'05 Suspension Mods

[jethrosteel]

i'm going to have to update the front and rear suspension on this bike that I just got.  I've never done this before but I am comfortable in the garage doing most anything mechanical.  My questions are as follows:

1) Springs - Can I do this myself?

2) Valving - Can I do this myself?

           I had one vendor telling me that if I hadn't done valving before "you've got no business going in there."  

3) Has anyone purchased the entire enchilada from Race Tech?  What was your experience with part quality and technical support?

 

Thanks

 

[sintax]

Springs are easy, if you can change your oil you should not have any issues with those.

 

Valving is really not that hard, assuming you have the shim stack info that you want to run. If you dont have access to a shim stack database, i'd leave this one to the pros, you'll do more damage than good.

 

If you are going to do a mail order suspension job, i'd suggest TBT Suspension. They do better work than anyone i've use before.

[MrRong]

I would do springs and new oil in both the shock and forks. I wouldnt dream of touching the valving without having the correct spring rate. Without fresh oil and the correct spring rate it is impossible to tell what is right and what is wrong. I know for me and michigan riding the stock valving is almost dead on. With new oil and the correct springs the bike handles light yrs better than it did before. I'm not done messing with the clickers just yet, so for right now I'm sticking with the stock valving. Further more, if you don't know what you are doing with the valving you might want to pay someone to do it. If you don't minding stripping your forks and shock down a few times and think you have good idea on valving theory then go for it.

[FORMA MOTO]

With the stock forks, they do not stay up in the stroke very well, and drop down into the 'mid stroke harshness' quite quickly.

It is easily worth the money to get a full re-spring and re-valve to match your weight and riding style. 

It will be the single biggest improvement you can make to the bike.

 

To change the fork oil you need to disassemble the forks, so you can fill and then bleed the inner chamber. 

Edited May 13, 2014 by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick

[jethrosteel]

Thanks. I'm actually getting ready to come to MI and ride the trails near Roscommon, Geels etc. I'll pursue the springs first and see where things stand.

Any recommendations on who to get the springs from? I'm 6'6" and 300#.

[MrRong]

Thanks. I'm actually getting ready to come to MI and ride the trails near Roscommon, Geels etc. I'll pursue the springs first and see where things stand.

Any recommendations on who to get the springs from? I'm 6'6" and 300#.

I bought mine from eibach, check with them for spring rates...if you are going to be in Roscommon I would recommend heading over to the Denton creek trail system, one of my favorite places to ride, you can hit a bunch of other systems right off Denton creek. But be careful and stay on the ORV trails, you will get a big ticket if you venture onto the snowmobile trails

[jethrosteel]

Thanks for the advice.

It's interesting that you should mention the snowmobile trails. I've been looking at the DNR maps. They reference ORV passes, DNR passes, trail passes and of course the Secretary of State licensing. Everyone I go to purchase the ORV sticker no one has any idea about the others. Got any insight? What gets me a free pass on the snowmobile trails?

[DMC707]

 Without fresh oil and the correct spring rate it is impossible to tell what is right and what is wrong. I know for me and michigan riding the stock valving is almost dead on. With new oil and the correct springs the bike handles light yrs better than it did before. I'm not done messing with the clickers just yet, so for right now I'm sticking with the stock valving. 

 

 

Yes --- stock valving for me was also stunningly effective for tight woods riding after i got the correct springs in   ---- i have ran it in MX races like that too  and can attest that the valving is too soft for MX,  but i knew going in that its not an MX bike   ----  The X doesnt care whether its an MX bike or not --- it defies categories for me time and time again  ---  its just an all around good bike for everything i have thrown at it.    

    I have 2 of these bikes, so one is still running stock valving with springs for my weight,   the other was re-valved and re-sprung by Factory Connection with the focus being higher speed Western type riding and GP style MX

 

 

But to get back on point --- Cannon racecraft makes springs for guys like you who should be playing defensive end for the Steelers instead of riding dirt bikes  ?

[MrRong]

I bought mine from eibach, check with them for spring rates...if you are going to be in Roscommon I would recommend heading over to the Denton creek trail system, one of my favorite places to ride, you can hit a bunch of other systems right off Denton creek. But be careful and stay on the ORV trails, you will get a big ticket if you venture onto the snowmobile trails

ORV's changed this year. They now cast $36.25 for both stickers, you have to have both stickers if you want to ride on ORV trails. There are certain parts of the MCCCT system that you need to be plated for otherwise you are good with the orv stickers. The only time you can ride on any type of snowmobile trail is if they are part of the ORV route, ORV routes are open to all users (fullsize vehicles down to dirtbikes) and you must have either a plate or the ORV stickers. There are roughly 300 some miles of dual use trails in the state and they are used as connector routes to link trail systems. You can buy your ORV from any place that sells fishing licenses, but not at the SOS. Do yourself a favor and stay on the marked trails and off the snowmobile trails. It is a misdemeanor ticket if you get caught in an area you are not supposed to be in and the DNR doesn't play. If you get caught, even if you didn't know, expect a ticket.

Use these links to help with trail maps

http://www.vvmapping.com/trails/trailInfoMI.html

http://www.michigan.gov/dnr/0,1607,7-153-10365_15070-38330--,00.html

[Half-Full]

Springs are easy, if you can change your oil you should not have any issues with those.

Valving is really not that hard, assuming you have the shim stack info that you want to run. If you dont have access to a shim stack database, i'd leave this one to the pros, you'll do more damage than good.

If you are going to do a mail order suspension job, i'd suggest TBT Suspension. They do better work than anyone i've use before.

+1 for TBT racing