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Does a nickasil coated cylinder have to have crosshatching or not? Not used to the nick coating and helping a buddy. Any advice appreciated.

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Does a nickasil coated cylinder have to have crosshatching or not? Not used to the nick coating and helping a buddy. Any advice appreciated.

Yes

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You can hone it, never said he couldn't... not "supposed" to hone nikasil though because of how thin it is and tolerances are tight, but that will create the cross hatch. Typically once the cross hatch is gone, the cylinder is worn to the point that it probably needs to be replated. Often enough a scotch brite pad will typically restore the cross hatch by removing the material that has filled it in unless it is extremely worn.

 

He just asked if it had to have cross hatching which it does. If it doesn't you will never get proper ring seal/seat. However you want to word it.

Edited by BDubb106

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You can hone it, never said he couldn't... not "supposed" to hone nickasil though because of how thin it is and tolerances are tight, but that will create the cross hatch. Typically once the cross hatch is gone, the cylinder is worn to the point that it probably needs to be replated. Often enough a scotch brite pad will typically restore the cross hatch by removing the material that has filled it in unless it is extremely worn.

He just asked if it had to have cross hatching which it does. If it doesn't you will never get proper ring seal/seat. However you want to word it.

Okay my bad. I heard somewhere that you couldn't hone nikasil because of how hard it is that it breaks prices of the hone off and that it was porous enough that the small chunks ( prolly molecular) got stuck, then came loose after running. What I've heard.

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Okay my bad. I heard somewhere that you couldn't hone nikasil because of how hard it is that it breaks prices of the hone off and that it was porous enough that the small chunks ( prolly molecular) got stuck, then came loose after running. What I've heard.

No worries bud! 

 

Most of the hones out now are pretty darn hard. The plating will probably break before the hone was destroyed. The cylinder needs to be washed thoroughly after it is honed anyways.

 

Anyway... the reason that most builders advise against honing nikasil is because it is typically only between .003-005" thickness. An OEM cylinder is typically .002" thick. You can imagine how easily it could be messed up with a diamond hone by someone that does not 100% know how to do it. The reason it is so thin is to keep heat transfer within an acceptable range.

Edited by BDubb106

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No worries bud!

Most of the hones out now are pretty darn hard. The plating will probably break before the hone was destroyed. The cylinder needs to be washed thoroughly after it is honed anyways.

Anyway... the reason that most builders advise against honing nikasil is because it is typically only between .003-005" thickness. An OEM cylinder is typically .002" thick. You can imagine how easily it could be messed up with a diamond hone by someone that does not 100% know how to do it. The reason it is so thin is to keep heat transfer within an acceptable range.

You said diamond hone. You can't do it with just ant hone right? Has to be diamond?

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You said diamond hone. You can't do it with just ant hone right? Has to be diamond?

You can... but I don't want to give bad advice so I'll stick to my guns. You should not hone a Nikasil plated cylinder.

 

I've never personally honed a plated cylinder for the very reasons I listed above. I have honed plenty of sleeves though.

Edited by BDubb106

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You can... but I don't want to give bad advice so I'll stick to my guns. You should not hone a Nikasil plated cylinder.

I've never personally honed a plated cylinder for the very reasons I listed above. I have honed plenty of sleeves though.

OK. That's what I thought. Thanks.

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