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Easiest way to adjust sag on 2013

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Just trying the figure out the easiest way to adjust the sag on the 2013s. Do you need to pull the subframe and all that? Or is there a quicker way?

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Best way is to spin the spring and the collar should move with it, just hope there's no grit/dirt in the shock threads that stop it spinning.

If you try keep the threads as clean as possible, and then spray a bit of WD40 or similar day before you want to adjust it, it should work.   Its the only way I could do it, its near impossible to get a screwdriver in there on my 2012. It can be done, but would take forever if you had to adjust to far, and you'll swear, curse, and hit yourself with the hammer, believe me I know haha.

 

Rich man option is buy a xtrig preload adjuster and then you can quickly adjust with a battery drill or t handle, its on my wish list.

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Everytime I hear someone mention using a screwdriver to loosen the lock collar i get mad all over again!  DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!  Use the correct tool or a brass punch.  Using a screwdriver chews it up and you risk damaging something else in the process.  Someone may say " Oh I've never damaged anything" except the part you are hammering on. 

Not sure what Kawasaki was thinking but it is a pain in the rear to get to shock adjuster ring.  To make it easier on yourself do the following:

 

You will need to remove the seat, tank, muffler and remove the lower subframe bolts and just loosen the upper and flip the subframe up.  The tank shrounds interfere with flipping the subframe so I take off the tank to also have a look at things.  Make your adjustments, loosly put things back together check sag, if it is good put back together, if not repeat until it is where you want it.

 

Good luck and buy a shop manual if you don't have one

Alex

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Everytime I hear someone mention using a screwdriver to loosen the lock collar i get mad all over again!  DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!  Use the correct tool or a brass punch.  Using a screwdriver chews it up and you risk damaging something else in the process.  Someone may say " Oh I've never damaged anything" except the part you are hammering on. 

Not sure what Kawasaki was thinking but it is a pain in the rear to get to shock adjuster ring.  To make it easier on yourself do the following:

 

You will need to remove the seat, tank, muffler and remove the lower subframe bolts and just loosen the upper and flip the subframe up.  The tank shrounds interfere with flipping the subframe so I take off the tank to also have a look at things.  Make your adjustments, loosly put things back together check sag, if it is good put back together, if not repeat until it is where you want it.

 

Good luck and buy a shop manual if you don't have one

Alex

That's exactly how I planned on going about adjusting it.

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pre_adj_tool.jpg

 

Rocky Mtn Cycle has a tool that works on the KX450F, but it's still a tight fit. I've had good luck loosening the ring and spinning the spring by hand.

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attachicon.gifpre_adj_tool.jpg

 

Rocky Mtn Cycle has a tool that works on the KX450F, but it's still a tight fit. I've had good luck loosening the ring and spinning the spring by hand.

That tool works great on the 09 but the 13-14 bikes don't have the same room.  If it fits that would be great to know, mine doesn't.

Thanks

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It's crazy how they give you no room to adjust the sag easily. You would think that's something they would engineer around in making these

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That tool works great on the 09 but the 13-14 bikes don't have the same room.  If it fits that would be great to know, mine doesn't.

Thanks

I use it on my 13, but it is tight. I have a Motion Pro with the brass end that will not work.

Edited by mx317

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Before you pull half the bike apart, try the turning the spring, will save you a ton of time if it does spin once the top collar has been loosened.

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Everytime I hear someone mention using a screwdriver to loosen the lock collar i get mad all over again!  DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!  Use the correct tool or a brass punch.  Using a screwdriver chews it up and you risk damaging something else in the process.  Someone may say " Oh I've never damaged anything" except the part you are hammering on. 

Not sure what Kawasaki was thinking but it is a pain in the rear to get to shock adjuster ring.  To make it easier on yourself do the following:

 

You will need to remove the seat, tank, muffler and remove the lower subframe bolts and just loosen the upper and flip the subframe up.  The tank shrounds interfere with flipping the subframe so I take off the tank to also have a look at things.  Make your adjustments, loosly put things back together check sag, if it is good put back together, if not repeat until it is where you want it.

 

Good luck and buy a shop manual if you don't have one

Alex

There's no way in hell I'm removing all the stuff to check sag, that's crazy, at the track I'm not taking all that stuff off. The best "tool" to use is a 1/4" x 10" socket extension and knock the top adjuster ring loose. Like the others have said, once on the stand you should be able to spin the spring. Get it set, tighten that top adjuster and ride. At least with the extension you're not stabbing anything if you miss.

Edited by duhameister

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I destroyed the original shock on my 12.

Worked fine to loosen and turn spring by hand one day and then a week later it was jammed. Stripped shock body.

Bought a takeoff shock AND an xtrig.

Wish I'd just bought an xtrig from the start.

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There's no way in hell I'm removing all the stuff to check sag, that's crazy, at the track I'm not taking all that stuff off. The best "tool" to use is a 1/4" x 10" socket extension and knock the top adjuster ring loose. Like the others have said, once on the stand you should be able to spin the spring. Get it set, tighten that top adjuster and ride. At least with the extension you're not stabbing anything if you miss.

If you are checking your sag you don't take anything apart.  You are right, that is crazy.  We were talking about adjusting.  The simple fact is that kawasaki changed it up so you cannot even see the lock ring to loosen it.  An extension is a great way to go to, if you could get to it.  You should only need to set your sag once too and you should be setting that up before you go to the track and only be make ing fine tuning adjustments at the track.

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If you are checking your sag you don't take anything apart.  You are right, that is crazy.  We were talking about adjusting.  The simple fact is that kawasaki changed it up so you cannot even see the lock ring to loosen it.  An extension is a great way to go to, if you could get to it.  You should only need to set your sag once too and you should be setting that up before you go to the track and only be make ing fine tuning adjustments at the track.

I misspoke, I'm am neither taking anything apart to adjust it or check it. Depending on what and where you're riding and how fast or slow the track is, adjustments might need to be made to stabilize the bike at speed or to help it turn better. But, your right, most guys probably will not mess with it.

 

That being said, for a trail rider once may work, set it and forget it.

 

It is a pain, very tight area to work in, but I'm not taking anything apart to do it.

Edited by duhameister

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Which side to you go in from to attack the lock ring duhameister?

I'm assuming where the nitrogen reservoir is since the airbox boot is completely covering the top of the shock on that side

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Which side to you go in from to attack the lock ring duhameister?

I'm assuming where the nitrogen reservoir is since the airbox boot is completely covering the top of the shock on that side

Right side main spar frame where the kick-start lever sits, basically between the frame and the header. I guess I'm not understanding the major issue here. It's tight, but there's plenty of room to do what you need to do. Again, I do not use a flat time screwdriver, use something with a flat end such as a socket extension, that way if you miss you're not really hurting anything else and not gouging the collar. I've adjusted mine many times and it still looks new.

Edited by duhameister

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Buy a X-trig, problem solved!

So for the people suggesting the xtrig preload ring, do you have one yourself on a 2013-2014 model? I think even using the xtrig there wouldn't be enough space to get to the 8mm bolt. It depends where it positions the adjustment bolt I guess though

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2012 is the same back there

Xtrig is awesome. Makes use of the only space there is. - 1/4" 8mm extension or t handle is like butter.

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Great to know. I'm gonna order one tonight. I like to experiment with my suspension settings a lot, so this thing is gonna save me loads of time and work

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