Can't find the right bike for my wife

My wife is 5'3".  She owned a CRF150F, but it was too sluggish and had no e-start.  Then we got her a CRF150R.  It's great, but those race bikes can be a PITA to start with a lot of varying elevation in the trails.  Not to mention wear you out.

 

I am trying to find a bike that is preferably the following:

  • Has e-start AND kick start
  • Light (under 200 lbs)
  • Is not a gutless slug
  • 4 stroke

What options exist?  so far the 150R has been the perfect bike... except for the lack of e-start and how hard it can be to start sometimes.  Also the way to power comes on on steep grades can be a bit of a struggle for her. 

Both options we can't really afford right now, unfortunately.  It's a shame they don't make a bike like the CRF250X but in a 150cc size.  The Junior-X is perfect except I'd rather buy used and for a significant fracture of the cost.  9-10k is far too steep.

ninjai.  It really is a dilemma for smaller riders and women.  Very few trail or enduro bikes that have good power, braking, suspension and are relatively cheap.  The only thing I could come up with was a KDX200 for my daughter (5' 4") and i lowered the forks, cut down the seat and used a kouba lowering link.  I looked at KTM 150 xc/200 XCW....but were very pricey and then I would have to get suspension lowered for even more money  She went from CRF100F-->KX100-->KDX200.

 

I really like sandlvr's idea of rekluse clutch on the CRF150R/RB.  Start it once for the day and never turn it off.  Also maybe work on the jetting so it is easier to start. 

 

I had a buddy pick up a used Rekluse Z-start Pro on e-bay for about 300 for his WR450F.  I picked up the same for my sons WR250F for about the same price.  Looked like it was brand new.  So perhaps you can find a used Rekluse for the CRF150R.  It will never make it a wide ratio transmission, but it will give it some more trail flexibilty.

 

Once you go to a full size bike, you will be above 200 lbs even if you can find a two stroke and then you will have to somehow lower the suspension ($500-$1000).  I would make sure she really likes riding and is into it before going that route.  I think the used Rekluse might be one cheaper way to go.

 

 

p.s.  Z-start pro is RMS-810.  Use www.searchtempest.com and start scouring the entire country for someone selling.  Should be able to pick up a used one for $300-$350 with shipping.

Edited by SilvFx

ninjai.  It really is a dilemma for smaller riders and women.  Very few trail or enduro bikes that have good power, braking, suspension and are relatively cheap.  The only thing I could come up with was a KDX200 for my daughter (5' 4") and i lowered the forks, cut down the seat and used a kouba lowering link.  I looked at KTM 150 xc/200 XCW....but were very pricey and then I would have to get suspension lowered for even more money  She went from CRF100F-->KX100-->KDX200.

 

I really like sandlvr's idea of rekluse clutch on the CRF150R/RB.  Start it once for the day and never turn it off.  Also maybe work on the jetting so it is easier to start. 

 

I had a buddy pick up a used Rekluse Z-start Pro on e-bay for about 300 for his WR450F.  I picked up the same for my sons WR250F for about the same price.  Looked like it was brand new.  So perhaps you can find a used Rekluse for the CRF150R.  It will never make it a wide ratio transmission, but it will give it some more trail flexibilty.

 

Once you go to a full size bike, you will be above 200 lbs even if you can find a two stroke and then you will have to somehow lower the suspension ($500-$1000).  I would make sure she really likes riding and is into it before going that route.  I think the used Rekluse might be one cheaper way to go.

Thanks for the input.

 

Jetting is not my strong point.  The previous owners overhauled this thing for trail riding, so my logical conclusion would be that they put a JD jet kit in it but I have no clue how to tell (is there stamps on some of the needles or anything?).  

 

I've watched dozens of jetting videos and I'm still not really good at adjusting carbs.  Yesterday when I started it (we are pretty close to sea level) it started from cold easiest with no choke, but the hot start pulled in... so is it too rich?  It seemed to run fine when we were a few thousand feet up with its current settings... but in theory a JD jet kit should cover 0-5000 or 5000-10000 if I recall correctly (because they come with 2 needles or something).

 

Think a JD Jet kit would solve my problem?  She loves the power of the 150R, just starting it is such a pain in the ass.  If it started much easier it wouldn't be so bad.

 

She definitely loves dirt biking... there's no question there.  I just hate when I have to see her get frustrated and tuckered out when her bike stalls and doesn't start after 15 kicks.  It's a complete waste of energy.

Edited by ninjai

A rekluse will most definitely help your situation with your existing bike, and probably be your cheapest solution. 

 

Somewhere out there is a Husqvarna TE250 LOW....which was a TE250 sold new with lowered suspension.  They are great little bikes, but prolly hard to find.  However, I figure you can lower most any bike.

 

I put  a z-start Rekluse on a friends bike and she got 3rd place in an event last weekend...didn't stall once.

Edited by Slackkinhard

Thanks for the input.

 

Jetting is not my strong point.  The previous owners overhauled this thing for trail riding, so my logical conclusion would be that they put a JD jet kit in it but I have no clue how to tell (is there stamps on some of the needles or anything?).  

 

I've watched dozens of jetting videos and I'm still not really good at adjusting carbs.  Yesterday when I started it (we are pretty close to sea level) it started from cold easiest with no choke, but the hot start pulled in... so is it too rich?  It seemed to run fine when we were a few thousand feet up with its current settings... but in theory a JD jet kit should cover 0-5000 or 5000-10000 if I recall correctly (because they come with 2 needles or something).

 

Think a JD Jet kit would solve my problem?  She loves the power of the 150R, just starting it is such a pain in the ass.  If it started much easier it wouldn't be so bad.

 

She definitely loves dirt biking... there's no question there.  I just hate when I have to see her get frustrated and tuckered out when her bike stalls and doesn't start after 15 kicks.  It's a complete waste of energy.

 

It's WAY rich. If it started cold only with the hotstart and no choke you need to rejet badly. I have no way to know if there is a JD jet kit in there but your best bet is to call up JD and talk to James Dean himself. He can set you up with exactly what you need to install and be right on the money. I have a lot of faith in the guy, he has saved me a lot of headaches.

That bike should start up pretty easily with a proper kick.

It's WAY rich. If it started cold only with the hotstart and no choke you need to rejet badly. I have no way to know if there is a JD jet kit in there but your best bet is to call up JD and talk to James Dean himself. He can set you up with exactly what you need to install and be right on the money. I have a lot of faith in the guy, he has saved me a lot of headaches.

That bike should start up pretty easily with a proper kick.

With normal jets, how picky are they per elevation change?  There's easily 3,000 ft of change between where I just started it and where we normally ride.  We usually ride around 2600-4800 ft.  Again, if I recall correctly JD has a needle for 0-5000 and 5000-10000, so in theory this should solve all jet problems.

 

Couldn't my problem also be the air/fuel mix adjustment?

With normal jets, how picky are they per elevation change?  There's easily 3,000 ft of change between where I just started it and where we normally ride.  We usually ride around 2600-4800 ft.  Again, if I recall correctly JD has a needle for 0-5000 and 5000-10000, so in theory this should solve all jet problems.

 

Couldn't my problem also be the air/fuel mix adjustment?

They are sometimes picky on the fuel screw- that is, restarting. You should have a quick adjustment screw on the carb if you don't already have one.

 

The two JD needles are for temperature. The red is summer and the blue, winter. Same thing though, one is richer than the other. Multiple clip positions just like every other needle means that they each need to be dialed in before they can just be swapped for proper mixture.

 

Your problem absolutely IS the air/fuel adjustment which is why you need to adjust it. Wait, you mean the fuel screw?

My wife is 5'3".  She owned a CRF150F, but it was too sluggish and had no e-start.  Then we got her a CRF150R.  It's great, but those race bikes can be a PITA to start with a lot of varying elevation in the trails.  Not to mention wear you out.

 

I am trying to find a bike that is preferably the following:

  • Has e-start AND kick start
  • Light (under 200 lbs)
  • Is not a gutless slug
  • 4 stroke

What options exist?  so far the 150R has been the perfect bike... except for the lack of e-start and how hard it can be to start sometimes.  Also the way to power comes on on steep grades can be a bit of a struggle for her. 

Yam TTR 125    Got one for my GF, an '07,  she is 5'5", 150 and, unless your gal wants to race, it is a very competent bike. Not great suspension but, good enough. Not great brakes but, good enough. Not a monster but, not a gutless slug.

They are sometimes picky on the fuel screw- that is, restarting. You should have a quick adjustment screw on the carb if you don't already have one.

 

The two JD needles are for temperature. The red is summer and the blue, winter. Same thing though, one is richer than the other. Multiple clip positions just like every other needle means that they each need to be dialed in before they can just be swapped for proper mixture.

 

Your problem absolutely IS the air/fuel adjustment which is why you need to adjust it. Wait, you mean the fuel screw?

Now you've got me confused :).

 

If I recall correctly there's a screw under the carb (at least that's where it was on my yz250f) and that is the fuel screw.  The other is a knob you can turn that goes into the carb, but it's a cable that extends from it with a knob on the end.  That's what I always understood adjusted the air/fuel mixture.  I'm not entirely sure what that means, I just assumed it opened and closed some airway... where turning it out (unscrewing) it would add more fuel, and turning it it, it would restrict fuel allowing more air.

 

 

Yam TTR 125    Got one for my GF, an '07,  she is 5'5", 150 and, unless your gal wants to race, it is a very competent bike. Not great suspension but, good enough. Not great brakes but, good enough. Not a monster but, not a gutless slug.

 

Unfortunately my wife is too aggressive for that.  She had a CRF150F prior and it was gutless and she hated it.  She loves the power of the R though.

Edited by ninjai

Properly set up the CRF150 will be good bike.  It sounds like the jetting is way off.  The JD kit works for many people but you can get the same results just going to Honda and buying one jet at a time.  Even if it was rejetted, you dont know if it was done properly.  The JD kit takes some of the guess work out of jetting.  Also even the JD kit is not an install and forget kit.  You will have to change jetting depending on where you tend to ride and what modifications you do to the bike. 

 

I have a different opinion of the recluse clutch.  It is an awesome piece of engineering but it is not for everyone.  I dont like it for hill climbs.  If I dont make the climb I dont like the fact that you can roll backwards when you close the throttle.  Honestly hill climbs are the only place I dont like the recluse. 

 

Also you mentioned other bikes in the CRF150R class.  There are several but they are all 2 stroke.  Some people like starting 2 strokes easier.  A few examples are KX100, RM100, Honda used to make the CR80 and 85 big wheel.  These are all motocross bikes like the CRF but mods can be made to make them trail friendly.  Also at 5 4 she could ride a lowered 250F or 125 2 stroke bike with the seat cut down and in that class you have a large choice of flavors.

 

All that being said, I would stick with the 150R as you already have it and work on getting it to start easier.

Edited by condor74

I'm in the same boat. My daughter had a CRF250x, I got it lowered and its just to heavy for her. Shes five five and 120lbs. So I backtracked and got her 150r expert. Had AS racing go through the carb and do all the mods. It runs very well and starts right up. She likes it but said the power would come on to sudden for trail riding. Installed a 9oz flywheel wieght and the power comes on lower and smoother, but still has the same top end as it had. Just my 2 cents.

I could detail the carb mods if your interested.

I'm in the same boat. My daughter had a CRF250x, I got it lowered and its just to heavy for her. Shes five five and 120lbs. So I backtracked and got her 150r expert. Had AS racing go through the carb and do all the mods. It runs very well and starts right up. She likes it but said the power would come on to sudden for trail riding. Installed a 9oz flywheel wieght and the power comes on lower and smoother, but still has the same top end as it had. Just my 2 cents.

I could detail the carb mods if your interested.

 

Please do detail!  I'm pretty sure this bike does have a flywheel weight, but I can't recall.  Easy to check when I have time :).  I love how light this bike is for her, it's probably similar to me at 6'2 lugging my 250x at a 251lb, it is still sorta heavy but it's still manageable if required.

Heres what Paul did.

slow jet #48

main jet #140

r & d flex screw

neddle from 08 150r

tokyo mods pump spring

leak jet # 50

diaphragm set, pump, not sure of part number. It has bigger bowl and the short rivet. It a honda part.

I can get part number if needed.

perhaps this person will consider selling the zstart pro separately.

 

http://hickory.craigslist.org/mcy/4437660406.html

 

that's how I bought mine....I solicited someone selling their bike that included a rekluse.  Usually people dont pay anything extra for aftermarket parts....so if the seller can get same price for bike and sell aftermarket accessories separately they come out ahead.....at least that was my sales pitch and it worked to convince the seller. 

I'm 5'3" and a woman. Started on a TTR 125 and moved up to a TTR 230 after one summer. The 230 has a lot more power and is great in the varying elevations we ride in (WA/ID). Has electric start and handles well, the only downfall is the bike is heavy. I can push it and pick it up but it's a bit of a pain.

I'm 5'3" and a woman. Started on a TTR 125 and moved up to a TTR 230 after one summer. The 230 has a lot more power and is great in the varying elevations we ride in (WA/ID). Has electric start and handles well, the only downfall is the bike is heavy. I can push it and pick it up but it's a bit of a pain.

Thanks for the input, however I feel that would be a big downgrade for her.  The CRF150R has roughly 25 horsepower and according to some results I found, the TTR 230 has somewhere in the ballpark of 15 horsepower.  She likes the power of the 150R, unfortunately.  If it was something like 23 horsepower then it might be a different story.

 

perhaps this person will consider selling the zstart pro separately.

 

http://hickory.craigslist.org/mcy/4437660406.html

 

that's how I bought mine....I solicited someone selling their bike that included a rekluse.  Usually people dont pay anything extra for aftermarket parts....so if the seller can get same price for bike and sell aftermarket accessories separately they come out ahead.....at least that was my sales pitch and it worked to convince the seller. 

Unfortunately that's way too far away for me, I'm in Canada (BC) and I doubt he'd ship out a rekluse.

Now you've got me confused :).

 

If I recall correctly there's a screw under the carb (at least that's where it was on my yz250f) and that is the fuel screw.  The other is a knob you can turn that goes into the carb, but it's a cable that extends from it with a knob on the end.  That's what I always understood adjusted the air/fuel mixture.  I'm not entirely sure what that means, I just assumed it opened and closed some airway... where turning it out (unscrewing) it would add more fuel, and turning it it, it would restrict fuel allowing more air.

 

The screw under the carb is the fuel screw. It is the fine adjustment of the pilot (low speed) jet. This is the one that needs adjustment to keep the bike starting easily depending on elevation changes. There are a lot of aftermarket screws that allow much easier adjustment with no tools. I'm partial to the R&D Flex Jet. It's MUCH easier to get at.

 

The other adjuster screw you referenced, the one with the cable- is idle speed adjustment only. It's a screw that holds the slide open a certain amount.

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