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Best mod for stock 2014 drz 400s

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aluminum kickstand and a nice cushy seat

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Kain , the 3x3 mod and a rejet would be the first thing you should do . Are you going to use it for the dirt or dual purpose ? If it is the dirt , then consider revalving the suspension and changing the tyres , it will handle a hell of a lot better . If you decide to go the way most of us have , then eventually you will want an exhaust ( MRD/SSW of course ) change the mikuni carb for either another the cheaper CV carb from keihin ( 40mm ) or a fltslide keihin 39mm FCR or FCR/MX . Then you might consider some cams , either some cheaper secondhand E cams or the hotcams . Then there is the big bore option 434cc from cylinder works , with the single layer base gasket , and now you have a bike with the potential of having 50 horsepower . Then if you were so inclined you could stroke it to 462 with the hotrods crank and have over 60 hp . It is just a matter of money really . But the one thing about all of this is it wont change the reliabilty of the bike , if done correctly and it is well serviced , good luck and have fun , greg :thumbsup:  

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+1 on this.

 

Kain , the 3x3 mod and a rejet would be the first thing you should do .

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Everyone's gonna say to do power mods, but i disagree.  PIvot pegz would be my first mod if i were to do it over. They made the biggest difference for riding comfort and especially bike control when off road. The stock pegs are absolute garbage and are way too small. 

Next i would say handguards, skid plate, and case covers to keep your brand new bike as protected as possible in the likely event of a drop on the trails. After researching for a while i decided on cycra pro bend's, Hyde racing skid plate, and the thumpertalk case covers

Also, i bent my stock bars when i fell in the mud one time, the video's in the media thread if you're curious. They bent extremely easily and i upgraded to Tusk fat bars. They're $50 bucks and the clamps are 30, so it was cheap and relatively easy. I reused stock grips. I upgraded my levers to Zeta 3 finger shorty folding levers simply for comfort. They didn't really make a gigantic difference but i can ride much more comfortable by using 2 fingers instead of all 4.

 

Then i'd get a comfy seat. the stock seat was too tall for me in trails so i swapped to the gel seat which is great height but stiffer than a cement board. I ordered a seat concepts seat and have heard amazing things but i'll find out next week when it gets delivered.

I haven't done the 3x3, rejetted or done anything besides add on a slip on FMF q4 for weight loss and nice braap's. I never find myself needing more power in any riding i do. Single track, fast powerlines, sand pits, etc. With an SM i'd want more power but not for a woods bike that can ride on the street; it does great stock. 

 

Also i cannot emphasize enough how horrible the stock tires are for hard trail riding. They do good light duty but they really aren't suited for aggressive trails. However the trails wings were amazingly smooth and quiet compared to my knobbies on the street, but it's worth the trade off in my case.

Edited by k4f5x0r
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Case protectors should be first. All bikes tip over at some point. The case protectors are cheap and can save you from punching a hole in the case. Loctite fixes and other preventative maintenance tasks next. Than reward yourself with the 3x3 mod.

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If I were to buy a new S, I would do the Kickstand switch elimination first (you'll see why the first time you get airborne) and the 'Free Power Mod, so you don't get stuck with a low battery 45 miles form the trailhead. These 2 mods together will cost you $0.75.

THEN I'd do the 3x3 mod. That will set you back about $100 >> with the extended idler screw. <--- Don't skip that part.

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I just bought one a couple weeks ago (first bike and loving it) so I'll throw in my two cents.

 

Get case covers, I almost dropped mine on the way to work the other morning and had a little heart attack. With them on its much less stressful.

 

Pull the rubber inserts out of the foot pegs, sure its a little more vibration but it helped me feel a lot more planted and confident on the bike.

 

And then I bought new handgrips because I wasnt a big fan of the stockers. These little changes let me have more fun riding and less time worrying.

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The "How to's" are listed in the FAQ section to guide you through most of the following....http://www.thumperta...s-common-maint/

Here is a list of things to do for your new ride.....

Locktite fix the counter shaft sprocket, counter balancer nut, primary nut, stator screws, flywheel/starter gear fasteners.

Remove the rear suspension and swing arm, clean and grease the bearings.

Remove the steering stem , clean and grease bearings.

Do the free power mod...

Install a Manual cam chain tensioner...https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/Popular/Suzuki-DR-Z-400-c2447/

Install Case Savers and bash plate

JD Jet kit for the stock BSR36 carb and the 3x3 air box mod...and install open pipe

Suzuki DRZ400 3X3 mod

 

Install SS brake lines front and rear.

Re Spring and valve suspension to suit your riding.

When you can afford it, go for 94mm Big Bore kit ,4mm stroker crank , big valves, RHC stage 2 valve spring kit , Head Flowing, RHC 187 cams, FCRMX41mm Conversion kit. . :)

Edited by Craigo 485sm
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Yeah, removing the rubber things on the pegs will give you at least a 4hp increase. Fact.

 

BootSoles.jpg

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The seat was the first thing I did on my 2013.

 

All that is left on my list is suspension which will take place this winter.

 

The only mistake  made was getting the JD jet kit, I should have skipped it and just went FCR39.

 

The FRC is on its way, I am hoping I can sell the JD jet kit and recoup some money.

 

Like they said above, foot pegs, tires, brake lines, 3x3, JD/FCR, MRD full system.

 

I also did bars and clamps.

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Remove snorkle, Rejet, MRD Procomp and Hotcams. Then ride it for years and years.

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if you only do one mod,  3x3 and a JD jet kit.    Then i think you can find a thread on what size hole saw to use to uncork your stock exhaust.

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