Cam sprocket bolts.

Hi all my crf has been very noisy on the top end since having it rebuilt, took it out on Sunday for 45 mins the tinging metal sound starting getting worse, it would cut out randomly so I took the rocker cover of and one sprocket bolt fell out and the other one was very lose, I was tamping to say the least, should they be thread locked in ? Have I got a argument against the shop ?

Cheers all

Yes and you sure do.

Hi all my crf has been very noisy on the top end since having it rebuilt, took it out on Sunday for 45 mins the tinging metal sound starting getting worse, it would cut out randomly so I took the rocker cover of and one sprocket bolt fell out and the other one was very lose, I was tamping to say the least, should they be thread locked in ? Have I got a argument against the shop ?

Cheers all

Those 2 bolts have to have a thread locking adhesive, It is called out in the manual. Loctite Blue is the stuff to use. They may have torqued the bolts without a thread locker. Then again they may not have torqued them at all.

 

You could go back and speak to the manager and he may offer something up along the lines of a "free oil change" or a "discount on your next service" but that will probably be the best you'll do. Worth a try though. I have had things like you describe happen to me at a couple local dealers. I certainly contact them and let them know they f'd up.

Edited by mrmoto35

just to add to the cam sprocket bolt discussion.. if they have any sign of rounding out the hex head, order new bolts. If you use heat on them to soften the locktite, be VERY careful you don't melt the decomp weight spring (05-08?) . I did that on my 08 once, had to buy the entire cam sprocket with weight and spring . $100. Not a good day and felt pretty stupid.

Thought so thanks lads,iv got blue thread lock here it's now put back together and running and sounding lovely. The hex heads were fine I would of replaced them otherwise no need to use heat as they fell out! now to phone the shop in the morning and play hell.

Before I locktite those bolts I make sure to clean the thread holes with mineral spirits or alchohol.  Didn't do that and bolts loosened beacause of the residual oil.

^true. Oil will not let the loctight dry so make sure you get all the oil off plus the cam gear holder helps a lot when torquing these thing down.

I did clean the threads on the bolts but not the threads in the cam I haven't got a torque bar so just done them tight, should I take them back out and clean them again ?

As long as you got the gear to stop spinning and got them good and tight you should be fine man.

Aww FECK.

 

have you ever seen the show seconds from disaster?

 

clean on both sides and red lock tight.

red?? i dunno. you will need heat next time. blue is fine if you do it right

red?? i dunno. you will need heat next time. blue is fine if you do it right

 

 

i dont know where everyone gets the idea that you have to use heat.

i put red loctight everywhere.

shroud bolts, brake parts, case bolts, motor mount bolts suspension parts

everywhere.

i don't own blue or green.

 

you dont have to drown it.

Just for peace of mind I'm going to re clean them thread lock with blue as it's all I have and torque them up to 20 when my torque wrench arrives.

Thanks for all the advice :-)

i dont know where everyone gets the idea that you have to use heat.

i put red loctight everywhere.

shroud bolts, brake parts, case bolts, motor mount bolts suspension parts

everywhere.

i don't own blue or green.

 

you dont have to drown it.

 

Trust me, if you were to clean the threads on both sides with Acetone before installing with red loctite, you'd never get the shroud bolts out without spinning the inserts. When I was a Tech at Hughes Aircraft, I watched red 262 loctite spin the thread right out of grade 5 fasteners, sometimes the heads would come off. Red 271 is some pretty extreme shit when its used exactly as directed too. The Red 272...rated at 150-350in bls of torque to break way on a 10mm bolt. The Red 262 is rated at 190 in lbs of break away torque on a 10mm bolt. In foot pounds, thats over double the 6-7 a 6mm bolt gets torqued to (if you do that sort of thing)

The green stuff is a bearing set compound.

 

The color isnt as indictive of what your applying as the number. That permatex shit aint that great. Better off spending more money on actual loctite if you want rely on it. It works and all, but the shelf life on it doesnt seem as robust.

 

The blue 242 is plenty on the cam bolts when torqued correctly and the parts were cleaned prior.

All this liquid threadlocking stuff lasts a very long time if you store it upright on a shelf with the cap on quite loose... Be sure there's free airflow through the nozzle when you're done using it for the day, best way to do this is sit it upright and squeeze-release the bottom a few times until there's only air flowing in and out of the nozzle, all liquid is either inside bottle or to be wiped off on the outside.

Someone used to make a green "low strength" locker, but Loctite's is Purple at this point in time. Honda uses a mild green locker on the fork caliper attachment bolts.

Edited by Eddie8v

I use the 262... And its okey dokey. I always use barymans chemtool for cleaning parts.

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