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Chain Fails During Ride

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I have a 2004 KTM 450 EXC.

 

The other day on a new trail we came across some thick brush (probably a deer trail). It was barely big enough for us to ride through. After crawling through in first gear we went down a small hill and I noticed I had no power and my back tire was locking up. The master link on my chain had come off and my chain was jamming in my back tire.

 

 

I might want to keep this old chain as a backup and just buy a new master link for it and buy a new chain. I have a few questions:

 

 

Will I need to buy new sprockets? What is the stock chain on a KTM 450 EXC (2004)? I counted the links and it has 112ish. Should I upgrade the chain? Has this ever happened to you? What do you think caused it?

 

 

 

Was really frustrating when it happened. I had to ride on the back of my buddies bike for an hour and find a spare chain and make it work. Took several hours to get it off the trail and I don't want it to happen again (I should carry a spare master link I know).

Edited by brantly04

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you'll have to watch the clip on the joining link. They wear on the rear chain guide. A rivet link will eliminate the risk of it happening again. 

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Some chains are available with rivet links and some are not, depends on the chain you have. Most good chains come with rivet links.  A rivet link is the best way to go, but you'll need a chain tool to install it properly.  Or take it to the local bike shop and pay them $5 to rivet the link for you. 

 

It's always a good idea to replace chains and sprockets as a set.  As the chain wears, the pins connecting the links and the holes they go through wear causing the links to become farther apart, this is why the chain gets longer.  Now the links don't fit the sprockets properly because the rollers are spaced out too much and this causes the teeth to wear much faster until they match up with the spaced out links.  So if you put an old chain on new sprockets it's going to wear them out much faster than a new chain would.  If you put a new chain on old sprockets it's a similar deal; the teeth are all spaced out and the chain doesn't fit properly, causing the chain to wear faster than normal.  If you get a really good chain, it will wear slower so both your chain and your sprockets will last longer.

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make sure when you put a clip type master link on, you put it on the right way...with the closed end facing "forward" (i.e., in the direction of chain travel). if you put it on backwards and it catches on something it can get pushed off. (if it is on with the closed end forward, it will just be pushed on more instead of pushed off.)

 

i have never had a problem with clip style masters.

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#1 stock chain guide on the back can get out of shape and it's also a tight squeeze through it in the 1st place. Make sure it's straight and not worn so bad the chain rides in a trench. Replace if needed.

 

#2 Make sure clip is on in the correct orientation. If the chain rubs on something, it should force the clip on tighter not try to pop it off. Or, use a rivet style link.

 

#3 Make sure your rear wheel is aligned straight and the adjusters are not a little off making the back wheel a little crooked.

 

#4 Make sure you have enough slack in the chain. Best way is to remove the rear shock and lift the swingarm until the chain is at the tightest point of the arc. Then make sure you have some slack at that point. The chain will look extremely loose but that's where it needs to be. You really only have to do that once and then you can take a slack measurment to go by from then on out.

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You've gotten some good advice here. When I'm riding I always carry bailing wire, duct tape, patch kit, tire iron, large zip ties, and small vise grips, at a minimum. You can fix a lot of things with those essentials.

 

.

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