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CRF230F not grabbing gears

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I have a 2009 Honda CRF230F and I have noticed in the past year of riding that something is wrong with the transmission... When I give it gas the bike revs up however does not grab the gears and actually pull for a while the only time it seems to grab is at very low RPMs... I want to find out what exactly needs replaced so I can fix it before something else breaks because of this. I changed the clutch discs and plates last year and it made not a single bit of difference. Any suggestions on what it could be?

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What kind of oil are you using? Maybe try flushing out the tranny and using a different oil. That's the first thing I would do. If that doesnt help, then more serious issues may be at play. I'm not a certified mechanic but this is what my intuition tells me.

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Properly adjust clutch cable free play after lubing the cable with a cable Lube tool and cable lube, after lubing clutch lever pivot bolt with waterproof grease and clutch cable pivot at clutch case cover.

Always properly do your basic maintenance first before throwing new parts at it trying to repair simple neglected maintenance issues.

And as mentioned earlier, only use motorcycle engine oil specifically designed for wet (oil soaked) clutches.

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If the clutch is not faulty and we want to enhance its functionality, we can use a trick.

Just add 4 copper washers, one for each clutch spring.

I have done this, it really works.

First we have to put the washer (washer measure must be appropriate to let slide the clutch pressure plate)

Then we put the spring and finally close the bolt.

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10-40w like the book recommends but it grabs at low RPMs and I had the bike for over 4 years now and I always ran 10-40 in it and it started doing this about a year and a half ago. Its just when I rev it up or when I go to shift something is slipping and the bike just revs up but does not go like it should. However if you hold the throttle open or at the same high RPM that it was slipping before it will eventually grab. Its so strange I looked up to see if anyone was having similar issues and I found nothing of the sort.

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Your description is all we have to go by with out riding your bike our selves.

IMO:

Based on your latest description, your clutch is shot and needs replacement.

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Clutch is worn out! When you order new plates just make sure you get new clutch springs as well. Well worth the few extra dollars!

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I replaced the plates last year along with springs new clutch kit, it didn't make a difference the old plates weren't even worn. 

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Ok then check the clutch cable adjustment. There should be small amount of play at the lever, like 1/16 to 1/8 inch before it engages the clutch. Now if the cable is adjusted correctly then check the lever on the engine to see if it moves fully. You may have to use pliers to move it. Notice if there is any binding or noises that don't sound right. The lever has a strong spring inside the engine and should spring back to its original position. If this spring is broke that might be the problem.

If all this checks out then you might have to remove the engine case cover and physically watch the clutch engage and disengage by pulling on the lever. If you don't see movement then there is another adjustment but a good shop manual or Clymer manual is needed for adjustment procedures. It's not hard but it's a little more in depth.

You said you changed the clutch friction plates and springs, were these OEM parts? Sometimes after market springs are not the right ones. Kinda one size fits all! Also check the springs and make sure none are broke and are the correct length. The shop manuals will have the dimension.

Lots to check! Keep us posted what you find

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I replaced the plates last year along with springs new clutch kit, it didn't make a difference the old plates weren't even worn.

 

There are three kinds of friction disks in the clutch:

 

22201-KBW-900 DISK, CL FRICTION  x1
22201-KPM-850 DISK (4X8X45)  x4
22201-KAZ-000 DISK, CL FRICTION  x1

 

If you install these incorrectly, your clutch may not work like it's supposed to.

 

If the two judder spring parts are installed incorrectly, your clutch may not work like it's supposed to.

 

 

Check the clutch basket fingers; if they are worn or notched, the clutch will slip and act erratically.

 

:ride:

Edited by ramz

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Ok then check the clutch cable adjustment. There should be small amount of play at the lever, like 1/16 to 1/8 inch before it engages the clutch. Now if the cable is adjusted correctly then check the lever on the engine to see if it moves fully. You may have to use pliers to move it. Notice if there is any binding or noises that don't sound right. The lever has a strong spring inside the engine and should spring back to its original position. If this spring is broke that might be the problem.

If all this checks out then you might have to remove the engine case cover and physically watch the clutch engage and disengage by pulling on the lever. If you don't see movement then there is another adjustment but a good shop manual or Clymer manual is needed for adjustment procedures. It's not hard but it's a little more in depth.

You said you changed the clutch friction plates and springs, were these OEM parts? Sometimes after market springs are not the right ones. Kinda one size fits all! Also check the springs and make sure none are broke and are the correct length. The shop manuals will have the dimension.

Lots to check! Keep us posted what you find

So you did all the suggestions that everyone made for you already and no difference at all?

If so then, IMO, find a professional to look at your bike and hands on trouble shoot the problem and then have that professional do the recommended repairs so you can start riding your bike again.

I'm just saying.

Edited by adnohguy

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Well if you did everything listed get you a clutch you need a tool to pull the oil pump but its easy ebay got a tusk kit and with heavy duty springs i use the same its great for 40 dollars and about 13 for the puller and side gasket is 8 dollars and use and old belt to hold clutch or get a clutch holder there 25 dollars s under a 100 and you'll have the tools you need if you do it again...

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the clutch cable is properly adjusted however i believe the cable may be the wrong size its too short some adjustments had to be made to make it work with play however even with play the clutch still does the issue, however it seems to work better the hotter the bike gets.

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So you did all the suggestions that everyone made for you already and no difference at all?

If so then, IMO, find a professional to look at your bike and hands on trouble shoot the problem and then have that professional do the recommended repairs so you can start riding your bike again.

I'm just saying.

Again....

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I'd just like to reiterate that it's important to use only motorcycle specific oil matching Honda's specs. In a pinch, Valvoline motorcycle 10-40 complies and is available at auto parts stores. Non-mc oil can have additives leading to your symptoms.

Good luck!

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