XR200's are crappy and slow.

[WWalker]

That's a good lookin bike....and tricked out! I bet he loves it!

[KTM520EXC]

Beezer, 

 

Thanks, nice looking unit !!!

 

As far as the cam, was it an overall increase, or just mid range and top end increase ???

 

Thx !!!

 

Michael 

[beezer]

Actually it's a 10 foot bike.  Get any closer than 10 feet and you can see it's been ridden.  I wanted to do a father/son project instead of just spending 8K.

 

We ride on all rocks so nothing stays pretty around here.

 

I put the bike together last year with the Webcam and a stock exhaust.  It ran good but not great.   I made a less restrictive baffle which helped but I think the last piece to the puzzle was the XR's Only pipe.  The bike pulls right from the bottom.  It's a bit on the loud side but so are all our bikes.  One thing with the Webcam, you need to have the rockers hard faced or you'll trash them fast.

 

I wasted time and money putting in a cartridge emulator from Race Tech.  The front still sucked and the front brake was non-existent.

 

So over the very long winter I called in a few favors and had a buddy shorten some a 96 CR125 front end and I machined a new steering stem so it would all fit.  Now the bike steers well and has a real front brake.

 

If I could get a 1/4 inch longer rear shock with a heavier spring that bike would be a real weapon.  I could drop the forks down some and I think it would handle much better.

 

A Works Performance shock is 1000 bucks.  I was thinking about paying 1/2 and making Jr. work off the other 1/2.

[WWalker]

Holy smokes! $1000 for a shock?! I don't think I even have a total of $1000 invested in my little XR....and that includes the purchase price.

That new front end must be nice! Looks like good times out there with your son!

[KTM520EXC]

Beezer,

 

When you put the race tech emulators in, did you also put in the progressive front springs ???

 

I am totally in the minority on the front drum brakes on the XR, I actually like them, I like to think of them as anti-lock brakes.

 

I also prefer the drum brakes on the rear because I can feel them progressing through my boot which I can not feel with disc brakes. . 

 

I must admit I really do like the the front brakes on my 87's XR200R XR400 front end, nice and progressive, not bad for disc brakes. 

 

I believe OSA, Chuck and Swiss had mentioned that whenever you replace the cam, you "must" replace the rockers as well. 

 

Still waiting on Tom aka (Flyhud) to give us a report on his megacycle cam, so I can make a decison on a cam for my 87. 

 

It appears his megacycle cam is a bit more agressive than the 40 webcam you installed in your Son's XR. 

 

Michael

[VortecCPI]

A Works Performance shock is 1000 bucks.  I was thinking about paying 1/2 and making Jr. work off the other 1/2.

 

Try checking Hagon USA.  Great shocks at a great price.  We have a Hagon on one of our CRF230s and it is awesome.

[beezer]

I put the Progressive Springs in the front as well as the emulators.  We still needed to run 6 PSI in the front.

 

The forks are sitting on a shelf awaiting the dumpster.

 

We ride in lots of mud and water.  When the brakes get wet it seems to never dry out.  You usually have to take the front wheel off and sand everything.

 

The back drum brake is fine.

 

Hard facing the rockers is better than new, the surface is much harder.  Webcam can re-do used rockers.

 

I'll check out the Hagon shock.  1000 bucks for the Works Performance is a lot.

[Chuck.]

I used a 96-04 XR250R shock on my 01, it is a next gen 44mm integral reservoir shock compared to the 40mm remote reservoir XR200 shock. Damping is much better so while I used a stiffer XR250 spring on the remote reservoir 200 shock I'm now using a stock XR200 spring on the new shock (I weigh 185 w gear).  The shock clevis needs to be shortened  and the shock mount on the frame moved up. 

Edited June 24, 2014 by Chuck.

[teamrude]

the 40 web cam is pretty mild but very good trail cam. General increase in power everywhere. Cam is touchy subject because each rider is different. Some need overall power increase with no loss anywhere. Some need only power gain in certain areas. 40 cam is a bump everywhere with no dramatic change in nature. The 89a web grind is close on bottom but a little more mid and top. 214 web loses a little bottom with harder mid to top and really is about as big as you should go with 200cc or 10-1 compression. 214 is awesome in a 218 with or without 12-1. Serious fast woods cam. Usually suggest this cam for fast riders. The 172 lobe is for racing only in 200cc and 12-1 piston and works barely with 218 and 10-1 but very fast in 218 12-1. The 232/172 is only for full tilt built motors as the Megacycle #40 is pretty damn big also but smaller than 232/172 with wider lobe centers for a broader powerband.

If we get dyno hooked back up soon I have a 218 13+ I will run some cam tests(have 5 different and a couple custom) and dyno results. Then I will actually take to trails for real world testing. Most likely the #40 and 232/172 for GP type racing and 214 or 172 for woods. 214 for real tight or muddy as would be tractor in this motor even though I am running these harder than most do. Just my opinion. YES Hardweld if possible. New rockers with special oils seem to hold up if you are gentle on spring pressures.

[KTM520EXC]

TeamRude,

 

In your opinion what is the best cam for the stock engine with a XR's only header and a SuperTrapp 3M muffler ???

 

Right now I have the ignition timing fully advanced, which is a nice little boost. 

 

My only complaint about power is acceleration and it's inability to loft the front end. 

 

If you get caught in a situation where you are a gear high you either have to shift down a gear or two, or abuse the clutch to get it back in the meat of the power. 

 

Thanks !!!

 

Michael 

[teamrude]

PM'd you. With stock parts a #00 megacycle or 89a Web. If possible try some compression (12-1) as that seriously bumps bottom-midrange and responsiveness. Of course always the 218 stroker which in my mind is best bang for buck and ask anybody who has done it. feels like 40cc not 25cc gain. Instant bottom midrange and great tree/mud/hill weapon

[Chuck.]

PM'd you. With stock parts a #00 megacycle or 89a Web. If possible try some compression (12-1) as that seriously bumps bottom-midrange and responsiveness. Of course always the 218 stroker which in my mind is best bang for buck and ask anybody who has done it. feels like 40cc not 25cc gain. Instant bottom midrange and great tree/mud/hill weapon

 

You listed a bunch Web cams but I'm curious about how you compare and rate  the Powroll Torque and P714 cams to those, as well as the Megacycle 143-00, and 143-20 cams.

 

 

back to topic:  I have a CRF250X which I consider a very good bike and fun to ride, I really think I'm faster with less effort than my lightened XR218 with modified suspension. There are some tight technical trails that I ride on the 218 or my Trials bike that I won't ride on the X (well maybe after some mods).

Weight, wheelbase, seat height, and tractable power do make a difference when the going gets tough.

Edited July 3, 2014 by Chuck.

[IacobucciB]

Yeah, they're not fast, but they weren't built for that. My friend had an 86 that was beat to hell, burnt a quart of oil every ride, and rattled like a wind chime, but it was unkillable. We rode it till it finally dropped a valve, and since he had an 02 roller, we bored it to a 218, threw in a piston, new head, crank, and clutch, and now it's a ball on tight trails. It still rides like a couch because of the 25 year old suspension but is great for popping wheelies, trailblazing, and general gooning.

[teamrude]

714 is a Powroll special. They played with different lobes and lobe centerlines to get best overall power. The 714 was a race cam that pulled great in hot ATC. Works very well in lighter XR. Not for stock motor but moderate to hot build. The torker cam was a modified 00 cam. Persoanlly never tried #20 cam.

 

The Web cams I listed are their standard listings. There are modified versions and even dual pattern. Most of these are under private part numbers like the 714 is. I just made a dual pattern for myself as I built a stepped true reverse cone exhaust and wanted to remove some reversion at lower rpm's so mixed 2 lobes and played with centers to get overlap and valve events that work for me. This is on a 218 13-1 custom lightweight twin shocker that is under 200 lbs empty. Ride this very very hard in trails so only worried about power from 4-9000. Quite similar to 714 with tighter lobe centers and narrower powerband.

[chadzu]

Actually it's a 10 foot bike. Get any closer than 10 feet and you can see it's been ridden. I wanted to do a father/son project instead of just spending 8K.

We ride on all rocks so nothing stays pretty around here.

I put the bike together last year with the Webcam and a stock exhaust. It ran good but not great. I made a less restrictive baffle which helped but I think the last piece to the puzzle was the XR's Only pipe. The bike pulls right from the bottom. It's a bit on the loud side but so are all our bikes. One thing with the Webcam, you need to have the rockers hard faced or you'll trash them fast.

I wasted time and money putting in a cartridge emulator from Race Tech. The front still sucked and the front brake was non-existent.

So over the very long winter I called in a few favors and had a buddy shorten some a 96 CR125 front end and I machined a new steering stem so it would all fit. Now the bike steers well and has a real front brake.

If I could get a 1/4 inch longer rear shock with a heavier spring that bike would be a real weapon. I could drop the forks down some and I think it would handle much better.

A Works Performance shock is 1000 bucks. I was thinking about paying 1/2 and making Jr. work off the other 1/2.

The 1981 xr250 shock is .25" longer and bolts right in. I have one on a '82 200r and it raised the rear 2". The spring is a bit stiffer too.

[beezer]

I'll look for one on eBay but I wonder about the chances of finding a decent one.

 

The 86/91 XR200 shock was hard enough to find.

[Chuck.]

I'll look for one on eBay but I wonder about the chances of finding a decent one.

 

The 86/91 XR200 shock was hard enough to find.

84-85 XR200R/250R is the same size and model shock.  Variations are spring rates and maybe damping, but they also occur among the 86-91 shocks. My  experiences with these shocks are too far apart and my butt dyno memory isn't good enough for me to make a comparison.

[VortecCPI]

84-85 XR200R/250R is the same size and model shock.  Variations are spring rates and maybe damping, but they also occur among the 86-91 shocks. My  experiences with these shocks are too far apart and my butt dyno memory isn't good enough for me to make a comparison.

 

My 1984 Al Baker XR265 had a "stock" shock.  It was revalved for my body weight and riding style and had an Al Baker "Triple Rate" spring on it.  It was a GREAT shock and held up very well.  It only had four or five rebound settings but it was all that was needed.

[HomerDodd]

What an absolute idiotic and generalized statement to make on an XR forum. DR Small said it all, but I will add this: I bought an '85

XR200R with the "dreaded" (by some, not me) RFVC engine for $400. Running and complete, but neglected. I took about a month fixing her up, with new seat cover, coil, spark plug, cables, painted plastics and of course, repaired the noise left exhaust rocker and valve (noisy & damaged from prior oil starvation on the left side of the head). I drilled larger holes int the cam and the oil line banjo bolts for better oil flow. Ported the head slightly, installed a CRF230 muffler with three more holes drilled in the baffle, and a free flowing UniFilter, and removed the snorkel. Put in a new oil filter and installed Mobil1 10w40 4T. Runs clean and quiet, pulls strong. The left side of the head is now saturated with good oil flow. My son has an RM250 and pulls away from me only slightly. I have people ask me all the time what year the bike is and do I want to sell it ("dude, that is a cool and classic XR, still a great  bike") are the quotes I get. Next time do some homework before running your mouth.

 

Edited July 23, 2016 by HomerDodd

[WWalker]

What an absolute idiotic and generalized statement to make on an XR forum. DR Small said it all, but I will add this: I bought an '85

XR200R with the "dreaded" (by some, not me) RFVC engine for $400. Running and complete, but neglected. I took about a month fixing her up, with new seat cover, coil, spark plug, cables, painted plastics and of course, repaired the noise left exhaust rocker and valve (noisy & damaged from prior oil starvation on the left side of the head). I drilled larger holes int the cam and the oil line banjo bolts for better oil flow. Ported the head slightly, installed a CRF230 muffler with three more holes drilled in the baffle, and a free flowing UniFilter, and removed the snorkel. Put in a new oil filter and installed Mobil1 10w40 4T. Runs clean and quiet, pulls strong. The left side of the head is now saturated with good oil flow. My son has an RM250 and pulls away from me only slightly. I have people ask me all the time what year the bike is and do I want to sell it ("dude, that is a cool and classic XR, still a great bike") are the quotes I get. Next time do some homework before running your mouth.

If you are referring to me then perhaps you misunderstood my first post. I love my little XR! Read my post #1 again. It is well documented that I love this bike! Here's a thread from a few years ago:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/1031838-%22Am-I-crazy%3F-Part-2%22%2E%2E%2E-back-to-work-on-the-%2702-XR200%2E

And here's a vid from riding a few months ago:

https://youtu.be/5Zt-MDw86gM

And yet another vid from a couple weeks ago:

https://youtu.be/sYjzRABi9Sg