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proper coolant level

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where should the coolant level be at? i checked my radiator today for the coolant level and found no signs of coolant at the top, where should it be at? just enough to see so it dont go all over the ground from over flow? since the po removed the coolant overflow for some reason. and use green 50/50 right?  :banghead:

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Normally, if you have the expansion tank installed you'd fill the radiator to the top of the filler neck.  As you ride the coolant heats up/expands and overflows from the radiator into the expansion tank (not a whole lot).  When you park the bike and the coolant cools off it should siphon back into the radiator.  Since you don't have an expansion tank… if you fill it too high, worse case some coolant will spill out the overflow hose.

 

I would rather have more, then less coolant in the radiators.  I would fill it so you can at least see coolant at the tops of the radiator fins (inside), but not ALL the way to the top of the filler neck.

 

Personally I don't like generic "green" coolant in engines/radiators that are made from aluminum (corrosion/deposits/silicates).  I run Zerex G-05 because its what I use in my BMW and MB vehicles.  It's a long-life, HOAT coolant and costs ~$18 for a gallon and is NOT pre-mixed (I'll mix it with distilled water, NOT tap).  Maybe overkill, but it doesn't cost much (for how much we need).

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Normally, if you have the expansion tank installed you'd fill the radiator to the top of the filler neck. As you ride the coolant heats up/expands and overflows from the radiator into the expansion tank (not a whole lot). When you park the bike and the coolant cools off it should siphon back into the radiator. Since you don't have an expansion tank… if you fill it too high, worse case some coolant will spill out the overflow hose.

I would rather have more, then less coolant in the radiators. I would fill it so you can at least see coolant at the tops of the radiator fins (inside), but not ALL the way to the top of the filler neck.

Personally I don't like generic "green" coolant in engines/radiators that are made from aluminum (corrosion/deposits/silicates). I run Zerex G-05 because its what I use in my BMW and MB vehicles. It's a long-life, HOAT coolant and costs ~$18 for a gallon and is NOT pre-mixed (I'll mix it with distilled water, NOT tap). Maybe overkill, but it doesn't cost much (for how much we need).

yeah well since i dont have a overflow i think ill do thar turkey baster mod id rather have all my coolant in the system than it overflowing on the ground. I topped it off a little bit with some zyrex premix green

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+1 on all BMW's content. Without the expansion tank you'll most likely lose coolant every ride & run the rads low. I'd recommend replacing the expansion tank so the system works normal & you won't have to do it "manually" after every ride. Some expansion tanks were notorious for getting brittle when left in direct sunlight.....maybe the cause of removal?? Also....the S/SM models have a heat sensor that ONLY works properly when IN coolant and is located in the top of the rad. If the system is too low....no light indication of overheating.

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+1 on all BMW's content. Without the expansion tank you'll most likely lose coolant every ride & run the rads low. I'd recommend replacing the expansion tank so the system works normal & you won't have to do it "manually" after every ride. Some expansion tanks were notorious for getting brittle when left in direct sunlight.....maybe the cause of removal?? Also....the S/SM models have a heat sensor that ONLY works properly when IN coolant and is located in the top of the rad. If the system is too low....no light indication of overheating.

geeze that makes me feel real good about my bike  :facepalm:  i dont want to go spend the money for a ne expansion tank and the turkey baster mod looks cheap and works i think ill go with that

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geeze that makes me feel real good about my bike  :facepalm:  i dont want to go spend the money for a ne expansion tank and the turkey baster mod looks cheap and works i think ill go with that

Sorry 52.....didn't mean to diss your bike! I thought the Turkey Baster Mod was used in conjunction with the expansion tank installed but I'm not sure. I didn't do that mod to my bike. Living in North Idaho in sub zero temps most of the year I could probably ride without coolant & be fine  :thinking:  Seems the TB mod might be your answer?? I'm just overly paranoid about overheating after reading the posts of the damage that can happen as a result. 

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Sorry 52.....didn't mean to diss your bike! I thought the Turkey Baster Mod was used in conjunction with the expansion tank installed but I'm not sure. I didn't do that mod to my bike. Living in North Idaho in sub zero temps most of the year I could probably ride without coolant & be fine  :thinking:  Seems the TB mod might be your answer?? I'm just overly paranoid about overheating after reading the posts of the damage that can happen as a result. 

haha no worrys man. i read its used to get rid of the overflow and make it a more cleaner look. im paranoid about overheating as well, since i got a new bb kit on my bike i would hate to lose my head from a result in over heating. ill do that mod tomorrow and report back

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yeah well since i dont have a overflow i think ill do thar turkey baster mod id rather have all my coolant in the system than it overflowing on the ground. I topped it off a little bit with some zyrex premix green

 

You can get a stock expansion tank for ~$25 (43078-S006 KLX400 part #), but the turkey baster idea will work as well.

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turkey baster replaces the very fragile stock expansion tank. it will pull and push coolant to/from the TB as needed. i haven't added any coolant since i did it a while back. 

 

WHEN the stock tank starts to shatter, you'll loose coolant but not know it because it ends up splashed out the back. with the TB mod, you'll know it immediately because it vaporises on the exhaust pipe, and your knows lets you know ;-)

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turkey baster replaces the very fragile stock expansion tank. it will pull and push coolant to/from the TB as needed. i haven't added any coolant since i did it a while back. 

 

WHEN the stock tank starts to shatter, you'll loose coolant but not know it because it ends up splashed out the back. with the TB mod, you'll know it immediately because it vaporises on the exhaust pipe, and your knows lets you know ;-)

fragile ... ???

 

Wierd ... I have one on my 2003 and it's not fragile or broken.

I have one from a 2000 that is in a crate of spare parts that gets tossed (literally) and that tank is fine as well last I looked.

I have 4 DRZ's in my garage right now from other riders, 2002, 2006, 2008 model years... all those are original and intact. 

I know there have been a few that had the tank fracture with light ...pressure.. but having no way of knowing what was put in them, sprayed on them, heat applied to it.... who knows why those tanks broke so easily..

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fragile ... ???

 

Wierd ... I have one on my 2003 and it's not fragile or broken.

I have one from a 2000 that is in a crate of spare parts that gets tossed (literally) and that tank is fine as well last I looked.

I have 4 DRZ's in my garage right now from other riders, 2002, 2006, 2008 model years... all those are original and intact. 

I know there have been a few that had the tank fracture with light ...pressure.. but having no way of knowing what was put in them, sprayed on them, heat applied to it.... who knows why those tanks broke so easily..

 

Mine's still good on my '00 S....

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fragile ... ???

Wierd ... I have one on my 2003 and it's not fragile or broken.

I have one from a 2000 that is in a crate of spare parts that gets tossed (literally) and that tank is fine as well last I looked.

I have 4 DRZ's in my garage right now from other riders, 2002, 2006, 2008 model years... all those are original and intact.

I know there have been a few that had the tank fracture with light ...pressure.. but having no way of knowing what was put in them, sprayed on them, heat applied to it.... who knows why those tanks broke so easily..

Your bikes are probably garage kept Erik. Some of us do not have that luxury. The sunlight will ruin those tanks. The tank on my 02 shattered into a million pieces when I leaned over my bike to fold up the passenger peg. My knee barely brushed it. What little was left easily crumbled in my hands.

My 01 had the same problem. Plastic was all fogged up and developed cracks on it's own

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fragile ... ???

 

Wierd ... I have one on my 2003 and it's not fragile or broken.

I have one from a 2000 that is in a crate of spare parts that gets tossed (literally) and that tank is fine as well last I looked.

I have 4 DRZ's in my garage right now from other riders, 2002, 2006, 2008 model years... all those are original and intact. 

I know there have been a few that had the tank fracture with light ...pressure.. but having no way of knowing what was put in them, sprayed on them, heat applied to it.... who knows why those tanks broke so easily..

 

 

yep, it's pretty weird. mine was fine, even felt like the rest of the plastics on the bike until one day it broke in half, and felt like an egg shell. 

 

of the 10-12 drz's that are normally on DS rides with me, it's a toss up as to wether the overflow tanks feel like egg shells or milk cartons. very hit and miss. and weird. 

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$25 seems pretty cheap to me, especially compared to a new head.

And you don't have to re-engineer it.

Suzuki probably spent $100,000 designing that overflow system.

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$25 seems pretty cheap to me, especially compared to a new head.

And you don't have to re-engineer it.

Suzuki probably spent $100,000 designing that overflow system.

nahhh overflow systems are very common

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...overflow systems are very common...

Oh yeah?

Pop that tank out of your bike and go down to a plastics fabricator and get a quote for the mold.

There will be half of your $100,000.

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Suzuki probably spent $100,000 designing that overflow system.

 

I'd go $800.

 

If they had to pay two engineers a full years wage to design a plastic bottle, they'd go broke.

 

Tooling costs? Without a formal education in plastics manufacturing, you just guessing. :naughty:

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fragile ... ???

 

Wierd ... I have one on my 2003 and it's not fragile or broken.

I have one from a 2000 that is in a crate of spare parts that gets tossed (literally) and that tank is fine as well last I looked.

I have 4 DRZ's in my garage right now from other riders, 2002, 2006, 2008 model years... all those are original and intact. 

I know there have been a few that had the tank fracture with light ...pressure.. but having no way of knowing what was put in them, sprayed on them, heat applied to it.... who knows why those tanks broke so easily..

 

+1 on the expansion tank being NOT fragile...

Edited by Craigo 485sm

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I'd go $800.

 

If they had to pay two engineers a full years wage to design a plastic bottle, they'd go broke.

 

Tooling costs? Without a formal education in plastics manufacturing, you just guessing. :naughty:

Pardon me, but they did go broke, has Suzuki came out of bankruptcy yet?

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