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sag setting. 6.0kg race tech rear spring bottoming out

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i recently installed a 6.0kg rear spring but i dont think the sag is set right or i need something else done cause i keep bottoming out on my exhaust leaving a mark, and still really soft and others that sat on my bike can agree, i have no leaks or no damages. so maybe sag needs to be corrected? maybe a nitrogen service?  :confused:

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Call this guy, he is suspension Jedi.

 

Contacting Thermosman

 

 

Phone   770-500-6445 Email   Thermosman@gmail.com Address   193 Highlands Drive
Woodstock, GA 30188
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Call this guy, he is suspension Jedi.

 

Contacting Thermosman

 

 

Phone   770-500-6445 Email   Thermosman@gmail.com Address   193 Highlands Drive

Woodstock, GA 30188

 

will do thanks

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i recently installed a 6.0kg rear spring but i dont think the sag is set right or i need something else done cause i keep bottoming out on my exhaust leaving a mark, and still really soft and others that sat on my bike can agree, i have no leaks or no damages. so maybe sag needs to be corrected? maybe a nitrogen service? :confused:

how much you weighing in at?

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Seems a bit on the light side as far as the spring goes! I'm right at 258lbs and I collaborated with both Racetech and Cannon RaceCraft and we came up with a ~7.0 rear spring but that would of been a special order so I saved a few bucks by going with a 6.8 that was already made up.

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Seems a bit on the light side as far as the spring goes! I'm right at 258lbs and I collaborated with both Racetech and Cannon RaceCraft and we came up with a ~7.0 rear spring but that would of been a special order so I saved a few bucks by going with a 6.8 that was already made up.

nice well tbats tbe least of my worrys now i went cor a ride today and after i get back i notice my clutch is making a shit load of rattling my rear wheel isnt being disengaged. I can pull in the clutch and still roll down the block stop at the stop sign and not stall and roll away i dont understand. Its stressing me tbe hell out

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Cable stretched? Hopefully your clutch isn't going out! I don't think it's super expensive for new plates but money nonetheless!

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Cable stretched? Hopefully your clutch isn't going out! I don't think it's super expensive for new plates but money nonetheless!

man i think thats it cause i had to take off the cable from the clutch lever to give slack so i can move the shift lever to the 12 o clock position

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A shock that's lost it's charge will make a back end really soft, but also springy as the spring works, but the shock isn't controlling the motions. 

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A shock that's lost it's charge will make a back end really soft, but also springy as the spring works, but the shock isn't controlling the motions. 

is charging it easy? i have nitrogen at the shop i work at maybe i can do it myself? lol

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i recently installed a 6.0kg rear spring but i dont think the sag is set right or i need something else done cause i keep bottoming out on my exhaust leaving a mark, and still really soft and others that sat on my bike can agree, i have no leaks or no damages. so maybe sag needs to be corrected? maybe a nitrogen service?  :confused:

 

With the suspension fully compressed the tire will almost touch the underside of the fender... since the exhaust can hangs lower it's possible for the tire to hit it if either: the tire is really wide, exhaust can is pushed inward, and/or subframe is tweaked.  On mine when I bottom out its normal for the tire to scuff the side of the muffler can... but then again I drop and abuse it off-road so I'm sure things are tweaked (subframe, exhaust, etc..)

 

Do you have lowering links?  What was your race sag set to?  It's bottoming out while you’re riding, correct?  On the street, fire trails, single track, what...?  Like others have mentioned, I'd start with checking the nitrogen.  You'll need a zero-loss chuck to properly fill it and about 150-175 psi.

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With the suspension fully compressed the tire will almost touch the underside of the fender... since the exhaust can hangs lower it's possible for the tire to hit it if either: the tire is really wide, exhaust can is pushed inward, and/or subframe is tweaked. On mine when I bottom out its normal for the tire to scuff the side of the muffler can... but then again I drop and abuse it off-road so I'm sure things are tweaked (subframe, exhaust, etc..)

Do you have lowering links? What was your race sag set to? It's bottoming out while you’re riding, correct? On the street, fire trails, single track, what...? Like others have mentioned, I'd start with checking the nitrogen. You'll need a zero-loss chuck to properly fill it and about 150-175 psi.

i set it at 85mm. I ride street during weekdays and hit up canyon rodes on the weekends. No i dont have lowering links and it bottoms out when i hit bumps

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Are you sure its bottoming…  it could be just that the rear-end is really stiff and jolting you on bumps.  Do you ride with someone that can see what the bike is doing as you ride?  What kind of bumps are you talking about and at what speeds to you hit them?

 

I would start with the nitrogen charge and then look at where the clickers are set on the shock.  Write down where they are set now and start making adjustments one at a time.  To get a feel for what the adjustments do, start with say the rebound adjustment.  Turn it IN all the way and ride, note what it feels like.  Now adjust it OUT all the way, again note the feel.  Now pick a happy medium between those two settings (for the time being).  Remember that changes to rebound also affect low-speed compression, i.e. the more rebound = more LS compression and less rebound = less LS compression (only true for the rebound adjustment).  Rebound will affect how the bike reacts after a bump and settling into a corner.

 

Repeat with the other settings, LS compression and HS compression.  LS compression with affect pitching of the bike under acceleration and braking, attitude when cornering and harshness over bumps.  HS compression is responsible for large shaft displacements, i.e. when bottoming from a bump, g-out or landing.

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Are you sure its bottoming… it could be just that the rear-end is really stiff and jolting you on bumps. Do you ride with someone that can see what the bike is doing as you ride? What kind of bumps are you talking about and at what speeds to you hit them?

I would start with the nitrogen charge and then look at where the clickers are set on the shock. Write down where they are set now and start making adjustments one at a time. To get a feel for what the adjustments do, start with say the rebound adjustment. Turn it IN all the way and ride, note what it feels like. Now adjust it OUT all the way, again note the feel. Now pick a happy medium between those two settings (for the time being). Remember that changes to rebound also affect low-speed compression, i.e. the more rebound = more LS compression and less rebound = less LS compression (only true for the rebound adjustment). Rebound will affect how the bike reacts after a bump and settling into a corner.

Repeat with the other settings, LS compression and HS compression. LS compression with affect pitching of the bike under acceleration and braking, attitude when cornering and harshness over bumps. HS compression is responsible for large shaft displacements, i.e. when bottoming from a bump, g-out or landing.

It scuffs my exahust pretty good. I dont know if tbats bottoming out. But i have done the clicker settings and have it where im most comfortable. I had ut max sruff for a couple days and that sucked. I could feel every bump in the rpad so i turned it down two clicks and it seems fine. Still bomttoming out though.

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