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Clutch Issue

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Hey guys,

 

I'm still new to these 650L's, but I'm learning.

I'm looking foreword to riding the bike this summer and so far everything has been gone over. The only thing left is the clutch issue. I have the slack out of the cable at the motor casing and the metal lever pretty much points straight across the back of the motor when it's not engaged. At the handlebars, the bike will begin to move foreword when the clutch lever is released to the point of about 3/4's out and seems to be fully released by the time the lever is completely out. The issues are, sometimes when I'm completely stopped and in first gear I can't shift upwards either to neutral or second gear. I have to roll foreword to get it to shift. The second symptom is, when its running and in neutral and I shift down to first to first the bike will lunge foreword a little. 

 

I've played with the adjustment at the handle bars a little with no success. The bike has approx. 4,800 miles on it. So I don't mind putting new clutch parts in, I just wanted a little advice before i dive into it. Should I replace the fiber disks, the metal plates, the springs or all of the above at the same time.

 

Thanks,

 

VM 

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What oil do you have in the engine?

 

That can affect how well the clutch releases.  Most bikes that I've owned didn't release 100%, including several dry-cluch Ducatis.  My KTM is different in that it does seem to release 100%.  The XR650L definitely does not and I don't spend a lot of time worrying about it.  If I can't hit neutral easily at a stop, I roll forward a bit and bump it into neutral.  No big deal.

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Thick oil,warped steels,improperly adjusted cable.all can cause this..

 

Thick oil can cause this when cold,,the thick oil makes the plates drag and cause clunking and hard to find neutral,gets better after warming up and the oil thins..

 

Notching of the clutch basket is noted to do this too..if it bothers you rip it apart,check the clutch basket first..

 

B

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On the last oil change I put in Castro 20-50 part synthetic motor cycle oil from wally world. I did recently pick up some GN4 from the dealer the last time i was there. The shifting seems to get worse when the bike is at full operating temp.

 

And i can still remember  the last time out on a hill when I came to stop, I was going to scout my next line up the hill around the turn, while stopped and I couldn't get it into neutral, with very little wiggle room to roll foreword to play with tranny.  So, out on the trails sometimes it is a big deal.

 

Maybe I'll pull out the clutch disks and inspect the basket and all....

 

VM 

 

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And i can still remember  the last time out on a hill when I came to stop, I was going to scout my next line up the hill around the turn, while stopped and I couldn't get it into neutral, with very little wiggle room to roll foreword to play with tranny.  So, out on the trails sometimes it is a big deal.

One way to get the bike to move forward enough to get into neutral is to let the clutch out enough to move an inch or two, then go for neutral when you pull the clutch back in.  That has worked for me in the past.

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Just to follow up since my last post. I used emery cloth medium grit ppr to sand down the ridges on the basket fingers and I put in new clutch plates and the bike now shifts perfect ! I cant believe the difference. Very glad I did it. 

 

VM

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