, probably yellow is tail and red is brake???

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It is a safety feature.

Say you are stopped on the side of a narrow road. It is dark and a bit foggy. If you leave the key on the headlight will drain the battery quickly. If you turn off the key it is dark and the bike could get hit from behind. Using the park position you can keep the taillight on to warn drivers/pedestrians/bicyclists that the motorcycle is there.

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Thanks a ton for the advice,  

 

Pulled it apart last night.  My "brown" wire has no current.  this should be the tag light.  Hope I don't have to chase this around the bike. I'll replace the connectors and see if that is the issue.  I've not taken the head lamp part of the bike off to check the starter/ front harness yet.  Don't want to either!  Anyone know if the brown wire is a direct run to the "on" switch? If it turns into a gremlin, I may just run a new wire altogether to the tail light.  I had a horrible experience wiring a full harness into a 60's model MGB.  Don't want to go down that road again!  

 

I guess I could see the use of the "park" option now.  I do ride early in the morning and un-caffeinated people scare me.  Had a bike (Herritage springer) bumped over years ago at 7-11.  Lady didn't see the bike through her make up.  She only had one eye painted and the stick in her hand when got 2 inches from her window.  Maybe the park light could prevent that. 

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Brown wire runs direct from the ignition switch to the tail light.  It should power up with the key in the ON position and the PARK position.  Key ON the brown wire is powered by the gray wire.  In PARK, the brown wire is powered direct from the red wire.

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Yep. That looks right. Got into the head light tonight and I've got no power to the brown wire under the seat. Think I may have a loose brown at the ignition switch. Volt test upside down is hit and miss with the probe. I need to wire the tail light assembly back up and see what lights up or flickers. I guess an ignition switch replacement or a solder job may be in order. I'm going to put the 12 o'clock labs running lights in the circuit. Plan on using the brown to run it hot.

Thanks again Noble!

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