Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

1996 CR125R

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for a 2 stroke 125 or 250 MX bike and ran across a '96 CR125R for $1100, supposedly in good condition. I contacted the seller and offered $800 to $900 depending on my opinion of the actual condition. The seller said he would consider the offer because of the distance I will have to travel to check it out (140 miles one way). I'll post the pics from the ad.

 

This is what he said in his email:

 

Thanks for contacting me Ray, I would most definitely consider your offer since you have to drive so far. The bike is in good condition for the year, I put the plastics off my cr 250 on it cause the plastics that were on it had been painted multiple times and we're cracked bad. These plastics don't have a crack in them. The fuel doesn't overflow out of the carb. The counter sprocket is a little to big for the bike. Its a 14t. And I put it on there because the one that was on there was chewed up pretty bad and I have a lot of flat lands where I live. This is my wife's bike, she rode it a hand full of times and never wrecked it.

 

 

 

What do you guys think? Is it worth driving 280 miles round trip to check it out? I seem to remember that the '96 supposedly had one of the best engines that Honda made, but I thought that was the 250 engine, not the 125. Is the 125 engine a good one also?

 

Thanks!

Ray

 

96 cr125r 1.jpg

96 cr125r 2.jpg

96 cr125r 3.jpg

96 cr125r 4.jpg

Edited by Raybo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My friend just sold his 2003 CR125R in extremely good condition for $1,000.  Had new top end, plastics were the original (Bike had very limited use in the last 10 years).  That being said, dirt bike prices are pretty common in that 800-1,500 range from mid 90's - 2005 or so.  Doesn't seem to matter how old they are, they only depreciate so much (as long as they are running).  Also, I think where you are at matters so check the prices of other motorcycles being sold in your area.  I'm guessing it wouldn't be a bad buy, but think you can get something better if you are prepared to wait / look around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From the pictures I would say $800 or $900 would be fair as long as the engine, tires, breaks, suspension, and bearings are all in really good condition since the plastic he has installed is very obviously from an older CR.  And he has already admitted to you that it will probably need a chain and sprocket combo in order to ride it since a 14 tooth front would be miserable on a 125.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mch - Yeah, $800 is about the bottom price in the Texas area for any MX bike that runs and rides, regardless of the year model.

 

frdbtr - He said the plastics were off his 250 because the old plastics were cracked (doesn't matter what year they are as long as they fit well and are tight). The counter sprocket was changed to 14 tooth, and I believe the stock one was 13 tooth(?). Of course that means changing the rear sprocket also as well as the chain. I think the rear sprocket was 51 tooth stock(?), and the chain is a 520. So, we're looking at about $75 or higher for the set up, depending on brand. If I buy it I'll ride it and see what sprocket combo would probably work best for how I will be riding (70% trails and 30%track). 13 on front and maybe 52 for the rear?

 

What did he mean when he said: "The fuel doesn't overflow out of the carb"   Isn't that standard operating procedure? You don't want fuel to overflow from the carb, do you?

Edited by Raybo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mch - Yeah, $800 is about the bottom price in the Texas area for any MX bike that runs and rides, regardless of the year model.

 

frdbtr - He said the plastics were off his 250 because the old plastics were cracked (doesn't matter what year they are as long as they fit well and are tight). The counter sprocket was changed to 14 tooth, and I believe the stock one was 13 tooth(?). Of course that means changing the rear sprocket also as well as the chain. I think the rear sprocket was 51 tooth stock(?), and the chain is a 520. So, we're looking at about $75 or higher for the set up, depending on brand. If I buy it I'll ride it and see what sprocket combo would probably work best for how I will be riding (70% trails and 30%track). 13 on front and maybe 52 for the rear?

 

What did he mean when he said: "The fuel doesn't overflow out of the carb"   Isn't that standard operating procedure? You don't want fuel to overflow from the carb, do you?

 

13/51 is stock combo.  On a stock bore 125 of that year, I would go at least 53 on the rear.  As far as the carb overflowing, I think he was trying to ease your mind that the carb is still in good condition. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, 53 sounds about right. What is it, 1 tooth on front equals about 4 on the rear?

 

I thought that was what he meant, regarding the carb, but thought I'd ask anyway, I am 65 years old BTW, so didn't know if the thing was supposed to overflow, for some strange reason, or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I'll be heading for Oklahoma in the morning to look at the '96 CR125. Sure hope it's like it's supposed to be!

 

I'll post after I get back, and if I buy it I'll post my thoughts on the bike and what it will take, if anything (sprockets and chain for sure), to get back in the dirt, after all these many years, nice 40 year anniversary, huh! That's going to be something, can't wait!!!!

 

Hey, saw a post today for a '74 Husky "Mag"250 CR, original bike, all there, original Trelleborg tires and all, for $2800. I know that those and the Maicos were the bike to have down here up until '74 then the Jap bikes took over, and I was right at the front of that pack here in the southwest with one of the first 3 to come off the west coast. That CR250M made those other bikes eat some dust, lots of dust!!! Then came the YZs too, and it was all over for the European/Swedish bikes. Good memories for sure.

Edited by Raybo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Seems like the only thing 96 about that bike is the engine.

 

 

Yeah, he put his 250's plastic on it (bought new plastic for that one) and changed the front sprocket to 14 tooth. The seat cover obviously has been replaced, and the FMF pipe is aftermarket. Probably the bars too, forgot to ask. He said the brakes, engine/tranny, are all good. 70% on the tires and all the bearings/seals are in good shape. Looks like the clutch cable has worked its way out of the fitting so that will have to be fixed/replaced. We'll see tomorrow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I mean is, there were only a couple of years CR 125s had those plastics. 91 & 92 and 250s were 90 & 91. I'm guessing it is a 96 engine in an older frame. But that is just my opinion. Check the VIN on the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I mean is, there were only a couple of years CR 125s had those plastics. 91 & 92 and 250s were 90 & 91. I'm guessing it is a 96 engine in an older frame. But that is just my opinion. Check the VIN on the frame.

 

Uh oh, I didn't think about the plastics being from an "earlier" year, and thus the frame being an earlier year also. Do you know where I'd find the vin# and what character reflects the year?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Uh oh, I didn't think about the plastics being from an "earlier" year, and thus the frame being an earlier year also. Do you know where I'd find the vin# and what character reflects the year?

VIN will be on the frame behind the number plate.  I believe the 10 digit of the VIN should indicate the year.  I someone has posted what years coincide with what, but I can't remember.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

VIN will be on the frame behind the number plate.  I believe the 10 digit of the VIN should indicate the year.  I someone has posted what years coincide with what, but I can't remember.  

 

Yeah, I just Googled it and 1996 is a "T", '90="L", '91="M", and '92="N". I'll check it tomorrow for sure!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It turned out to be a 1997, not a 1996.

 

Better than I thought. The Vin is: JH2JE010XVM803166, which makes the frame a 1997 ("V" code)

The engine number is:JE01E 580-----, which makes it a 1997.

Keihin carb number is: PJ15LAKG, which makes it a 1997.

 

I tested it on a dirt road near the seller and it was hair raising, to say the least. I haven't felt that rush since the '70s. Brakes are good, shock and forks (stock KYB - rebuilt) are good (supposedly the forks were rebuilt with Factory Connection springs about 6 months ago), no leaks anywhere. Tranny worked well, at least through 5th gear, never got to 6th. Clutch cable and clutch lever will need replacing before any serious riding, but work fine. Filter is dirty and the plastic is all wrong, but that's not a concern to me. Don't know about the sprockets yet, they are in good shape and even with the 14 on the front the performance off the line was good. Maybe switch to stock 12/49 someday.

 

I'm going to remove the seat cover and cut down the foam about 1"-1 1/2" and taper the sides more, adjust the sag, etc., and raise the fork tubes as far as I can without hitting the handle bars. All that should lower the loaded seat height down to about 34-35", which will be much better for my short legs.

 

Overall I'm satisfied so far, paid $850 for it, down from an asking price of $1100. Gotta get helmet, boots, pants, gloves, etc. now! More money to spend -  ugh!! Gonna look for used stuff.

Edited by Raybo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed the seat cover, cut 1 1/2" off the top, tapered the edges down like the original shape was, and put the cover back on, then re-installed it on the bike. That helps some, but I still can't touch the ground unless the other leg is on the seat almost horizontally with the ground. This really sucks!

 

So, then I started trying to adjust the rear shock, raising the spring adjusting nut, loosening the tension on the spring, but that seems to make the height of the seat even higher. If I go the other way I'm going to end up with a very stiff spring, aren't I (the guy I bought it from weighs about 220 pounds or more, I weigh a whole lot less)? I've read that there are other adjustments that can be made to the shock but don't see anything on the shock that would be adjustable.

 

I have never had to adjust a rear shock before so don't really know what I'm doing. Is there anything, other than raising the forks tubes, that will lower the seat height? I built a bike stand that is 14 1/2" tall and I had to add another 3/4" just to get the bike to sit on it without falling over. Isn't 15" of clearance a bit much? Wouldn't 12" or 13" be plenty?

 

By the way, I'm 5'8" tall with an inseam of about 30", and I weigh about 135-140 pounds.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Edited by Raybo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I ordered helmet, goggles, and gloves for myself and my wife today from Amazon. Total price including shipping was $75 plus change, all new stuff. Not name brand but the reviews were all good on all this stuff. I can always buy better stuff once I start riding harder, will be taking it easy for a while until I get comfortable and in better shape.

 

On a different note, do I need a new clutch cover gasket before taking off the cover to have a look at the clutch and cable? If so, does anyone know the best place online to order one? My manual hasn't arrived yet. Saturday at the earliest and probably will be Monday/Tuesday. Would like to ride before then and don't want any clutch surprises. The thing lurches and dies when you put it in gear after letting it warm up on the stand for about 5 minutes. When I test drove it, it did the same thing but the owner said that it needed to warm up longer, so he gave it a bit more gas and put it in gear and rode for a couple of minutes and it was much better after that. It appears that there is no play in the clutch lever and also appears that the cable is adjusted as far as it will go, so I suspect the cable needs replacing due to being stretched out.

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×