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Little Help (Carb Removal & Jetting)

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I have a 2013 and just ordered the JD kit, MRD and extended fuel screw from the TT store.

 

I plan to put it all on and do the 3X3 mod at the same time.

 

I wanted all the videos and read all the posts and think I got everything covered but have a few questions before I start the install.

 

1. Do I really need to pull the fuel tank and remove the frame bolt and slide the frame back to get the carb out?

 

2. Will the JD kit have the proper jetting for Minnesota? I also keep seeing people moving the clip around and changing jets. Can someone give me the proper configuration so I don’t have to keep removing the card and monkeying with it?

 

3. Is there any advice or tricks?

 

Thanks

Edited by rraiderr

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You will need to remove the fuel tank because you need to get at your throttle cables.  I've never really needed to remove the frame bolt.  Sure it would make it 1% easier but it's not necessary.

 

You're pretty close to sea level (700 ft or so) so I think the kit should be fine.  What jets and needle are you going to be running?

 

Put some oil on your carb boot, airbox chamber and on the carb ports so it will slide in easier.  Use a few flat bladed screwdrivers to help them in.  Put the carb into the airbox side first, then the engine side second.  Leave the pipe clamps off until you are fully done.  Keep the manifold boot attached to the carb as you put it into the airbox side.

Edited by iggy320

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removing the tank and sub frame bolts wont be a big deal and it will give just enough to help get that puppy out of there ..  little trick i used is spritz you alittle wd40 around the rubber when you go to wedge it back in .. but the tank/subframe bolt thing is chicken feed compared to the joy you will be experiencing trying to get the carb and cables in and out so dont sweat that .. and the jetting is a no-brainer to, the kit will give you tips on what setup to use .. if someone from your area chimes in they may have a suggestion to change something minor like a clip position, but for the most part the kit instructions are pretty clear ..

Edited by cowpie

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You're pretty close to sea level (700 ft or so) so I think the kit should be fine.  What jets and needle are you going to be running?

 

 

I have no idea, this is my first attempt at workling on the DRZ carb. All my bike a FI. I have a bad feeling.

removing the tank and sub frame bolts wont be a big deal and it will give just enough to help get that puppy out of there ..  little trick i used is spritz you alittle wd40 around the rubber when you go to wedge it back in .. but the tank/subframe bolt thing is chicken feed compared to the joy you will be experiencing trying to get the carb and cables in and out so dont sweat that .. and the jetting is a no-brainer to, the kit will give you tips on what setup to use .. if someone from your area chimes in they may have a suggestion to change something minor like a clip position, but for the most part the kit instructions are pretty clear ..

Thanks

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I have a 2013 and just ordered the JD kit, MRD and extended fuel screw from the TT store.

 

I plan to put it all on and do the 3X3 mod at the same time.

 

I wanted all the videos and read all the posts and think I got everything covered but have a few questions before I start the install.

 

1. Do I really need to pull the fuel tank and remove the frame bolt and slide the frame back to get the carb out?

 

2. Will the JD kit have the proper jetting for Minnesota? I also keep seeing people moving the clip around and changing jets. Can someone give me the proper configuration so I don’t have to keep removing the card and monkeying with it?

 

3. Is there any advice or tricks?

 

Thanks

 

1: Yes you will need to remove your fuel tank, it is super easy to do. Disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line from your petcock, remove your seat, remove the two bolts holding the fuel tank on that were under the seat, remove the lower radiator shroud bolts, then pull the tank off with the shrouds still on it. This is the quickest and easiest way I have found to do it. I then set the tank on a saw horse somewhere out of the way.

 

You do not have to remove the subframe bolt to remove the carb but it will make it easier.

 

2: For jetting I am going to assume you are below 3,000ft ASL, installed the TT extended fuel screw, and are running the MRD open because you didn't say anything about ordering the quiet insert.

 

Main jet: 160

Needle: Blue on clip 4

Pilot jet: 22.5 (stock)

Fuel screw: set to 2.75 turns out then fine tune using this procedure http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting/

 

3. If it was me I would remove the stock exhaust first, then work on removing, rejetting, and refitting the carb, and then put on the MRD. Before removing the carb remove the top subframe bolt and loosen the bottom 2 subframe bolts (no need to remove them). This will allow the subframe to pivot much more than it could with the exhaust secured to it, and make removing/installing the carb a lot easier. Just remember after you get the carb back in there to put the top subframe bolt back in and then secure the carb boots with the clamps.

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It takes some wiggle to the carb out. Pretty easy job. It took me 2.5 hours to do the 3x3 mod and re-jet. Super easy. The second time took me 45 start to finish to remove and re-install the carb.

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1: Yes you will need to remove your fuel tank, it is super easy to do. Disconnect the fuel line and vacuum line from your petcock, remove your seat, remove the two bolts holding the fuel tank on that were under the seat, remove the lower radiator shroud bolts, then pull the tank off with the shrouds still on it. This is the quickest and easiest way I have found to do it. I then set the tank on a saw horse somewhere out of the way.

 

You do not have to remove the subframe bolt to remove the carb but it will make it easier.

 

2: For jetting I am going to assume you are below 3,000ft ASL, installed the TT extended fuel screw, and are running the MRD open because you didn't say anything about ordering the quiet insert.

 

Main jet: 160

Needle: Blue on clip 4

Pilot jet: 22.5 (stock)

Fuel screw: set to 2.75 turns out then fine tune using this procedure http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/271735-how-to-confirm-your-pilot-circuit-setting/

 

3. If it was me I would remove the stock exhaust first, then work on removing, rejetting, and refitting the carb, and then put on the MRD. Before removing the carb remove the top subframe bolt and loosen the bottom 2 subframe bolts (no need to remove them). This will allow the subframe to pivot much more than it could with the exhaust secured to it, and make removing/installing the carb a lot easier. Just remember after you get the carb back in there to put the top subframe bolt back in and then secure the carb boots with the clamps.

Awesome, thanks very much.

It takes some wiggle to the carb out. Pretty easy job. It took me 2.5 hours to do the 3x3 mod and re-jet. Super easy. The second time took me 45 start to finish to remove and re-install the carb.

I am kind of planning on a rough go the first time.

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Won't the pilot jet of 22.5 be too lean for an open mrd?  I'd say switch to at least a 25 pj or maybe 27.5 honestly.

 

I went to a 27.5 when I had my rs-2 and BSR36.  Ran great, however I was using the stock needle IIRC.

Edited by iggy320

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Won't the pilot jet of 22.5 be too lean for an open mrd?  I'd say switch to at least a 25 pj or maybe 27.5 honestly.

 

I went to a 27.5 when I had my rs-2 and BSR36.  Ran great, however I was using the stock needle IIRC.

 

Usually not.....The extended fuel screw has a richer profile , so normally works fine with the stock 22.5 pilot jet...

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