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First oil change and requirements.

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Hey guys changing my oil right away. Very low miles but I'm picky :)

Anyways, I have a replacement oil filter and a spare set of o-rings. I saw a vid on YouTube about how to change the oil and It looks simple enough. Here are my questions.

Do you clean the filter for a few changes before you toss it? Or should I just put my replacement filter in now?

In the video I watched, the guy said he replaces the crush washers on the drain plugs every other time. Should I get new crush washers for the plugs? Will my local dealer have those washers? If not can you order just the crush washers from an eom parts store?

If anyone has any tips or important information I will need to know when changing my oil I would love the input.

Thanks guys :)

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Hey guys changing my oil right away. Very low miles but I'm picky :)

Anyways, I have a replacement oil filter and a spare set of o-rings. I saw a vid on YouTube about how to change the oil and It looks simple enough. Here are my questions.

Do you clean the filter for a few changes before you toss it? Or should I just put my replacement filter in now?

In the video I watched, the guy said he replaces the crush washers on the drain plugs every other time. Should I get new crush washers for the plugs? Will my local dealer have those washers? If not can you order just the crush washers from an eom parts store?

If anyone has any tips or important information I will need to know when changing my oil I would love the input.

Thanks guys :)

Thumpertalk sells an oil change kit with the crush washers, o-rings, filter, and oil that has all your necessary parts.

Do not re-use your oil filter, ever.

Yes, replace your crush washers.

Yes, your local dealer should have them.

 

Do NOT over-torque your oil drain plug or it will crack your case. Make sure to use a torque wrench.

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Make sure when you install the crush washers to put the flat side against the case, tapered side gets crushed by the bolt head.

Cleaning the frame oil screen every so often isn't a bad idea. The copper washers for the banjo bolts can be reused if you heat them red hot with a MAPP torch

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so i have a torque wrench that covers 120 - 960 inch pounds. so thats like 10-80 or something in ft lbs. will this be adequate for torquing the drain plugs?

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unfortunately i was unaware i would need crush washers for the drain bolts when i purchased the replacement oil filter and o rings. so i will just have to wait until i get them from my dealer or other if they dont carry. 

 

i know on my tw200 there is a bolt to loosen and check to make sure the oil is flowing. Is there something like that on the drz?

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I would not use a 10 to 80 ft lb torque wrench to tighten a drain plug to 15 ft lb.  Better off doing it by feel.


 


You can substitute Honda 12mm aluminum drain plug washers if that is more convenient.  Any Honda product - MC, Car, power equipment that uses 12mm aluminum washer is fine.


 


Yes there is an oil flow check plug. It is in the head above the cam chain tensioner.  Easier to just remove the oil fill/dip stick and watch for oil to return to the oil tank.

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Hey guys changing my oil right away. Very low miles but I'm picky :)

Anyways, I have a replacement oil filter and a spare set of o-rings. I saw a vid on YouTube about how to change the oil and It looks simple enough. Here are my questions.

Do you clean the filter for a few changes before you toss it? Or should I just put my replacement filter in now?

In the video I watched, the guy said he replaces the crush washers on the drain plugs every other time. Should I get new crush washers for the plugs? Will my local dealer have those washers? If not can you order just the crush washers from an eom parts store?

If anyone has any tips or important information I will need to know when changing my oil I would love the input.

Thanks guys :)

Harbor Freight sells an assortment of copper washers for not a lot of $$. or, you can heat (anneal) used copper washers with the calrod burner on your stove. It will appear a light pink color when it has been heated enough.

 

Are you using a Type V motorcycle specific oil?

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The dealership gave me yamalube 10w-40 four stroke all purpose. Should I use something else? Engine is brand new

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The dealership gave me yamalube 10w-40 four stroke all purpose. Should I use something else? Engine is brand new

Provided it is JASO rated, you should be ok.

 

I like Redline Motorcycle 20-50 Synthetic

Edited by Bermudacat

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Those flat thick aluminum washers, I cant recall ever having one leak on any motor.

Now if you go to a Jiffy lube, they install some little cheesy thin crush washer , and they tend to crack real easy and leak.

But the thick aluminum flat washers on many motorcycles Ive actually ran the orignals for life and never replaced them for far more miles than a drz will normally live.

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Copper washers are OK. But keep in mind they do not give much.  Completely different feel from a folded steel crush washer and not he safely factor of a soft aluminum washer that will squeeze out if over tightened.  With copper, once it is down solid, that's it.  KTM likes copper washers, fine as long as not over tightened.

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i love oil topics heheh .. mine has the original drain plug thing and ive lost count on how many changes ive done, i figure, no problems if its not leaking and dont torque it past where it 'stops hard' its a drain bolt remember that .. its not supporting the motor .. and make sure the surfaces are clean, free of grit, and if the bolt gets dirty take the time to clean it in something before putting it back in the hole ..

.. for the first few oil changes i would just use what you have, dont put any fancy synthetic super duper oil in it before its broke in ... the JASOma rating is what to look for on any 4 stroke jap bike these days .. my opinion is use the proper weight rating to, but its just my personal opinion .. 'making an engine quieter' by using a thicker oil doesnt mean its getting slung or flowing the best to the right places .. just how i look at it .. oil filter isnt so critical on these imo, just change it at the designated times .. i didnt see anything on mine when i changed it looked like new, ive only changed it once .. i might do it again soon i dont feel its quite there yet lol ...

.. as far as any other 'orings' or whatnot i havent had any problems .. its a 2000 and all the pipes and orings im sure are original oem ..

Edited by cowpie

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Hey guys changing my oil right away. Very low miles but I'm picky :)

Do you clean the filter for a few changes before you toss it? Or should I just put my replacement filter in now?

?

If anyone has any tips or important information I will need to know when changing my oil I would love the input.

Thanks guys :)

If mainly street, I'd change the filters every oil change for the first 10,000 miles, then you can do every other change after that, assuming your doing 2000 mile intervals or less on oil change.

The first filter is normally not the worst, its normally the second or third. After ten thousand miles the filters will run fairly clean.

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The Filters are so cheap .. I would never add fresh oil and leave the used filter in

 

Absolutely.....

 

A couple of litres of oil and filter change every time is still cheap insurance for engine longevity....

 

And Chooken's oil testing done a couple of years back has shown that frequent oil changes intervals should be done...

 

Hey Chook, Have you got any of those charts lying around..???? 

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