Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Diagnosis Diary of a Non Starting TE410 2000

Recommended Posts

I am not in any way mech trained so if my diagnosis or info is wrong please jump in and let me know if anythings shady. A lot of this diary will probably be obvious to most people but this is how I worked on these problems hopefully it can help someone starting out in the future. -


About four days ago the bike was running in good order, I was tearing around a field practicing various stuff, wheelies, right handers etc and then the bike stalled. Kicking it over did nothing, but the symptoms of a flooded engine were evident i thought so I left it overnight to dry.

Returned to it the following day with a fresh spark plug i'd been meaning to put in for a couple of weeks. Kicked it, nothing. New spark plug, nothing. So I decided to remove the plastics to see what was what and if anything was evident.


I found some hoses all split like this ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399972268.743402.jpg

I assumed these were split because they had came away from some connection, there was three that I could see on the right side of the bike and one I knew hung down next to the cam chain tensioner (CCT). Here is the three I seen on the right of the bike that gave me concern, the 4th (in blue next to the CCT) I knew was an overflow of some kind. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399972653.188003.jpg

They all seemed to be coming from the same component. After much posting and investigating I found this part to be the carburettor and these four hoses to be vent and overflow hoses. Here is a picture of this component ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399972931.520210.jpg


The hoses should be routed appropriately for the bike not to stall in water i've found out. I was nowhere near water, so that can be ruled out. The hoses are split like that to stop clogging, which makes sense. I also found on various posts guys saying they add a T or a Y junction to each vent and run one high and one low on the bike which enables deep water crossing without stalling the bike. I'm not sure the specs on this so I cant advise.

So after working out all on the outside of the carb is how it should be and checked for clogged overflows and vents I looked into the operation of the carb and what the symptoms of a faulty one would be. I was led to thinking that my bike would be being starved if the jets within the carb bowl were blocked. Here is the bowl on my carb ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399973680.055864.jpg

The bowl is the bottom of the carb which has a simple float mechanism inside that fills with fuel when its low and stops when its floating, there can be build up residue within the bowl that can clog the primary and idle jets connected to it. These are easily removed and cleaned with carb cleaner and a pin or wire. This would be the most major mechanical operation I would have ever done on a bike so I left it to ponder for a day.


The next day I had received a response for help from the Cafe Husky community, the response said that it sounded electrical and not a carburettor problem at all. I was advised to take the spark plug lead off the bike plug, place another spark plug on it which i did. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399973940.191809.jpg

He advised me to wind the motor by hand and look for a blue spark on the end of the lead, there should be one, if not then the problem was either a faulty kill switch or a problem with the stator.


I checked the kill switch, this had never caused problems and i opened it up to check for loose wires, sheared plastic and moisture it is on the handlebars behind the indicators here ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399974291.160534.jpg everything seemed in order, I didnt believe this to be the problem.


Ok so whats a stator? I thought. Better check that up. Turns out its a spool of copper with magnets phased around it that cause the electricity needed on my bike. I actually had one in a box of junk the guy gave me when I bought the bike it looks like this ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399974904.227980.jpg

This is obviously an old one that has been replaced on the bike, why it was kept i'm not sure, but it leads me to believe in the time the previous owner had the bike it was replaced. Either way time to get a look at the one on the bike. Firstly i looked at my manual about how this was done, also checked out an online video

which explains that the stator magnets on these bikes were prone to coming loose. A fact i had read countless times and wondered when it would happen to mine...

So to check the situation with the stator first you must remove this ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399975238.828463.jpg

This cover is located on the right side of the bike, three long allan screws hold it in place over a gasket. Once removed the next layer looks like this ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399975348.720128.jpg

This is the fly wheel cover I believe, it covers the stator which I can see through the holes in it, the stator looks shiny and very new in comparison to the other one from what I can see.


Now the guy in the YouTube vid says that there should be no rotation of this cover at all, well mine rotated no problem and i can actually see the magnets are loose within the housing from this picture ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399975802.254808.jpg

If you look just behind the housing you can see the magnets have become loose and i can actually touch and move them without having removed the flywheel cover. This is where the diagnosis finishes I believe.


So I don't have a flywheel puller yet but one is on its way through the power of eBay, I will update this diary as I go and possibly go off topic too, for example I will be replacing my front master cylinder next.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1399974157.981380.jpg

Edited by crispypancakes

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well after being told that i need to ground the plug before i will see a spark (absolute schoolboy mistake) i retried the sparkplug while being ground to the frame, guess what, it sparked, so now i may be back to the carburettor stage.

I will need to do more research on this to find out if i would get any spark with loose magnets, can this still be the problem? Because since opening the flywheel cover and attempting to move it, it does give some play but doesnt move freely.

Bloody Husky!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday evening I received a suggestion that my Woodruff key may have sheared, this would still result in a spark being produced although no turnover due to mismatched timing.

I took the opportunity to track down a woodruff key (part no 4 below) from Halvards here in Sweden < http://www.husqvarnamc.se/claes.html > and they have it in stock.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1400078387.183837.jpg

So now I will await my flywheel puller arriving to remove the cover and see if there is a problem with the stator, the magnets or the woodruff key.

Furthermore I've noticed some 'moany' squeaks coming from the flywheel when its rotated, can this be a symptom of something?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So flywheel puller arrived yesterday and also did a Woodruff Key. I opened my crank case to find the Woodruff key in perfect nick and the magnet alignment all over the shop.

So it was magnet realigning job i had to do.

The info on this is sparse and i found myself asking questions all over the place trying to sort the info out. Heres how i done it, it worked and im glad to say my Husky is alive again.

So i took my magnet strip out, cleaned and compressed aired it to remove the dust n shit.

Then attempted to find the TDC of my cylinder, for this i removed the spark plug and slotted a long cable tie in the hole. Turned the engine over by hand with the kick, with no magnets and flywheel on there there is no resistance. When the cylinder is at the top, the cabletie poked out the most. TDC.

This showed the woodruff key to align more or less to 12 oclock, this you can use as the centre. I then d/l this image from the website in the picture... ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1400784412.772855.jpg

Using the flywheel case to ascertain the zero degrees to align with the woodruff key slot I then marked 10 degrees from that position before the zero degrees (as you look inside the wheel, at the magnets) this gives you an average of the 1 oclock position from the outside of the flywheel case as it would sit on the engine. I used this picture to ascertain the positioning relative to the key slot...ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1400784669.306246.jpg

This pic shows the primary magnet in red (the magnet with the deepest centre hole) and the woodruff key slot at zero degrees in blue. This image was taken from an advert selling a spanking new flywheel assembly. It was a good reference.

Fine tuning can be done with the stator adjustor allan screws. I found i had to tune mine as it fired up but shortly died.

I hope this can help someone else as i found many threads saying this was a problem on these bikes but only one other thread attempting to help explain magnet alignment.

Anyhow, my bike is running ace and next is to bleed the brakes.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites


 well done for such a good job of describing the process,


 the magnet belt repair has been covered on here several times over the years,

 BUT has been "lost" in the IP changes,

 the SEARCH is now poor unfortunately,



 enjoy your single-cam husky ..!! 



charlie - my 410 is "resting"

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you. It can be quite frustrating looking through posts where guys start a thread and mean well but never post clear or definite solutions to the problem.

I'm enjoying learning about my bike and the knowledge that my input got it running again is a pretty cool feeling.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this