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Looking at a drz400s and dr650se

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So I've narrowed down what dual sport bike I want. Both are 2013's at the local Suzuki dealer, so rider info, I'm greener then the green horns usually on the wizard, never been on a street bike, I did ride a 96 rm 250 a few times and managed to no kill myself or stall it on semi flat surfaces. Hills. That was a different stories. But. I'm 6'3" and 260lb.

So with that said

I'm deciding between either the 400s or 650se, and here's the break down in my head, and thoughts, if I'm off or wrong please explain to me why so I can learn why!!!

The 400s

+ modern looking

+ liquid cooled for the 90-95* summer days

+ adjustable front forks

+ lighter over the 650

From reading to make this a reliable bike for the 15000-20000 miles I plan on keeping either bike i have to do

- The manual cam chain tensioner mod so it don't kill the cam chain in no time flat

- upper chain roller removal

For the 650se

+ it's a 650 so open roads should be more relaxed in the 55-60mph zone

+ feels a tad more comfortable sitting on it

+ no radiator to worry about if I drop it a time or two

+ low tech/old school tech (no stupid electronic issues)

+ it's grey not black (not a black fan)

And for the 650 to make it reliable

- the neutral switch, have to rip the side cover off and clutch to lock tite this (why don't Suzuki do that?!?!?!)

- side stand switch bypass (that's easy)

- upper chain roller removal

So that's whats in my head. Price wise they are within about $150 of each other. So price isn't a factor. But now some questions. On the 650, how soon do I have to worry about the neutral switch? Can it wait till like 4-5000 miles so I can do this in the winter when I can't ride this? On the 400, do I need to tear everything off it to do the mcct or is there a faster way that I can just pull the spark plug and rotate motor over till its at or near tdc without having to pull the shrouds and gas tank and valve cover? On either model, is there any problems I'm missing or should know of? Which bike would you recommend? And also. Neither bike have a tach, and I would kinda like to have one, I seen the older 650's had a tach... Can I get an old gauge cluster and plug and play? Or just go to jegs and get a jegs tach that works on a single cylinder motor and wire it up and be on my way?

Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!

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What are you intending to use your bike for? Both are excellent platforms for their intended purpose. The DR650 is more of a dualsport and the DRZ a dirt bike with lights. Doesn't fare much worse off road than the Z but is light years ahead on the street. As for the neutral sending bolts. Haven't done the fix yet on my 2012 (12000 miles) A lot of people do it straight up so as not to forget or eliminate any risk. I'll probably get around to it next oil change..or so I keep telling myself

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What are you intending to use your bike for? Both are excellent platforms for their intended purpose. The DR650 is more of a dualsport and the DRZ a dirt bike with lights. Doesn't fare much worse off road than the Z but is light years ahead on the street. As for the neutral sending bolts. Haven't done the fix yet on my 2012 (12000 miles) A lot of people do it straight up so as not to forget or eliminate any risk. I'll probably get around to it next oil change..or so I keep telling myself

Yep, what he said. My brother owned a DRZ400, did some big trips with me and the usual trail riding when we could. He ended up selling the 400 and bought a 650. Could not handle the hard work and discomfort trying to keep up on the longer sections of trips. He felt the 650 whilst not as good in the bush was still very capable, just had to go a little slower. I did my NSU very soon after reading about it. He's at about 8000 km ( 5000mile ish) And I gotta get around to doing it for him soon.

 

Cheers Richo

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Thanks for the replies, mostly going be on street, country roads more so about 70% of the time, 20% urban, 5% interstate, and 5% random dirt roads once I get my feet wet riding and learned the bike so I don't kill myself

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Mostly road, get a dr 650. No need to worry about hot weather. It runs cool for an aircooled engine. The nsu screws are up to you. Easy to do though. I believe they changed the nsu screws to cap screws for 2013. As far as a tach, they make small digital tachs for pretty cheap or you could get a vapor for about $100. The dr is very capable off road. You won't want to tripple jumps like james stewart, but the big dr can hold its own. I suggest you check out drriders.com. it's a dr650 specific forum with tons of info and a very knowledgeable community.

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Thanks for the link. And I don't plan on jumping. I'd probably land on my head and kill myself

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I owned a DR650SE and I now have a DRZ400S.  As has been stated, both are great bikes. The DR is more road oriented and the DRZ is more off-road oriented.  The DR is happier in the low-mid range RPMs and the DRZ is happier in the mid-high RPM range.  Both have tons of upgrade potential and the after market is overloaded with great things for each.  In your case, I would probably go with the DR since you're mostly road riding with some light offroading.

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When it comes to the DRZ400, it is an extremely old design compared to other bikes in it's class. The features and build of the DRZ date back to the mid 90's, in a class where changes are usually every 5-7 years or so. It also has poor suspension for bikes in it's class. It's also heavy in relation to bikes in it's class. When compared to the Honda CRF450X (which is also way overdue for a remake), it's so far behind it's not even funny. I've owned both, and the Honda was light years ahead, and like I stated, the Honda is still overdue.

 

The DR650 is different, because that type/class of bike ages differently. It's more common for those types of bikes to run for 20 years unchanged. Take the Honda XR600/650, they were unchanged for decades, yet still a good bike. The KLR650 is another one, which only recently got an updated look, but still carries the same motor.

 

So, having owned a DRZ400, I'd buy the DR650 without hesitation.

Edited by yellowdatsun

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Thanks for the replies, mostly going be on street, country roads more so about 70% of the time, 20% urban, 5% interstate, and 5% random dirt roads once I get my feet wet riding and learned the bike so I don't kill myself

 

 

get the dr650, do the neutral fix, and you're going to -have- to respring it for your weight. 

 

you will love it's responsiveness and offraod capabilities, if/when you do it. the drz has better suspension out of the box, but you're going to have to respring both of them for your weight. 

 

the power is very similar, but the dr is a better bike for back roads/cruising. much more relaxed and torquey down low. if you slap some knobbies on it, it is transformed to a tiller. 

 

if you decide the dirt is not for you, check out the 'hooligan mod' for your dr or drz. it makes an ergonomically sound machine so much more enjoyable on the street. (tall guys deserve bikes that have non-sucky ergos)

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I just bought a 2013 650.. so far so good... unfortunately no manual (still working with the dealer to get one).. so I have a few questions..  Fuel economy seems bad to start and bike seems to run rich... I'll wait to do anything until broken in though..

Fuel tank question...  if you run it on reserve (forget to switch after filling) and run out, can you turn to on and does it then act like reserve?  Make sense?  Or if you are on reserve and run out are you done? 

ALso if it is running rich, can I drill a couple holes in side of airbox cover to lean it up a bit? 

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If you bought it new its should be lean. If you run out of gas on reserve your walking. And you can download the service manual free on mxrob.com. iF it is rich you should adjust your carb. The proper procedure for this can be found on mxrob's site also. Check out drriders.com. it's a dr650 specific forum.

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Well just bought a leftover 13 dr 650, took the 0% for 60months.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1400522926.072600.jpg

Just like mine... I gave 4999.00 for it in Minn.

One thing I found out the hard way... if you turn the key all the way to the left after locking the steering, it turns on the taillight and

will drain the battery...I parked mine during daylight on day 1 and found out the next morning...

Enjoy...

 

btw, what is the side stand bypass switch mod you mentioned earlier?

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From reading, if you pop off the left side panel. There's a green connector for the safety switch. Unplug, get some spade connectors and jump the wire coming from the front of the bike, it stop it from shutting down if the side stand rattles enough on a rough road. Looks like a 5 min $1 mod.

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Im in the same pickle. Ive got a DR 350 & ride it to work. Its great on fuel, but anything above 55 mph is a struggle. I thought to just buy a streetbike along with the DR but cant justify the both, as much as Id like to. So its either that or just upgrade to a 650 & call it good. That's the decision Ive made also. Just need to wait till fall or mid winter to make my move. Probably keep the old 350 too, always nice to have a backup.

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Sorry to keep asking the "dumb questions" but, I am still waiting for my owners manual.... Oil plug?  On the bottom?  FIlter housing on right?

What is the capacity for the oil?    Need to do the original oil change and I doubt the manual will make it...  I friggin hate getting a bike without one...salesman promised to order and send one... yeah right..

 

Thanks,

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Filter is behind the cover where it says Suzuki on the right side. Drain plug is on the bottom. I don't have the bike yet, picking it up thursday

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Oh I will. Making for some long nights at work waiting to go get this bike. Lol

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If you do the sidestand by pass, the best way to do it is to go to the relay to the right of the cdi. Pull the relay and jumper either of the orange wires to the green wire. The reason this is better is it eliminates the switch and the relay that are not needed. And if the relay goes bad even though the sidestand switch is bypassed, your bike still won't run.

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