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Oil Problem

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I run a stock (except exhaust) DRZ 400, I have not long done a full rebuild but since the re build I have no oil on the dip stick after putting 2 ltrs in the bike it shows on the stick until I start it, once warmed up there is nothing on the stick!!  The oil is there as I don't have any major leaks and its is returning up to the frame as I have run the bike with the top pipe off and saw oils comming out at the head of the frame....Any Ideas please?  I did think it was the cheak valve but its there and the spring etc is all there too.

Thanks in advance guys.

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It's a dry sump.  Check the level 3 minutes after you turn it off.  The level goes down with time.

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It's a dry sump.  Check the level 3 minutes after you turn it off.  The level goes down with time.

No, its not dry sump.  The oil does not even register on the stick while running and also when off.  I have tried to dip the oil a few times after running it!

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No, its not dry sump.  The oil does not even register on the stick while running and also when off.  I have tried to dip the oil a few times after running it!

Sir, your not understanding....You got a correct response.

 

 YES the DRZ is a DRY Sump pressure fed oil system 

Dry sump refers to  the scavenging oil pump which continually moves oil from the engine sump to the oil tank.. making the engine sump "dry"

 

 You can not check the oil tank with the engine running and get a correct reading.

 

You must follow the oil check procedure exactly to get a accurate reading.

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If you run the motor for about 2 minutes and turn it off, you should get a reading at that time(this time allowance pumps oil into the frame to get a reading off a cold motor). If you don't get a reading something isn't right with the pumping system or your extremely low on oil.

but once the bike is warm and running, you should be able to get a reading at any time once you turn off the motor, or until the oil drains back towards the sump after many minutes(then you wont get a reading anymore). Its actually good to know the differnces the stick reads off a hot motor and a cold motor.

Did you just change the oil?

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Mike - after a full rebuild you may need a bit more oil.  You can add up to another 1/4 L.  There is not much volume difference between full and add on the dip stick.  With 2 L you are safe to run the motor regardless of what the dip stick shows.  Oil change volume will be normal with the first oil change.

 

Dry sump just means most of the motor oil is contained some place other than the bottom (sump) of the motor.  The DRZ of course carries most of the oil in the frame where you check it.

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If you run the motor for about 2 minutes and turn it off, you should get a reading at that time(this time allowance pumps oil into the frame to get a reading off a cold motor). If you don't get a reading something isn't right with the pumping system or your extremely low on oil.

but once the bike is warm and running, you should be able to get a reading at any time once you turn off the motor, or until the oil drains back towards the sump after many minutes(then you wont get a reading anymore). Its actually good to know the differnces the stick reads off a hot motor and a cold motor.

Did you just change the oil?

 

 

hmm, cold engine, do you calculate the days since it last ran * viscosity / some string theory ? 

 

i'm just not understanding how you're going to use a cold measurement at all ? 

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As far as oil check, anything other than recently ran within in the last 30 minutes, would be considered cold, but over night is a good term for a cold check. Basically, if you check the oil when oil temps are over 200degrees, the oil will read higher on the stick than if you checked the oil around air temperature.

That's why I say its good to know the cold and hot stick condition, so you can check it wherever and when ever, of course the cold start check will give the most accurate reading. Are you pulling my leg or does this seem hard?

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Many thanks to you all that replied, sorry I have not been on-line to answer any of them till now.  The bike has been run round the block, fully warm and then diped straight away.....Stick DRY (Not a drip on it)....also left to sit 2-3 mins and the same, not a drop is registering on the stick!  This is an on going problem since the rebuild so I have not been using the bike but need to get the cob webs away now!!

I have oil coming out the gear leaver side where the oil goes upto the tank.....there is oil coming out the pipe where it enters the tank but its squirting out rather than flowing out???  would I be right to say I have a broken oil pump?.....I have had it out and split both 1/2's of the pump and nothing seams to be damaged.........  Sorry guys but I need your expert help!!

 

Thanks again folks, please help! lol

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Many thanks to you all that replied, sorry I have not been on-line to answer any of them till now.  The bike has been run round the block, fully warm and then diped straight away.....Stick DRY (Not a drip on it)....also left to sit 2-3 mins and the same, not a drop is registering on the stick!  This is an on going problem since the rebuild so I have not been using the bike but need to get the cob webs away now!!

I have oil coming out the gear leaver side where the oil goes upto the tank.....there is oil coming out the pipe where it enters the tank but its squirting out rather than flowing out???  would I be right to say I have a broken oil pump?.....I have had it out and split both 1/2's of the pump and nothing seams to be damaged.........  Sorry guys but I need your expert help!!

 

Thanks again folks, please help! lol

Either oil is not being scavenged and returned to the tank (oil pump idler gear broke) or the check valve is not working and the tank is draining right back to the motor. 

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As far as oil check, anything other than recently ran within in the last 30 minutes, would be considered cold, but over night is a good term for a cold check. Basically, if you check the oil when oil temps are over 200degrees, the oil will read higher on the stick than if you checked the oil around air temperature.

That's why I say its good to know the cold and hot stick condition, so you can check it wherever and when ever, of course the cold start check will give the most accurate reading. Are you pulling my leg or does this seem hard?

 

 

just a little leg pulling, as the overnight measurement you're showing isn't accurate. 

 

i've always checked the oil:

1 directly after a fuel fillup at the station.

2 directly after shutting it off for the day, or next few hours. 

 

then, provided there isn't a huge puddle beneath it on return, i know the oil level is safe for the next ride, and there is no guess work. 

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Did you split the cases during the rebuild?  If you did, did you remove the scavenger strainer at all whilst in there? Are you sure it's bolted back on the right way round? Sounds stupid but I have done this!

 

How much more oil does it take to actually read a correct oil level? Mine took between 2.3 and 2.5L (I'm talking UK litres). If this is the case you should be able to get a constant reading of full using the correct oil check procedure, but with more oil than it should take.

 

Have you found the clutch is also dragging slightly as well since the rebuild? Slightly sticky into neutral? An indicator that there is too much oil remaining in the crankcases. Also when I did this, I measured the amount of oil staying in the sump, when hot, using the oil check procedure than draining. Mine was usually around 800-1200ml

 

Hopefully this is not he case for you as you will need to split the cases again to fix it, but I did run mine for about a year like this and no damage came from it, although I wouldn't want to say that yours will definitely be fine as well.

 

Hope this helps.

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just a little leg pulling, as the overnight measurement you're showing isn't accurate. 

 

i've always checked the oil:

1 directly after a fuel fillup at the station.

2 directly after shutting it off for the day, or next few hours. 

 

then, provided there isn't a huge puddle beneath it on return, i know the oil level is safe for the next ride, and there is no guess work.

what Ive found, if you check the oil off a cold start, and its full, at full temp the oil will be slightly above the full mark which is normal, so with your method reading full at the gas station, motor is already full hot, so you'd find it lower on the harsh marks doing it the other way when its cold. That's why I say good to know how the stick reads cold and hot.

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