Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

No power to bike

Recommended Posts

I just replaced my stock tail light with a led one from the DRZ store, as well as the TUFF light led signals from the the DRZ store, (just the rear) I have a 2009 drz SM.

 

The tail light had great wiring instructions, the turn signals, not so much. (or i misplaced them...)

I just tested them by twisting the wires together until they both worked, then doing my splice. I ended up blowing the outer most 20 amp fuse above the battery. So i unplugged the turn signals (unfortunately I did not write down in what order i had them plugged in originally.) then i rewired them again so that they would both work, by just turing the key to the on position and turning on the blinker. This fixed the problem, the bike started right up. 

 

Now here is the issue, the bike ran great for about 5 minutes while i put all the plastics back on. Just as i was putting the last bolt in, the bike started to sputter a coupe of times, really subtle sputters but enough to make me curious, then the bike died. Now i have no power and the fuse is not blown, even more interesting, when i turn the key in-between the off and on selection i have power, but when i try to start it, it just buzzes really fast, or clicks like a dead battery.

 

I did not disconnect the battery before any of the work.

 

I do not have a electrical tester at the moment, can i put my car battery charger on it to see if that is the problem? it will charge 6v/12 volt.

 

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated,

thanks,

Danny

Edited by Danny V.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is not clear what you would like to use the car battery charger for.  Do you mean connect the charger to the DRZ battery while it is in the motorcycle?  Most car chargers deliver more amperage than is good for the battery but as long as it is not a boost charger it should be OK for a short me.  Safest way is to remove the battery from the motorcycle and charge it off the bike.  You can use a 1156 tail light bulb in series with the carger to limit the current.  Bad practice to use a charger in place of a battery as a power source. Without a battery most chargers are not fully voltage regulated.

 

From your description of the problem, it sounds like a bad ignition switch.  As a test you can remove the switch and jump red to orange and gray to brown.. Everything should work normal.  Red is power from the battery, orange powers up the harness including the gray wire. Gray wire feeds power to the brown wire which is the tail light.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the charger 'Automatic'?  If it is you should be ok.   Better yet if it is automatic and there is a 2amp or 4amp setting then it will work fine.

 

Other options include 'pop starting'  (aka bomb starting, push starting), or using jumper cables from a car battery.

 

The buzzing does sound like a dead battery.  Have a look at the taillight while trying to start as it should stay bright unlike the headlight which turns off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also a good idea to look at the electrical schematic and confirm you wired the turns correctly and that everything else that you messed with is put back together properly

This is for 2005+ SM & S models

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399733907.863315.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also a good idea to look at the electrical schematic and confirm you wired the turns correctly and that everything else that you messed with is put back together properly

This is for 2005+ SM & S models

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399733907.863315.jpg

Yes turns out i wired my tail light wrong, oops!  :facepalm:  :naughty:

Got it correctly re-wired and this time i soldered and used shrink tube and now she works like a top! thanks for the help.

Is the charger 'Automatic'?  If it is you should be ok.   Better yet if it is automatic and there is a 2amp or 4amp setting then it will work fine.

 

Other options include 'pop starting'  (aka bomb starting, push starting), or using jumper cables from a car battery.

 

The buzzing does sound like a dead battery.  Have a look at the taillight while trying to start as it should stay bright unlike the headlight which turns off.

Is it safe to jump a motorcycle battery off a car battery?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Is it safe to jump a motorcycle battery off a car battery?"------- Let me clarify.  You mean jump to a motorcycle battery while installed in the motorcycle to start a motorcycle with a low battery and the jump is disconnected as soon as the motorcycle starts?   Yes.   Assuming there are no defects in the motorcycle charging system that will be made worse by applying power to the system.  It is recommend the donor vehicle not be running to keep the jump at battery voltage rather than charging system voltage.  Probably makes no difference but there is no reason to have the donor vehicle running so don't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Both the bike and the car are 12V batteries.  The physical size only matters for reserve capacity and the peak amperage that the battery can deliver.  Our little bike batteries will not have much success starting a diesel truck for example.  Other than that you can connect them with no harm.  A possible exception would be a defective battery which could have shorted internally and will heat up from the current.  A face shield is always a good idea around batteries. 

 

If you start the bike with a jump from the car then as soon as the bike is running it will be charging whatever is connected so the bike battery and the car battery.  Since the combined size is large it would take longer to top them off.  A good reason not to have the car running is that both the running bike and the running car would have charge systems feeding the batteries.  Depending on the designs not all play well with others.

 

If you are ever stuck up in the bush with a dead truck battery from a light left on or something feel free to connect the bike to the truck (or car, etc) to charge it.  I have done it numerous times for people and depending on the vehicle it takes 5 to 10 minutes to charge the vehicle enough.  I use 18 or 16 guage speaker wire because it can handle the 10 amps or so the bike has extra for the other vehicle plus it offers a degree of overload protection.  Thinner wire is also easier to carry.  Note that this is not jumping the vehicle off the bike battery but is using the bikes charge system to charge the vehicles own battery so if that is damaged it may not hold the charge well enough to start the vehicle.

 

You could also use a riding lawnmower, snowblower, quad, another bike, or whatever you have with a 12v battery at least close to as big as the bikes.  Too small and the battery could just drain without starting the bike and possibly harm the small battery..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×