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Stiff Crank After rebuild

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Hey guys,

 

So, for this of you who have been following my post, you know that I had my Wiseco crank replaced for being defective. Well, Wiseco recently sent me a brand new crank and I finally had the opportunity to drop the baby in. The rebuild went really well up until it was put all together. I can't seem to spin the crank freely. It requires a considerable amount of force to get the crank to turn over. I know I put everything back together properly. When I had the side cover off, i changed out the water pump seals, and after installation, I noticed that there was a lot more drag.  I did lube the water pump shaft. Now, my question is, could the water pump shaft be causing the crank to have a lot of resistance? 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Thanks!!

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You canTap on the crank with a rubber hammer on each end to get the free play you are looking for.   

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Ya,what he said, a very soft hammer with a single light tap will do it. Brass hammer is what iv'e used for years.

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I'd say stick with a soft rubber mallet

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So after further investigation, i loosened up the primary drive bolt and wahlah! it freed up the crank. If i even hand tighten the primary drive bolt, it becomes stiff again. I need to torque the bolt down so it doesn't ruin the engine. I also tried smacking both ends of the crank with a mallet and still no avail. Anything else? 

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Are you using a Crank Installer tool?

I had a similar problem when the crank shaft was not fully seated or pulled into the left half case main bearing. then when everything went together it would not spin freely because the case halfs when bolted together pinched the crank.

 

Try pulling on the left crank side before you take it apart it may free up and you will be good to go.

 

Please do not hit the crank with any kind of hammer. you do so at your own risk.

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Are you using a Crank Installer tool?

I had a similar problem when the crank shaft was not fully seated or pulled into the left half case main bearing. then when everything went together it would not spin freely because the case halfs when bolted together pinched the crank.

 

Try pulling on the left crank side before you take it apart it may free up and you will be good to go.

 

Please do not hit the crank with any kind of hammer. you do so at your own risk.

 

I didn't use a crank puller. What i did was took a socket the same size of the inner race and heated it. I then placed the socket into the inner race to heat the bearing. i then took my crank out of the freezer and dropped it right in. 

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Can anyone tell me if the primary drive gear is supposed to be flush with the end of the crank? When the primary gear is installed on the crank, it sticks out just a hair. I think that's what's causing the crank to become stiff. If this is the case, what should I do?

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401153115.700665.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401153144.416986.jpg

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Can anyone tell me if the primary drive gear is supposed to be flush with the end of the crank? When the primary gear is installed on the crank, it sticks out just a hair. I think that's what's causing the crank to become stiff. If this is the case, what should I do?

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401153115.700665.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1401153144.416986.jpg

Sorry about the image quality. Mine apears to be flush.

0411141957.jpg

0411141957a.jpg

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On my 96 the primary is not lfush like that. It looks weird in your pics. I agree about not hitting the crank with a hammer of any sorts. I have never done that. You need a crank puller to make sure it is pulled all the way into the case half.

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On my 96 the primary is not lfush like that. It looks weird in your pics. I agree about not hitting the crank with a hammer of any sorts. I have never done that. You need a crank puller to make sure it is pulled all the way into the case half.

 

So, I finally figured out what the hell was causing the crank to be so stiff. The steel collar that goes around the crank, which the seal sits around, was too damn tight. That collar is supposed to spin with the crank right?

 

Also, is this normal? I noticed that the crank comes at a very high point and drops to a low point during a full revolution. Here is the video. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv4S_PdD9GA&feature=youtu.be

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The video was reviewed by a manager at Wiseco and they're taking it back. This will be the third time I will be splitting the cases. Lets hope I don't have anymore problems after this.

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My engine builder has seen a lot of failed Weisco cranks. They are junk. You would be better off taking a good used oem crank and having it rebuilt with a hot rods rod kit. I wouldn't use weisco cranks. I have seen pictures of the flywheel end of the cranks breaking off.

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