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Valve adjustment

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Can anyone explain how to do valve adjustments on an 83 xl250r? How many miles can it run before it needs done? Bike runs good now but was sitting for 25 years.... Does it even need done?

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Only way to really know if it needs one, is to pop the caps and check.  Not very difficult, and certainly at least worth a look ( check ) if it's been sitting ( and not checked ) for that long. 

 

As for how long between checks / adjustments, dunno, but I'd say every couple years of medium riding.  Maybe every year if you ride kind of a lot.  I'm pretty sure the manual would say how often, but I'd say every 5000 miles or so would be a good guess.  It's so easy and quick to check, for that piece of mind that you're not going to burn a valve or run crappy.

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Hey thanks for the help guys, nows here's another question, I cannot get the aluminum covers off the crankshaft and timing hole (cover 1 and 2 in the diagram) Are they locktighted in? Are they reverse threaded?

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No, they are not reverse thread and should not be loc tited unless some idiot PO did so.

Use some heat. If you bugger up the wrench holes, making them unusable, set a punch at the outside diameter edge of the caps and tap them in a CCW direction to break them loose.

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The view port caps have o-rings, designed to seal the cap in place, not by tightening. If the orings get old or heated, they can dry in place, making removal harder. Get new o-rings, so they seal the caps in place, not the threads. I suspect the old orings are shot.

How to adjust the valves is written here about 20 times. Make sure you turn the crank in the correct direction and the valve rockers can be wiggled by hand. Then you are on the right stroke. If they are tight, rotate 360 degrees.

You'll find it easier if you loosen the spark plug first. Before that, clean out the dirt around the spark plug.

The valve tappet caps are big, but thin aluminum that cracks if tightened too hard. Again, compression of the oring creates the friction to hold them on.

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