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Hot Rods crank or Genuine Kawasaki?

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I'm getting parts together for a bottom end job that I've been putting off for about 2.5 years.  There is one place selling genuine factory crank for $267.  I can get a Hot Rods for about $210.  Any opinions?

 

I'm leaning toward the factory part as I've had excellent luck with factory in the past.  I've got no idea how many hours are on the current crank.  Probably 200+ from the previous owner and another ~150 since I've owned it and its still going.

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OEM, it’s designed to fit and that’s worth more than a few bucks…..

 

You could buy a ProX rod kit and have the original rebuilt.

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Since I have hung out here for years, here is a summary from the group"

Most will say avoid Wiseco or Hot Rods crankshafts and connecting rod kits.  A few have had success with them.

 

From me:  If the crank halves are OK, have you considered rebuilding it or having it rebuilt?  Depending on your budge and time/trouble, it may be worth just buying a new OEM crankshaft.  Beyond that, I would check on buying OEM connecting rod, pin, bearing and washers, then after that, Pro-X.  Vesrah may be an option, also.

 

I am just not big on putting Chinese or Taiwanese parts deep inside the engine at 9,500 RPM's.

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OE it is.  I haven't quoted the labor on a rebuild but I think I'd be hard pressed to beat the price of the factory replacement.  I've used Hot Rods in the past and I had picked up a Wiseco crank for like $60 before I had read about how bad they sucked.  I don't even think I would try to sell that little grenade.  I'll probably just bury it in the desert or something.

 

Any reason not to post a link to this place with the deals on factory original parts?  I don't know if there are forum sponsors that might not appreciate it.  I'd like to support this vendor if its not going to step on any toes. 

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I've always had good luck with either. Biggest thing is how well you take care of the engine ( mixture ) overreved while running lean kills the bearings fast. And use a high quality oil! Good luck

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If memory serves me the oem Kaw rod was an induction hardened rod and not the typical gas carburized copper plated rod. These were problematic for Kaw. I would recommend Hot Rods for this model. Not sure if the Prox rod is carburized or induction hardened so I can't say.

Here is a nice video covering how to make a proper connecting rod.

http://www.hotrodsproducts.com/LearningResources.aspx?ItemID=706&page=1

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I've seen OEM cranks on Ebay for $200.

 

Also, never heard anything bad about Mr. Crankshaft.  Site says he uses Japanese rod kits.

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Good question.

It isn't that it can't be done it is tricky to get it it right. During induction hardening the rod hole is heated with an induction coil then suddenly quenched with coolant. This process not only hardens the hole but also a small portion of the rod beam next to the small end pin hole. Hard beams are a no-no! When a rod is completely copper plated like in the Hot Rods video carbon gas cannot penetrate into the beam to make it hard. Plating is the preferred method.

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I decided to go ahead and take this thing apart today.  The small end of the rod measured 22.10mm, or .05mm above the service limit.  Its probably been that way since I got the bike.

 

I'm going to order an OE crank.  Got some Hot Rods main bearings sitting here along with a complete gasket set and a stock piston and rings.  I don't know if I'm going to send off a cylinder for a re-plate.  The one that I have been running shows no additional wear since it was installed but it is still in marginal condition.

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