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Timing chain stretch concern during MCCT install

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Hi all, i got a 2001 drz400e  with 4000kms on the engine that still had the ACCT installed. i ordered the MCCT from the store and when installing it on my engine i noticed that the ACCT was fully extended when i removed it (removed spring before removing the ACCT from engine).

 

 

Would i be correct in assuming that it is likely that the timing chain is stretched quite badly?

 

also during the install i couldn't find the marking for TDC on the crank inspection hole, only what looks like some drilled holes for balancing, and also the plug for the bolt to turn the crank directly was seized and the hole for the allen key was rounded out.

 

I think what needs to happen would be to replace the timing chain, along with removing the left side cover to drill out and remove the engine plug to replace it. while I'm at it i will also do the loctite fixes on the primary and counter balancer nut since i dont think they were done by the previous owner, considering that it still has the ACCT.

 

even before replacing the ACCT there was some distinct knocking sounds from the engine at idle, but once it revs up it appears to go away, does this point to the primary or the counter balancer nuts being loose?

 

Any words of advice on what i'm about to do to my bike?

 

 

 

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When we remove the OEM CCT from our track bikes they do go to full extension when removing them as there is no chain to keep them from pushing out.

 

When not put them new CCT in how far did you have to screw it in?

 

If you screwed it way in I would replace the chain.

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When we remove the OEM CCT from our track bikes they do go to full extension when removing them as there is no chain to keep them from pushing out.

When not put them new CCT in how far did you have to screw it in?

If you screwed it way in I would replace the chain.

just installed mine yesterday on a 2000 mile bike so your should be close to thisImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399348504.296789.jpg
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Quite simply, if you have to screw the MCCT right in to make the loose chain rattle go away then I'd assume your chain was stretched.

I'm not a mechanic but I'm in the exact same position.

With regards to tdc. I don't see how that's beneficial as to find the right tension you run the engine and adjust. So as soon as you start the engine to adjust it the crank is spinning?!

I removed the spring from the acct, this leaves the acct in the last position it was in.

Then I matched the rough length with the MCCT and started the bike.

Then adjusted the MCCT until the rattle disappears.

Then turned off the bike and locked the MCCT.

Handy to mark the MCCT nut with tipex or sharpie to enable instant loosening checks.

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Wheeling Supply has replacement timing plugs ..... the OEM plugs stick all the time. Lube the O-ring before install.

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Anti seize is the best way to stop them from sticking .

 

And properly torqueing them. I've seen many people just tightened them way too much.

 

The OP inherited this mess, but if something isn't coming loose, it's time to stop and come up with a new strategy. Heat, shock, or something should be tried before the bolt is stripped.

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I wouldn't necessarily go just by looks, yours looks tighter than mine, and mine is somewhere close to 9k now.

mcct.jpg

ya I'd say that's about 2 threads worth the difference.

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This is the state of my MCCT and going off the pictures above I would say either my chain guides or severely worn, the chain is stretched or both.

The stretched chain would likely explain the slight lack of power compared to some other stock drz I have ridden.

Does anyone know of a walk through for replacing just the timing chain?

1399417717251.jpg

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So over the weekend I started to pull the engine apart and found that my chain does appear to be stretched going by the timing marks.

Ran into a bit of an issue when I pulled the cam caps off and one of the dowels managed to fall down the oil drain hole in the head. I’m going to try and fish it out with a magnet but if that fails then I would need to put the engine apart.

 

At the moment I’ve removed the LHS stator cover and RHS cover. Following the oil drain hole from the head down It goes through the cylinder then into the case. Looking through the manuals and microfiche there is a small cover that sits directly below held on with 2 phillips screws. I tried removing them with a screw driver so when an bought a impact driver. Will try and remove them later tonight, but does anyone know what’s behind the cover?

 

am I on the right track? Any other suggestions?

20140607_162903.jpg

20140607_162930.jpg

manual.JPG

micro.JPG

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Managed to get the screws off for the cover inside the lhs of the crank case and at the bottom I found my missing dowel.

Now I need to go buy another 27mm socket to hold the crank while I twist off the primary nut.

1402400327953.jpg

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So over the weekend I started to pull the engine apart and found that my chain does appear to be stretched going by the timing marks.

Ran into a bit of an issue when I pulled the cam caps off and one of the dowels managed to fall down the oil drain hole in the head. I’m going to try and fish it out with a magnet but if that fails then I would need to put the engine apart.

 

At the moment I’ve removed the LHS stator cover and RHS cover. Following the oil drain hole from the head down It goes through the cylinder then into the case. Looking through the manuals and microfiche there is a small cover that sits directly below held on with 2 phillips screws. I tried removing them with a screw driver so when an bought a impact driver. Will try and remove them later tonight, but does anyone know what’s behind the cover?

 

am I on the right track? Any other suggestions?

 

 

your cam timing picture looks like the chain is in good condition. normally as the chain wears (no stretching involved) there will be a difference in the timing between intake and exhaust cams. yours look to be in sync very nicely. i would install the MCCT, do the loctite fixes, check valve clearances and enjoy another 10-15000 miles out of that engine before worrying about the chain again. 

 

one note, you absolutely must find the timing mark on the rotor, and verify that the cams are timed with that mark while installing the MCCT. if not, the chain may fall slack at the crank cog and timing be off. that would be very very bad. 

 

the proper procedure for MCCT installation prevents -any- possibility of oopsies. i wouldn't try to 'almost' do any of it myself. :)

Edited by ohgood

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Just a quick update on the situation. I pulled the gear off after I bought a new puller tool to remove the gear. Since it appears that the previous owner had loctite the gear to the shaft as well as the primary and counter balance shaft nuts.

Lined up the old chain (bottom) next to a new chain (top) and it's pretty obvious that the chain has stretched. The rivets line up on the left but then don't on the right. Will be interesting to see how it goes with the new chain in terms of performance since it did feel slower compared to some newer drz's I've ridden before.

Will be doing the loctite fixes as part of the reassembly.

1402618096712.jpg

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