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2000 300 exc extreme kick back

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i just recently did a full rebuild on my 300, after a few hours of riding i started to get VERY hard kick back, i took the whole engine back apart and found nothing out of the ordinary, any suggestions are greatly appreciated. 

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Does it run right?  Did you take the flywheel off and makes sure the key is not sheared or that the stator has not turned a little?

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The stator is tight the timing marks are on, and the key way is not broken, the bike will not start, the kickback is very violent and I'm not sure why

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I have set the backing plate to both timing marks as well as the middle, I recently upgraded my stator to a 110 from the stock 40 I believe it is, would this effect anything?

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Also does anyone know the proper timing procedure for a 2000 300? I have a dial indicator.

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Set the piston at TDC and see where the firing point is.. According to the manual for my 06 300 the firing point is 1.9 mm BTC.  Look in your manual.  According to my shop manual there is a mark on the stator and one on the housing.  As you probly know all that is required is for the marks to line up and then tighten the 3 screws on the stator.. The woodruff key should then align the rotor to the correct position if all else is correct  on the crank.

 

Did you dis-assemble the crank when you had it apart?

 

DOH!  Just saw this is a 2000.  Let me check an earlier manual and get back to you.  Check the procedure in this manual..  http://kristofsx.com/KTM/KTM_Manual_engine_250_380_1999_2003_english.pdf

Edited by zilla

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The firing rate is 2.0mm or 17 degrees btdc...I did not have the crank apart when I took it out. I set the piston to 2.0mm and no matter where I set the backing plate on the stator the pickup doesn't seem like it is in the right place....the stator plate is fully retarded and that's the closest place to where I think it should be. The bike will start it runs rough and as I idle up it sputters and it will backfire and then it just loses all power and dies....do you think my cdi box could be bad? Not advancing or retarding when it should be? Any suggestions are appreciated thank you

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I have the manuel for it as well and It still isn't lining up right and I can't figure it out

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I know that I set the firing point to the right place....do you have any other suggestions as to why it's running the way it is? Very rough idle and rpms jump when applying throttle, backfire occurs, and eventually engine dies out if you give it to much throttle. Carb is spotless, new bearings seals top and bottom end. New reeds, they are installed correctly to. Any way to test the cdi? Coil? Is there some kind of resistance test I can do for that? Any suggestions are great I have tried damn near everything at this point

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Just a SWAG but is the piston in backwards?  If it were me I'd pull the flywheel off and start over.  Carefully inspect the flywheel and key way in the flywheel..  Are there two marks on the case?  Study the link I provided as it has detailed timing instructions. as well as ignition tests

Edited by zilla

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theres no point trying to time it like some people have suggested. the keyway keeps the flywheel/stator/piston in correct sequence.

 

does your stator have a adjustable airgap ? have a look at that and be sure its all correct.   if thats good then you could ohm the stator but still i think its best to borrow a known good unit from someone to try. also you may want to borrow a known good cdi box to try. some flywheels have plastic on the backside which deteriorates over time. i doubt this is your problem but something to check. try these things and you should get it figured out. honestly im thinking your cdi box is taking a shit

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Did you get this issue resolved?  If so, what was the issue?  I am having the same problem with my 2000 200exc.  It kicked back so violently this evening it broke the kick start gear.

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I think that the CDI works this way.  The timing mark is actually where the spark is fully advanced. At idle, the CDI gets the signal from the pulser and DELAYS the spark based on RPM so that the spark plug is ignited at the correct time.  As the engine RPM's increase, the CDI DELAYS the spark LESS so that it appears that the spark is advancing,  Think about it.  If the pulser were signalling the CDI to ignite the plug at 0 degrees BTDC at idle, how could the CDI ignite the spark plug 30 degrees BTDC when RPM's increase.....it doesn't even get the signal until 0 degrees BTDC.  So if the CDI goes bad, it might not be able to delay the spark to get the correct timing and it could default to "full spark advance" (no delay).  This kind of aligns with what you're seeing, you've retarded the timing as much as you can but the timing still appears to be too far advanced.  This would give you the popping and violent kickback.  Set the ignition to baseline and try a known good CDI.

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I think that the CDI works this way.  The timing mark is actually where the spark is fully advanced. At idle, the CDI gets the signal from the pulser and DELAYS the spark based on RPM so that the spark plug is ignited at the correct time.  As the engine RPM's increase, the CDI DELAYS the spark LESS so that it appears that the spark is advancing,  Think about it.  If the pulser were signalling the CDI to ignite the plug at 0 degrees BTDC at idle, how could the CDI ignite the spark plug 30 degrees BTDC when RPM's increase.....it doesn't even get the signal until 0 degrees BTDC.  So if the CDI goes bad, it might not be able to delay the spark to get the correct timing and it could default to "full spark advance" (no delay).  This kind of aligns with what you're seeing, you've retarded the timing as much as you can but the timing still appears to be too far advanced.  This would give you the popping and violent kickback.  Set the ignition to baseline and try a known good CDI.

My problem is finding a known CDI at this point.  I have a few days to track one down since I've got to pull the side cover and find out what gear is broken in the kick start mechanism.

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