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2012 kxf250 front brake

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Hi there can anyone help me with my front brake. I can pull it all the way to the bars while I'm riding and it barley works . I've tried bleeding new fluid new pads !! Is there anything else I can do ?

Cheers in advance

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Are you sure you bled it properly? Does your lever adjust, maybe its backed out?

 

If all is good on those two things I would look at a MC rebuild kit and a SS braided line.....

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Yeah it was bled correctly I'll go and check lever now

I've heard of people using a crf450 master cylinder ? Has anyone done it ?

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Yeah it was bled correctly I'll go and check lever now

I've heard of people using a crf450 master cylinder ? Has anyone done it ?

 

Yes, its a popular mod but you should really diagnose the problem first as it can happen with the Honda unit too.....The whole idea with the Honda MC is that it increases brake pressure and firmness....

 

Did you scuff the rotor when you replaced the pads? Any damage to the brake line? When you pull the lever in you could have a weak spot in the brake line that expands when lever pressure is applied....

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Ill look into the brake line would there be and visible bulge ?

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Just had a look and when you pull lever the caliper sort of makes a creeking sound is that anything ?

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Hi there can anyone help me with my front brake. I can pull it all the way to the bars while I'm riding and it barley works . I've tried bleeding new fluid new pads !! Is there anything else I can do ?

Cheers in advance

gotta bleed the banjo bolts they hold air

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I would say its not correctly bled yet, when you finish bleeding and you have pressure, cable tie the brake lever to the grip so the brake is applied and leave it overnight, it helps to get the last bubbles out    

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Hi Shawn I'll try re bleeding

 

If you get a clean plastic syringe and connect it to a line into the caliper bleeder valve you can reverse bleed them.  Works great.  Just take the MC cover and diaphragm off when you do it.  Shawn's idea is good, too.  Those tiny bubbles are a bitch to purge.  It could take a couple of consecutive days to bleed.

 

If all else fails, an MC rebuild is super easy to do.  You can get a kit from Rocky Mountain that includes everything you need, except circlip pliers.  Ultimately, with patience, that lever can feel as good as a brand new 2014 (which ours does) but it won't match a Brembo (KTM).  Never tried the Honda . . . but I heard it was better.  Right now our 11 feels very good with no much [Edit: no mush].  We have a SS braided line, too, which probably helps.  Keep us posted!

Edited by Dragon67

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Super I'll get a syringe tonight and give it a go tomorrow . I'm also going to install new pads do you guys rough the rotor up when installing new pads ?

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Super I'll get a syringe tonight and give it a go tomorrow . I'm also going to install new pads do you guys rough the rotor up when installing new pads ?

I have never done that, just make sure the rotor is clean with no oil or brake fluid on it  

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Super I'll get a syringe tonight and give it a go tomorrow . I'm also going to install new pads do you guys rough the rotor up when installing new pads ?

I do that to our bikes before every race. Just use scotch-brite and wrap it around and turn the wheel a couple full turns. So after doing pads wont hurt a thing

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Hi I installed new pads and bled the brake over and over again it's a lot better now but still some mushy feeling in the lever

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Hi I installed new pads and bled the brake over and over again it's a lot better now but still some mushy feeling in the lever

 

If you have an adjustment on the brake lever, turn it out completely, so the lever is as far out as possible.  Then pull it in as close to the grip as you can and zip tie the brake handle to the throttle grip.  Tap the caliper and line with a wrench, going from the caliper up to the MC.  If you have bubbles, they will go to the highest point, and you have a loop that goes higher than the mc.  Lower the loop below the MC and give it a few taps--you just want the bubbles (even very small ones) to go to the top.  Then go to bed. When you wake up, take that loop below the MC again, tap it a few times, cut the zip tie and bleed it again.  PITA?  Yup!  But, if you are patient, you will get that brake solid.  It will never be Brembo (KTM) solid, but it will be very effective solid.  You just have to be patient, and mind the fluid level in the MC as you bleed.  It takes longer to properly bleed a KXF than it does to bleed a car, or paint a house, or lots of other things, but with patience it can be done with satisfying results.  Also, when you are all done bleeding, only fill the MC to halfway up the site glass, then put the diaphragm in and seal it up.  Only use new fluid, too.  See if that works.

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