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2014 350 RR Forks

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Hi guys,

I rode my brand new bike for the first time yesterday. Must say I'm very impressed with the engine and chassis.

My only concern was the forks. I found a setting on the clickers that felt really good but I found I was bottoming them out really easily. I dropped off a 3' step and the forks bottom out. I did the same on a friends KTM 250f and wasn't close to bottoming.

Is there any way to add preload to the sachs forks?

Rather than add lots of compression damping clicks I feel it will really need the fork springs upgrading. Has anyone else thought this with their bikes?

I normally get away with the stock springs in any bike as I'm 82kg and all the KTM's I have had before are within 80-85kg on stock springs so with a bit of preload added I can usually get it dialled.

On the whole though I love the beta. Looking forward to a long and happy life with her and no orange bits around my house!!! Lol

Andy

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It is not a bad thing to bottom your suspension during a ride as long as it is not bottoming all of the time. Bottomed my 300's forks once yesterday on a 27 mile ride.  It was on a major G-out at speed.  Bike maintained it's posture so no worries.  

 

Just because the KTM didn't bottom is not necessarily a good thing. Why have all that travel if you never use it.

 

That being said, oil height in the fork can effect excessive bottoming more than anything.  Try adding more oil, 10cc at a time until the excessive bottoming ceases. 

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Andi,

Can you clarify this?

 I dropped off a 3' step and the forks bottom out.

 

How many clicks did you set on the compression and rebound when you found it comfortable?

I'm 80-82kg (without gear) (400RR) and I haven't noticed any bottoming while setting 3-4 clicks up and down from recommended.

Also, I'm not particularly fast, or better yet rather slow.  ;)

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The step was just a 3 foot high rock to flat ground. Just blurped off in 1st and landing back wheel just before the front.

Tried it a number of times and each time my forks bottomed.

I bottomed it no problem on the MX track but I'm not taking that into consideration, that was just a bit of a laugh. I haven't made a note of the settings yet, just heading back to the track for a play now.

I will check my sag settings when I get home and see what they come in at.

Andy

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Sag affects this bike a lot.
Give the suspension (and engine) at least 10-20h of hard riding to bed in before big decisions. Difference will be noticeable. 

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You can adjust sag on the forks with PVC pipe as a spacer if adding oil doesn't get you what you're looking for. Using sch 80 vs sch 40 will allow for a smaller ID since both sch have the same OD. Just don't use foam core PVC.

Edited by Rotax

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The step was just a 3 foot high rock to flat ground. Just blurped off in 1st and landing back wheel just before the front.

Tried it a number of times and each time my forks bottomed.

I bottomed it no problem on the MX track but I'm not taking that into consideration, that was just a bit of a laugh. I haven't made a note of the settings yet, just heading back to the track for a play now.

I will check my sag settings when I get home and see what they come in at.

Andy

The Beta's seem to like 105mm of sag. At least for me.

 

Sag affects this bike a lot.

Give the suspension (and engine) at least 10-20h of hard riding to bed in before big decisions. Difference will be noticeable. 

Good advice. Something that is strange on my 520, is the fact that I am running much stiffer springs than what you would think I need. I'm a slow ass rider. But the fact that my bike rides much higher in the stroke makes it more plush.

 

Here is a "cut/paste" to tuning my suspension a while back from a common sense standpoint. Keep in mind, I've had it revalved since then. 

 

 

Well, here is something I did today that was a real mental challenge that I never tried before:

Suspension Tuning! I may not have done it right but the outcome was awesome!

As per Dave's recommendation I set the sag at 105mm race (came out to 35mm static). All clicker numbers are from fully closed. Tire Pressure 14psi rear/12psi front. Tires are brand new Kenda Trackmasters.

Keep in mind this is with a bike that is FULLY loaded down with extra fuel and bagged up for adventure touring. I'm a "C" rider who wishes he could go fast LOL!

Tuning tools and water for lunch:

100_3401_zps1fa68124.jpg

Me tuning:

100_3408_zpsf23be959.jpg

The preload adjuster is worth its weight in gold! No more hammering preload rings. I love it.

http://shop.getdirty...er-AB-10276.htm

First ride was a warmup with 105 sag and clickers at factory settings. I tested one circuit at a time/3 clicks at a time. I will say that the rebound was very difficult to get right. Especially on the shock! When adjusting, I concentrated on the forks first then the shock.

Lots of testing in rocks, whoops, sand, rocky sandy hills etc. I even slammed a few ditches as fast as I would dare to test the "G" out capabilities.

Too loose compression (13) in the forks caused a springy feel and jolted my arms. Too much rebound (7) was downright scary! Bike did not feel planted and front end wanted to wash out.

I ended up very pleased with 9 C/10 R

Next was the shock. From the factory the HSC/LSC is all the way open. I started out from the middle range HSC 10/LSC 15. Bike was kicking hard at speed. HSC 13/LSC 15 still kicking!

Moved on to rebound. Tightened her up to 18 clicks. Oh yeah Baby! Rode my bike the rest of the afternoon today and had a blast!! It took everything I had the guts to try.

Forks 9 C/10 R, shock 13 HSC/18 LSC/18 R is what I ended up with.

Heck I even did my best imitation of a seat bounce over a pucker bush!

100_3421_zps220bbd85.jpg

Hope this is helpful to someone.

Chris

 

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I haven't measured or checked anything, just washed the bike and put it in the garage for now.

I did notice the preload on the hock is a long way in so I will have a good check over tomorrow and see what sag I'm at.

I noticed I rode it down a few steep downhills like a 2T and then I started rolling off with the clutch out and by the end of the day I was that confident I was accelerating down some of them into the berms at the bottom!

I wasn't sure if I'd made the right choice of a 4T, but now I'm so glad I did. I'm planning on doing H&H races this year instead of looking at the extreme events and I think iv made the correct choice for what I want to do.

Anyway, enough of the 2T / 4T ramblings. I'll try not to drink too much tonight on the bank holiday and put some time in on the setup tmoz!

Andy

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Unfortunately I'm working away this week so I can't get in the garage to have a play with the clickers!

I'll be on with it on Saturday bright and early though!

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Just something I want to check, are your clicks counted from all the way out and the number of clicks in or the other way?

Want to make sure were heading in the same direction!

I have the American Beta setting sheet and that doesn't confirm which way the clicks are made either.

I did a race on Sunday but didn't need to think about suspension as it was wheel deep bogs everywhere. Lol. I just left everything as it was. Saturday is a race with similar bog mud so I will leave everything as is and once iv done the mammoth cleaning up operation I'll spend Sunday checking and adjusting sag and noting down clicker settings etc.

It will have had 9 or 10 hours use by Sunday so I expect everything will be broken in then.

Gonna do an oils and filters change and also strip and waterproof grease all linkage / shock / head & wheel bearings.

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Never add preload in an attempt to stiffen up too soft a spring, it just makes for a poor ride in the small stuff.  Always spring correct or err on the stiff side and run very little preload.  Same goes with the comp adjuster, you will just make things harsh trying to control bottoming as you describe.  Valving is the way.  I assume this is a Sachs fork?  Was the KTM you compared it to running CC forks?  If so that is most of the difference right there.   

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